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April 29th, 2008, 12:22 | #1 |
Kraken AK-47 Won't fire
My son's Aftermath AK-47 just suddenly stopped firing. He got it for christmas and has just recently started to use it since the weather got nicer. I was watching him do some target shooting and the gun started slowing down and then stopped firing. At first I thought the battery needed to be recharged. We did that and still it wont fire. It almost seems that the trigger is not picking up or releasing, I don't know how it actually works (if its electronic fire). Has anyone ever encountered a problem like this?
Is ther anywhere in Winnipeg I can take it to get someone to look at it? Thanks for your help.
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So far North even the Polar Bears wear Fur Coats! |
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April 29th, 2008, 12:51 | #2 | ||
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April 29th, 2008, 14:04 | #3 |
I've got a tonne of experience with Kraken AK47's
I'm located in Charleswood if you're interested, my gun-teching rates are much lower than almost ever other tech in the city (I'm not a fully trained tech yet, but I've built and serviced 5 AK's in the past 3 months and they're all firing perfectly) I would be happy to take a look at it for you |
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April 29th, 2008, 14:54 | #4 |
No sound what so ever when the trigger is pulled. Its like the battery is dead. I took a voltage measurement after I charged the battery and it was fully charged.
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So far North even the Polar Bears wear Fur Coats! |
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April 29th, 2008, 15:03 | #5 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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Fully charged to about a volt or two over that it's rated for? An unplugged fully charged 8.4V battery will sit at around 9.6V. An almost dead battery will be a bit under it's rating.
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April 29th, 2008, 15:35 | #6 | |
Sounds like maybe a broken electrical connection. If you feel so inclinded, pull out a multimeter, pull the gun apart (or at least make all the connections accessable), and start testing. If you don't feel comfortable doing that PM Amos there, he knows his way around the Kraken.
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May 21st, 2008, 09:40 | #7 |
Amos fixed me up real quick. Don't know yet what he did but I dropped it off and he Pm'd me about 4 hours later saying it was good to go.
Thanks Bud.
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So far North even the Polar Bears wear Fur Coats! |
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May 21st, 2008, 11:07 | #8 |
what was wrong with it? i was thinkin maybe the fuse was blown after reading that
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May 21st, 2008, 20:00 | #9 | |
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Having spare parts around is handy :P The gun was also re-greased and shimmed properly Cyma tends to not do that correctly. |
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May 21st, 2008, 20:15 | #10 |
Nice work! My friend's KWA just stopped firing - sounds like broken connection - and I offered to multimeter it - glad to see I was right that that's the thing to do, but it's still under warranty so he will send it back.
I have been so impressed with my Kraken's performance so far, but do have a bunch of parts I ordered with it based on your upgrade package Amos. I have been deliberating whether I should crack it open and whack them in or just wait till it breaks. I got lucky with piston head seal, hopup, and barrel because it shoots with identical accuracy and range as the KWA M4 (a ~400 fps gun). My only gripe with it is the rate of fire. Will putting in metal bushings, a bearing spring guide, and rewiring for 16 gauge and deans make the rof significantly higher? I do have a large type battery on the way also; i had been using a small one.
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Quote: Originally Posted by ColtFarmer "that would be like celebrating the time your dick got stuck in the garbage disposal." |
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May 21st, 2008, 20:19 | #11 |
Go with a 9.6v battery. Makes a huge differance.
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May 22nd, 2008, 01:30 | #12 | |
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apparently its only superficial and other than the stock piston head it has no effect on the guns performance
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May 22nd, 2008, 03:09 | #13 | |
Formerly Muffinman
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For example: My RPK was a standard TM 16 (or 18, I can't remember)-gauge tamiya connector with fuze, and had a decent fire rate with a 1100 mah BB-Bastard NiMH Mini (converted to deans), internally it boasted a MS100SP, deepfire oilless bushings and systema steel shims, and kept the standard black plastic spring guide. The big RoF increase came when I removed the fuze assembly, made the entire wiring assembly in one piece (AK's have a two piece wiring with tamiya connectors in between) and replaced the entire wiring package with 16 gauge (pretty much the biggest wiring you can fit with the limited amount of space in the gearbox) and replaced the 1100 mah NiMH mini with an Elite 1500 MaH NiMH mini. The ROF increase was enough that it now needs a sector clip to time the tappet plate and feed properly. I'm getting similar RoF performance increase with a Kraken-based AK using a set of Systema Bushings, Guarder SP-90 Spring, Hurricane bearing piston head and bearing spring guide. If anything, just the switch from Tamiyas to Deans is a preformance increase enough, but I do say that the Kraken stock wiring has to go.
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Last edited by Captain Tenneal; May 22nd, 2008 at 03:14.. |
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May 22nd, 2008, 04:52 | #14 | |
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I saw that extra Tamiya in the stock wiring. What made TM's engineers design that into the gun? Ease of changing fusebox plus fuse all in one? I never thought of removing the fuse. Will that endanger the trigger contacts? How much did your SP90 spring contribute to the increase in rof? I am not familiar with its strength. What sort of gains did you make - can you estimate? thanks again, dude, I cannot wait to get it all done.
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Quote: Originally Posted by ColtFarmer "that would be like celebrating the time your dick got stuck in the garbage disposal." |
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May 22nd, 2008, 10:33 | #15 | |
If the fuse and wiring is installed correctly, removing it should never have any positive effect on the gun. A properly installed (and correct) fuse should have a near negligible effect on RoF. I imagine removing the fuse from a clone will have a greater effect than removing one from a brand name, but re-wiring should have the same effect without risking the gun without a fuse.
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