How the heck do you calibrate an Aimpoint with a claw mount on a MP5?

dtemplar · May 17th, 2006, 19:12

Hi Guys,

I have a TM MP5, a TM HK Claw Mount, and a Guarder Aimpoint Red dot scope. I managed to put them together and tried calibrating so that red dot matches what I'm shooting but I'm having no luck. The shots are nowhere near the laser dot, they're usually an inch or more below the dot. I'm firing at 25 feet away to a paper target then I moved closer so I can see better, but that didn't changed anything. I tried tinkering with the dials on the scope as per the instruction manual I got from the OFFICIAL Aimpoint site but still am having no luck: the laser just doesn't go all the way down.

I'm suspecting scope is mounted too high because of the claw mount and the mount rings, but I've seen a lot of guys on here have or recommended the claw mount + RDS on a MP5...so how'd they did it? Any help would be great. Thanks!

Here's a pic of how I mounted it:
http://www.dtemplar.org/ctu/ctu03.jpg

ToRN · May 17th, 2006, 19:15

The type of mount you have has no bearing on the adjustment.

You have to remember that this is airsoft, not R/S, so you can't expect too much accuracy out of your scopes and sights.

yanhchan · May 17th, 2006, 19:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtemplar

Hi Guys,

I have a TM MP5, a TM HK Claw Mount, and a Guarder Aimpoint Red dot scope. I managed to put them together and tried calibrating so that red dot matches what I'm shooting but I'm having no luck. The shots are nowhere near the laser dot, they're usually an inch or more below the dot. I'm firing at 25 feet away to a paper target then I moved closer so I can see better, but that didn't changed anything. I tried tinkering with the dials on the scope as per the instruction manual I got from the OFFICIAL Aimpoint site but still am having no luck: the laser just doesn't go all the way down.

I'm suspecting scope is mounted too high because of the claw mount and the mount rings, but I've seen a lot of guys on here have or recommended the claw mount + RDS on a MP5...so how'd they did it? Any help would be great. Thanks!

Here's a pic of how I mounted it:
http://www.dtemplar.org/ctu/ctu03.jpg

I had the same problem and sadly...an inch or so is pretty good!

CDN_Stalker · May 17th, 2006, 19:31

Safe to assume you took the dust covers off the adjustment screws? Sounds kinda dumb, but people have tried tweaking the dust covers before not knowing there were adjustment screws underneath.

Having gotten that out of the way, I have almost the same RDS on my MP5, but a low profile rail, and get easy full auto groups at point of aim 30ft away. My targets tend to have 6 2" cirlces on them, and I always make a ragged hole in each. And I've put a quick burst on guys 150ft away without holding off. One thing to consider is parallax, meaning the higher you mount the scope the more off the scope will be. If you set it for 25ft, then you will hit higher at 100ft. I guess the easiest way to describe it is to consider a long flat X. One line is the trajectory of the projectile, the other higher one (to start off with) is the line of the scope. The closer to the barrel you put the scope, the flatter the X becomes, and the more accurate it'll be at any given range without adjustment. The higher you mount the scope, the fatter the X becomes, so that in between the distance of zero you will hit low, and past the zeroing distance yo uwill hit high.

Ghost Snake · May 17th, 2006, 19:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

One thing to consider is parallax, meaning the higher you mount the scope the more off the scope will be. If you set it for 25ft, then you will hit higher at 100ft. I guess the easiest way to describe it is to consider a long flat X. One line is the trajectory of the projectile, the other higher one (to start off with) is the line of the scope. The closer to the barrel you put the scope, the flatter the X becomes, and the more accurate it'll be at any given range without adjustment. The higher you mount the scope, the fatter the X becomes, so that in between the distance of zero you will hit low, and past the zeroing distance yo uwill hit high.

Ummm, thats not parallax. Parallax is when you move your head side to side, up down, whatever, and the crosshairs/dot change their position on the target. Even though the scope isnt moving at all, moving your head makes the crosshairs change position. A parallax free scope/sight will not change position if your eyes arent lined up perfectly.

CDN_Stalker · May 17th, 2006, 19:43

Seen it as both, is why I said the word. Know what parallax is for magnified scopes . But for what I describe it's true, even if the wrong word had been used. Read up on parallax a couple times, seems to be more than what you describe, and have seen others make the same mistake as I did.

ANYWAYS, scope too high not a good thing. How's that? :lol:

Ghost Snake · May 17th, 2006, 20:07

Parallax means the same thing, whether the scope is magnified or not. Its the misalignment of your eye on the axis of the scope, causing the crosshairs to change target position. Thats the basic theory anyway. There isn't really any more to it, just a longer answer, and maybe why/how it works. But I wont get into that. No worries though, parallax is probably the most incorrectly used term when talking about scopes.

But yes, you were right about the "X" trajectory thing. Its just not parallax. :cheers:

Anyway, my suggestion to your problem. Adjusting the elevation dial will move your dot lower, to your point of impact. However, if adjusting the dial just doesn't lower the dot anymore, then it may be maxed out. If it's maxed out though, you should know because the dial usually wont turn any more. I'm kind of thinking you maybe didnt take the caps off, as Stalker suggested. If that is not the case though, and the dot just wont go further down, you may need to shim the rear of your mount. This will tilt the scope forward, therefore lowering the dot.

ILLusion · May 17th, 2006, 20:13

Ghost Snake, Stalker is describing parallax.

Parallax is simply the displacement of an object due to changes in position of the observed view.

Sight parallax is what you are describing, where the dot changes as you move your head around.

Shot parallax is what CDN_Stalker is describing, where the shot changes as the sight is higher or lower (or to the left or to the right if you have a really messed up mounting system) to the axis of the barrel.

CDN_Stalker · May 17th, 2006, 20:15

Cool, thanks Ghost.

I'll toss in, where the BBs hit is where you want to move the dot to. 1" left and 1" down, you move a couple clicks right and a couple clicks up. Not like other sighting systems (archery comes to mind) where you move the sight in the opposite direction of where you want your arrows to land (down to impact higher, left to impact more to the right).

Ghost Snake · May 17th, 2006, 20:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Ghost Snake, Stalker is describing parallax.

Parallax is simply the displacement of an object due to changes in position of the observed view.

Sight parallax is what you are describing, where the dot changes as you move your head around.

Shot parallax is what CDN_Stalker is describing, where the shot changes as the sight is higher or lower (or to the left or to the right if you have a really messed up mounting system) to the axis of the barrel.

Are you sure that that's actually parallax? Google turned up nothing for "shot parallax", and all the definitions I could find for parallax were about what I described. The wikipedia definition is "apparent motion of an object against a distant background because of a perspective shift".

firemachine69 · May 17th, 2006, 20:44

A good red dot shouldn't have parallax.

CDN_Stalker · May 17th, 2006, 20:49

Oh my head!!!! Too much info, require more beer to numb and process!!!

Assume parallax has many meanings, and each specific case requires a more descriptive word to separate it from others? And here I thought parallax meant the differentce in focus between crosshair clarity and image clarity at different zoom settings, aka. the 3.9x40 scope on my M700, the cross hairs get out of focus at 30ft when on zoom higher than 5x, but th escope onmy M24, with it's parallax adjust at the objective end of the scope, I can use 9x at 30ft with the 10yd setting and get clarity on both. Anyways, I read and understood it as the error in combined focus of two different objects (crosshairs and target) increasing as the zoom goes higher, based on distance.

Anyways, am waiting to hear from the thread starter if any of this info is useful or not for his situation.

EDIT!!!!

Since Greylocks posted after this, am editting it to place Kokanee's genius picture in the right place.

:lol:

Greylocks · May 17th, 2006, 21:09

Install mount properly.
Install sight on mount properly.
Rest gun on solid surface.
Shoot several rounds with hopup properly set.
Adjust red dot to be in center of area where all the ammo went.

Sights for real guns work poorly for airsoft ballistics.
Sights for airsoft tend to be crappy optics.

MadMax · May 17th, 2006, 21:44

At 25' you will not be able to get a scope to zero. The conical range of adjustment is not large enough to include the 2.5" of distance between the centre of your RDS and the centre of your barrel. Besides, even if you did manage to zero your scope it'd be to high for usual airsoft range (you don't fight at 8 yards all that much).

If you really want to zero your scope, stuff some shim material under the rear end of your scope mount to pitch it forward.

Greylocks · May 17th, 2006, 21:58

As I had a very inquisitive python wrapped around one hand, I forgot to add; have an available range of about 100 feet so you can ensure the hopup (and sight) are fine.
What MadMax pointed out is perfectly correct. 25 feet wont work.

If 25 feet is the range you normally shoot at, you dont need sights.

Home	Forums	Register	Gallery	FAQ	Calendar
Retailers	Community	News/Info	International Retailers	IRC	Today's Posts

British Columbia	Alberta
BCAC	EAR
Op-For	JOC
Northern Arms Airsoft	Skunkworx Airsoft
Airsoft Kelowna	RAAT
Prince George Airsoft	Manitoba
Saskatchewan	MAA
SK Airsoft	Ontario
PDW	Airsoft Ottawa
South Sask Mercs	Snow Dragons
Quebec	1st Ranger Platoon
PQAC	Wolfpack Tactical
1st Pathfinders Regiment	TTAC3
Quebec Airsoft
MTX Airsoft	Atlantic
FAQc	Atlantic Airsoft

May 17th, 2006, 19:12	#1
dtemplar Trader rating Join Date: May 2006 Location: vancouver.bc.ca	How the heck do you calibrate an Aimpoint with a claw mount on a MP5? Hi Guys, I have a TM MP5, a TM HK Claw Mount, and a Guarder Aimpoint Red dot scope. I managed to put them together and tried calibrating so that red dot matches what I'm shooting but I'm having no luck. The shots are nowhere near the laser dot, they're usually an inch or more below the dot. I'm firing at 25 feet away to a paper target then I moved closer so I can see better, but that didn't changed anything. I tried tinkering with the dials on the scope as per the instruction manual I got from the OFFICIAL Aimpoint site but still am having no luck: the laser just doesn't go all the way down. I'm suspecting scope is mounted too high because of the claw mount and the mount rings, but I've seen a lot of guys on here have or recommended the claw mount + RDS on a MP5...so how'd they did it? Any help would be great. Thanks! Here's a pic of how I mounted it: http://www.dtemplar.org/ctu/ctu03.jpg

May 17th, 2006, 19:31	#4
CDN_Stalker Official ASC Bladesmith Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ont.	Safe to assume you took the dust covers off the adjustment screws? Sounds kinda dumb, but people have tried tweaking the dust covers before not knowing there were adjustment screws underneath. Having gotten that out of the way, I have almost the same RDS on my MP5, but a low profile rail, and get easy full auto groups at point of aim 30ft away. My targets tend to have 6 2" cirlces on them, and I always make a ragged hole in each. And I've put a quick burst on guys 150ft away without holding off. One thing to consider is parallax, meaning the higher you mount the scope the more off the scope will be. If you set it for 25ft, then you will hit higher at 100ft. I guess the easiest way to describe it is to consider a long flat X. One line is the trajectory of the projectile, the other higher one (to start off with) is the line of the scope. The closer to the barrel you put the scope, the flatter the X becomes, and the more accurate it'll be at any given range without adjustment. The higher you mount the scope, the fatter the X becomes, so that in between the distance of zero you will hit low, and past the zeroing distance yo uwill hit high. __________________ STKR Knives http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/STK...17036668380871

May 17th, 2006, 19:43	#6
CDN_Stalker Official ASC Bladesmith Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ont.	Seen it as both, is why I said the word. Know what parallax is for magnified scopes . But for what I describe it's true, even if the wrong word had been used. Read up on parallax a couple times, seems to be more than what you describe, and have seen others make the same mistake as I did. ANYWAYS, scope too high not a good thing. How's that? :lol: __________________ STKR Knives http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/STK...17036668380871

May 17th, 2006, 20:07	#7
Ghost Snake Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Edmonton	Parallax means the same thing, whether the scope is magnified or not. Its the misalignment of your eye on the axis of the scope, causing the crosshairs to change target position. Thats the basic theory anyway. There isn't really any more to it, just a longer answer, and maybe why/how it works. But I wont get into that. No worries though, parallax is probably the most incorrectly used term when talking about scopes. But yes, you were right about the "X" trajectory thing. Its just not parallax. :cheers: Anyway, my suggestion to your problem. Adjusting the elevation dial will move your dot lower, to your point of impact. However, if adjusting the dial just doesn't lower the dot anymore, then it may be maxed out. If it's maxed out though, you should know because the dial usually wont turn any more. I'm kind of thinking you maybe didnt take the caps off, as Stalker suggested. If that is not the case though, and the dot just wont go further down, you may need to shim the rear of your mount. This will tilt the scope forward, therefore lowering the dot. __________________

May 17th, 2006, 20:13	#8
ILLusion GBB Whisperer Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Toronto	Ghost Snake, Stalker is describing parallax. Parallax is simply the displacement of an object due to changes in position of the observed view. Sight parallax is what you are describing, where the dot changes as you move your head around. Shot parallax is what CDN_Stalker is describing, where the shot changes as the sight is higher or lower (or to the left or to the right if you have a really messed up mounting system) to the axis of the barrel. __________________ *Advanced Airsoft Armaments and Enhancements* Quick to the gun, sure of your grip. Quick to the threat, sure of your shot. Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas Accuracy, Power, Speed

May 17th, 2006, 20:15	#9
CDN_Stalker Official ASC Bladesmith Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ont.	Cool, thanks Ghost. I'll toss in, where the BBs hit is where you want to move the dot to. 1" left and 1" down, you move a couple clicks right and a couple clicks up. Not like other sighting systems (archery comes to mind) where you move the sight in the opposite direction of where you want your arrows to land (down to impact higher, left to impact more to the right). __________________ STKR Knives http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/STK...17036668380871

May 17th, 2006, 20:49	#12
CDN_Stalker Official ASC Bladesmith Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ont.	Oh my head!!!! Too much info, require more beer to numb and process!!! Assume parallax has many meanings, and each specific case requires a more descriptive word to separate it from others? And here I thought parallax meant the differentce in focus between crosshair clarity and image clarity at different zoom settings, aka. the 3.9x40 scope on my M700, the cross hairs get out of focus at 30ft when on zoom higher than 5x, but th escope onmy M24, with it's parallax adjust at the objective end of the scope, I can use 9x at 30ft with the 10yd setting and get clarity on both. Anyways, I read and understood it as the error in combined focus of two different objects (crosshairs and target) increasing as the zoom goes higher, based on distance. Anyways, am waiting to hear from the thread starter if any of this info is useful or not for his situation. EDIT!!!! Since Greylocks posted after this, am editting it to place Kokanee's genius picture in the right place. :lol: __________________ STKR Knives http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/STK...17036668380871

May 17th, 2006, 21:09	#13
Greylocks Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Gatineau, Quebec (Near Ottawa)	Install mount properly. Install sight on mount properly. Rest gun on solid surface. Shoot several rounds with hopup properly set. Adjust red dot to be in center of area where all the ammo went. Sights for real guns work poorly for airsoft ballistics. Sights for airsoft tend to be crappy optics.

May 17th, 2006, 21:44	#14
MadMax Delierious Designer of Dastardly Detonations Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: in the dark recesses of some metal chip filled machine shop	At 25' you will not be able to get a scope to zero. The conical range of adjustment is not large enough to include the 2.5" of distance between the centre of your RDS and the centre of your barrel. Besides, even if you did manage to zero your scope it'd be to high for usual airsoft range (you don't fight at 8 yards all that much). If you really want to zero your scope, stuff some shim material under the rear end of your scope mount to pitch it forward. __________________ Want nearly free GBB gas?

May 17th, 2006, 21:58	#15
Greylocks Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Gatineau, Quebec (Near Ottawa)	As I had a very inquisitive python wrapped around one hand, I forgot to add; have an available range of about 100 feet so you can ensure the hopup (and sight) are fine. What MadMax pointed out is perfectly correct. 25 feet wont work. If 25 feet is the range you normally shoot at, you dont need sights.

How the heck do you calibrate an Aimpoint with a claw mount on a MP5?

Accessories Discussion