January 3rd, 2008, 22:45 | #1 |
Removing the stupid orange tip thingy
How the hell do I get it off?
Cyma ak. I hate it. (The orange tip) Anything that could be less difficult than tearing it apart, please, let me know! |
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January 3rd, 2008, 22:46 | #2 |
paint it. not to sure i dont have one but maybe just paint it
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January 3rd, 2008, 22:46 | #3 |
Official Crybaby Chairsofter
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Grab your mom/gf nail remover. Works wonder, or paint it.
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January 3rd, 2008, 22:48 | #4 |
I mean, the little rubber cap. It's like a thread protector or something..
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January 3rd, 2008, 22:49 | #5 |
AK Guru
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If its the one that came on my Kraken - red plastic right? PULL. Pull with pliers. If it's threaded, then unscrew (negative threading).
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January 3rd, 2008, 22:50 | #6 |
Lol, it's a kraken alright. WHY WOULD THEY MAKE IT LIKE THIS!? God.
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January 3rd, 2008, 22:51 | #7 |
If it's paint: 4-0 Steel wool and time, followed by a bit of cold-blueing compound.
If not, been said already. |
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January 3rd, 2008, 22:54 | #8 |
I did it. One of the more triumphant moments in my life.
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January 4th, 2008, 02:02 | #9 |
Most of the time its to signify that its a not a real gun and considered a "toy" for lack of a better word. Also, from the best of my knowledge, in the US is the law that all airsoft guns must have a blaze muzzle, or else they can be confiscated, and there may or may not be criminal charges. Correct me if Im wrong though.
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January 4th, 2008, 02:36 | #10 | |
Quote:
In the US, the weapons must be SOLD with the orange tip. Once sold to the owner, it is up to the owner to investigate each individuals state law as to whether or not the orange tip is required. Some states do not require the orange tip on the barrel once sold.
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"A man should remember that he is not born solely for his own sake, but for his country, and for his family." |
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January 4th, 2008, 10:09 | #11 |
formerly Sepulcrum
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I took mine off with pliers a few days ago actually... It was in the middle of a frustrated rage and I decided to use brute force.
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January 4th, 2008, 10:15 | #12 |
i just used some fine grit sand paper. lucky for me the stock ics flashider had a harder coat of black under the orange so it just gave it a nice worn look.
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January 4th, 2008, 10:35 | #13 |
Tys
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I worked on a buddy's USP...he scrubbed with nail polish remover for a long time without making any progress.
I used paint thinner (all metal slide)...which didn't seem to work very well (or at least it was really, really slowly). I ended up shaving it off with a utility knife. I had to use a file and some fine grit wet/dry sandpaper to get into all the grooves, insides and circle parts. I also drifted the front sight off to get into the dovetail since some paint made it's way in there. There was the orange paint and then primer under it and then the black and then metal. Any nicks in the black that I made I touched up with Aluminablack (think that's the right name)..which is like cold bluing solution for aluminum. Some cold bluing solutions on some pot metals will rust orange and bubble. The bluing didn't match exactly right with the factory black paint...so I hit it with flat black Krylon and then a light flat varathane dusting. Looks "plain" now...although the bright orange muzzle would have made it easy to shoot at him and I should have left it on... |
January 4th, 2008, 16:50 | #14 |
Alunimablack?
Kind of unrelated, but can you tell if it creates a harder finish on the outside of the alunimun, or is it just a paintlike product? Is it a mat finish or gloss?
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How do you shoot the devil in the back... I mean what if you miss? |
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January 4th, 2008, 18:32 | #15 |
Tys
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I'm an idiot for thinking it had a product name...it's actually called "Aluminum Black", Brownell's sells it (Bass Pro Carries it). Blue bottle, white lable. Could have sworn it was called something else before....
It "stains" the metal black. There's no layer thickness to it (i.e. if your piece is painted and you have a chip in it, you'll still see the break line between the paint and the darkened section). In most cases, it comes out as "shiny"/"glossy" as the surface that it is applied to (i.e. buff the crap out of the piece and it will be shiny after applying this stuff, leave scratches in it and you'll still see scratches). The darkness of the black will depend on the metalurgic properties/composition of the metal part. I've noticed that some AEG parts don't darken as much as others, while other parts look great. Brownells also makes a cold blueing solution for steel. That works on most non-steel parts as well, but may "rust" a bit if left on too long. It's cheap and you litterally use a damp q-tip at a time (unless you're going to strip and refinish an entire body) ****edit**** so far as hardness..last longer than paint and doesn't chip. wears like anodizing, but not as hard as factory plated stuff (in my opinion). Hope that helps, Tys |
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