CA36K - Guide & Review ( 100 pics )

[Raygis LasVegas]

G36KE-V... The weapon system from G&P and Classic Army

“K” = carbine version of the G36 full length rifle.
“E” = export sight... no RDS or rail available above the magnified optic.
“V” = the rejected stock tested by the Norwegians.

 CA’s glass-fiber body is flat black with a matte texture.
 Compared to a Marui G36C, CA is much more realistic looking. In general, some parts of Marui’s G36C is grey and some are black and shiney.



 Long rails made by Guarder. 13 ribbed slots in total.
 Flash supressor is threaded 14 mm negative. No grub screw to hold it tight. It is kept on by torque.
 Outer barrel is of different texture than the flash supressor. I preferred it to be the same texture.
 When the flash supressor is struck, it acts as a tuning fork. My flash supressor tunes to an “A-note”.
 Handguard is very well made. A mini 9.6V 1100 battery would be able to fit inside.



 Bolt color is flat black. FYI, Marui’s G36C is grey.
 Lower portion of the bolt is metal.
 Upper portion ( ie: handle part ) is plastic.
 Carry handle can flex if enough torque is applied. The material used will allow the handle to “bend” and not crack.
 When the handle is twisted, the scope still retain’s it’s zero.
 The scope’s windage and elevation adjustment springs should be changed to stronger ones. The stock springs don’t push the scope enough to allow full up/down & left/right adjustments.
 Magwell is very well made. No complaints here.
 Trigger guard can be flexed. Again, the glass-fibre won’t allow the part to crack, but it will allow it to flex.
 Trigger is constructed of metal.
 Magazine release lever is made from plastic.



 Stock hinge joint is sturdy. The hinge is metal and is covered by glass-fibre.
 Rear scope eye piece is made from rubber.
 The screw and tab set that secure the carry handle is made from metal.
 Pistol grip is firm. It has a motor height adjustment screw and provides precise height tuning for minimal motor noise.



 G&P V-stock is slightly lighter in color than the CA36KE’s body
 V-stock’s texture is smother compared to the speckled texture of the CA36KE.
 Material used for the stock is more rigid than CA’s glass-fibre. Flex is present, but it is extremely difficult to warp the stock.

Miscellaneous Left Side Pictures

Left side pictures - Handguard and Rails



Left side pictures - Reciever and Trademarks



Left side pictures - Reciever and Trademarks



Left side pictures - G&P V-stock



 Flash supressor forks can be flexed inwards if you apply ridiculous amount of force.
 Handguard/Barrel stabilizer plate must be kept to prevent barrel flex.
 Without the stabilizer plate, the handguard WILL wobble... I know someone who removed theirs.



 Turn the flash supressor clockwise to loosen.
 I torqued my flash supressor on tightly to the outer barrel. So when I loosen the flash supressor, the outer barrel will loosen as well.



Removing flash supressor



 Flash supressor and outer barrel removed.
 Brass inner barrel exposed.



 Attempting to push out handguard retaining pin.
 The pin has a rubber o-ring at the end to prevent accidental removal from shaking the weapon.
 The handguard retaining pin must be removed in order for the handguard to slide off the weapon.



 Removing handguard retaining pin.
 The rubber o-ring can be seen in this photo.



 Attempting to slide off the handguard.


 Sliding off handguard.



 With the handguard off, the front end is exposed.
 I used tape to shim off the extra play between the inner barrel and gas/piston assembly.



 The entire front end is made from metal. This is the best feature of the CA36 series.
 FYI, the Marui G36C and Star G36 series both have plastic front ends.



 Here you can see the underside of the gas/piston assembly.
 At the end of the assembly, the you can see the tape I used to shim the inner barrel.



 Metal Gas/Piston assembly of a CA36KE.
 The threading shown here is 14mm negative.
 I used to own a Marui G36C... this part was plastic and it was the most fragile part of the gun.
 FYI, if you own a plastic front end, the best upgrade you should do is either get a CA metal counter part, or buy the G&G G36 outer barrel set. G&G’s version of the G36 front set is the most realistic looking piece out there today.



 Pictured here is the bolt “locked” to the rear.
 The bolt can be locked to the rear by sliding the bolt handle region under the top cut-away/trench of the upper reciever.
 The hop-up can easily be adjusted. It’s actually too easy for my liking. A slight nudge can mess up your settings.
 Top part of the bolt is plastic. The lower part exposed through the ejection port is metal.



 Inside the magazine well.
 Nothing to rant about here.



 The pictogram markings are pasted on. I wished they were engraved on like it is on the ICS MP5 series.
 There are audible clicks when you change firing modes. However, you can barely feel the different settings. If you were deaf, you’d have to visually inspect your firing mode before shooting.
 From my experience, metal body Armalites have a much better feeling selector switch than the G36. Even my former Marui G36C had a lame feeling selector switch.



 The Classic Army trademarks are engraved deeply.


 Another shot at the CA trademarks.


 G&P’s V-stock is slightly smoother in texture than CA’s glass-fibre.


 Underside of the V-stock.
 The rubber recoil end is much harder than Marui’s G36C recoil pad.


 Other side of the V-stock.



 V-stock extended to it’s longest position.
 Unlike Armalite retractable stocks, the V-stock will slide off it’s “buffer tube” as long as the lever is held down.
 If you plan to attach a 1-point sling on the end of the stock, you could drop the weapon if the gun is not supported and the stock’s lever is held down. I once had a situation like that with my M4A1 during a game. With my hands free and reaching for my pistol, I set my M4A1 on to the side. But coincidentally, a piece of my webbing caught onto the slither stock’s lever and extended the stock. The gun started to head towards the ground barrel first. Had the M4 not have the extending stock limiter, my gun would’ve fell for sure.



 There is plenty of room inside the V-stock for a large 9.6V 3000mah battery.



 Inside my V-stock I have a set of allen keys necessary for the takedown of my gun.
 The two keys are a 2.5mm and a 3mm.
 I used a piece of padding to stop the allen keys and the battery from rattling.


 Large 8.4V 3000mah NiMH battery inside the V-stock.



 The tools and padding stored inside the stock.
 The two keys are a 2.5mm and a 3mm.



 If you plan on making a custom battery and also have the stock retain it’s folding characteristic, you best make sure to accommodate the protruding brass deflector.



 The G&P V-stock includes a set of Deans connectors.
 This was the first time I used Deans connectors and I am very impressed with them. They are easier to solder and de-solder than normal Tamiya connectors. Even connecting and disconnecting is easier with Deans.



 With the battery removed, you can see the large storage space.



 4 positions on the retractable stock
 I’m sure you can modify the stock for more positions by drilling the appropriate holes.



 Detail view of the stock holes.



 To remove the magwell, you must first remove the following 2.5mm allen screw head.



 Allen screw head removed.



 Poke out the screw with the allen key



 Rotate the magwell to remove it from the upper reciever.



 Magwell removed to expose the hop-up unit, air nozzle, and gearbox.
 The gearbox wires are nicely tucked away.
 My gearbox was re-wired to the rear since I’m using the V-stock. More detail on this latter...



 To separate the lower receiver from the upper, you must remove this 3mm allen screw.



 Rotate the lower assembly downwards to separate it from the upper.



 Underside view of the upper receiver.
 The upper receiver’s roof is a metal backbone that supports the front end and prevents flex.
 The metal backbone extends all the way to the rear to form the folding stock’s hinge.



 CA36KE-V field stripped - well almost - I was too lazy to remove the carry handle.

Miscellaneous Pictures

 Version 3 gearbox re-wired to the rear.
 This configuration is best used with the V-stock.



 Another pic of the rewiring job.



 Seam lines are visible, but they don’t bother me too much.



 It might seem like there’s plenty of room inside the handguard - but in reality, you can only fit a mini 9.6V 1100 battery.
 Custom batteries are available, but they are not worth the hassle. I prefer to use a large battery stored in the stock.



 Battery disconnected



 To avoid stretching, the stock must not be folded over 90 degrees when the battery wires are connected.
 The Deans connectors have a built-in safety such that if the wires are stretched, the connectors would simply slide off and disengage from each other. I haven’t proven this by folding my stock quickly, but I can guess this type of connection is better than using Tamiya’s.



 Here’s a pic showing the wires connected and stretched.



 The CA hi-cap magazine is a perfect performer. Never once did it fail to feed. The only problem I have is that is squeaks when force is applied.
 If you’re the type of player that grabs onto the magwell of a rifle when shouldering, you’ll encounter many squeaks from this magazine.
 FYI, MAG G36 100 round mid-caps do not squeak at all!



 Magazine trademarks.



 Another gripe I have with the G36 magazine design is the size of the trap door. I find this opening to be too small and prone to spillage of BBs.



Birds eye view of the hi-cap’s guts.

CA36K’s Internals

 To get to the bare gearbox, you must first remove it from the lower receiver frame.



 From top to bottom: motor plate retaining screw 1, motor height adjustment screw (allen 1.5mm), motor frame/cage retaining screw, motor plate retaining screw 2.



 Begin by removing the largest Phillips screw (motor frame/cage retaining screw)



 Motor frame retaining screw removed.



 Punch out the gearbox retaining pin. I used my 2.5mm allen screw.



 Gearbox retaining pin punched out.



 Set the firing selector switch to the position middle of semi auto and full auto.



 Ensure the selector switch notch is clear of the selector plate.
 Gently wiggle the gearbox loose from the lower receiver frame.



 Gently wiggle the gearbox loose from the lower receiver frame.



 Lower receiver frame separated from the gearbox

Miscellaneous Pictures of the Lower Receiver Frame

The Gearbox

 Left side.



 Right side.



 Gearbox opened for dissection.
 CA's grease job was just sufficient for the gearbox's function.
 The shim job was also done well out of the box.
 The piston head and cylinder seal was excellent.
 The cylinder head and air nozzle seal wasn't the best -- but I did a modification to rectify the problem... more on this later.
 Note: The cylinder pictured is from Systema. The stock CA cylinder is of brass-type similar to those found in Marui's M4A1.



 CA spring guide.



 CA yellow piston head and piston.



 The first time I examined the piston, the last tooth was in perfect condition. At this time, I never fired the gun. After around 400 shots, the piston’s last tooth quickly wore down as pictured. I was afraid to use CA’s piston but I figured I might as well break it before I replace it.
 After another grueling 2000 rounds, I inspected the piston once again. To my amazement, the piston did not continue wear down. This proves the piston has a default amount of wear to be broken into. After the piston has been warmed up, any additional wear would only appear after the gun has been well used.
 I have full confidence in the CA yellow piston despite the initial wearing of the large tooth.



 CA air nozzle.
 Note: The air nozzle can only be inserted into the cylinder head in one way.



 CA cylinder head.
 This pic shows the shim job I did using skotch tape. The tape effectively seals up the gap in between the air nozzle and brass portion of the cylinder head. I’ve since fired over 2000 rounds and the skotch tape has not failed.



 CA G36 tappet plate.



 CA Gearset.
 I’ve seen and inspected older CA gears from their infamous M4A1 series. In comparison to these, I must say these gears appear to be better. Only time will tell if these gears will stand up to abuse. So far, with these gears, the mechbox runs very smooth. I’ve tried hi-torque gears in the CA36K’s gearbox before. Although the gun functions, the action was very loud and mechanical.
 These gears look great, they function great - let’s hope they also last a great amount of time.



 Here’s the spring guide keeping the spring in position.

G36 carry handle scope

 After removing the screws and tabs that secure the carry handle, slide the handle back to remove it from the upper receiver.



 Sliding the carry handle scope.



 Carry handle scope with screws & tabs removed.



 Rear - Underside of carry handle scope.



 Front - Underside of carry handle scope.



 Business end.



 Fixed sights
 These sights are molded onto the carry handle. They are very low in profile and is useless in low-light conditions.



 Aiming at the power outlet.



 In scope view.



 The magnification is 1.5x .
 The windage and elevation turrents are easy to adjust. However is comprises of only a grub screw. There isn't any audible/physical clicks when the grub screw is turned.
 This power is not bad during day use. However the combination of small lenses, short eye relief, and non-illuminated reticule makes this scope difficult to aim and use under pressure.



 In scope view.

Scope's Windage & Elevation spring modification



LEGEND




 Stock spring being compressed to it’s minimum state.
 There are too many coils and it’s preventing the monocular from going lower.
 Zeroing the scope, in regards to down and right, are limited.



 Stock spring exerting outwards to it’s full length.
 This is the absolute maximum range of movement.
 Zeroing the scope, in regards to up and left, are limited.



 Windage & Elevation screws being loosen further.
 The stock spring can not push the monocular any higher and to the left.
 Zeroing the scope, in regards to up and left, are limited.



Modification



 Replace the single spring with two separate springs.
 The replacement springs must have a higher tension strength and have less coils.
 Here it shows the extended range of movement when zeroing down and right.
 Zeroing the scope, in regards to down and right, are maximized.



 Windage & Elevation screws are loosened.
 The springs are able to push the monocular and follow the adjustment screws.
 Zeroing the scope, in regards to up and left, are maximized.

Final Verdict

Pros

 Solid gun.
 Excellent weight distribution (especially with a battery in the stock).
 Smooth CA mechbox function.
 Able to store all kinds of batteries for different power settings.
 Metal front end.
 Comes with a scope as standard kit.
 Great feeling glass-fibre material.
 Very easy to disassemble into the gearbox ( 4.5 mins ).
 Cheap mags are available ( MAG G36 100 rounds ).


Cons

 Front end not as solid as a full metal Armalite.
 Must purchase a G&P V-stock to utilize the weapon’s full potential.
 G&P’s V-stock doesn’t match CA’s color and texture perfectly.
 Hard to use scope ( short eye relief, small lenses, non-luminated reticule ).
 Scope’s windage and elevation spring must be changed to tougher springs.
 Flash supressor not the same texture as outer barrel.
 Slight flex in CA’s glass-fibre construction.
 Bolt is not full metal.
 Hard to use fixed external sights.

END OF REVIEW

Contact info: Tang_Raymond@yahoo.com
Gun Doctor Services: $45 for mechbox upgrades. Repair costs may vary.

[SHaKaL]

WOW!!!

One of the best review i have ever seen!

Thanks for the tips

[CoNtEmPt]

Great Review
Nicely done. Im guessing it took a few hours to complete that monster post.
Interesting Pros and Cons.
Thanks for the info.

[Mantelope]

Great review, I appreciate the extensive photo analysis. From what I can gather, the only third-party parts you bought were the rails and the stock... am I correct?

[dbairsoftmedia]

G36 Serie from classic army is awesome i got the CA36C and pleased with it!!! Awesome review dude!!!

[The Saint]

Best CA36 review I've seen other than Arnie's review on the C. :tup:

Regarding the scope, you might consider adding this little bit in:

The CA36's handle scope consists of a monocular suspended within the handle housing by rubber braces. The flex and stretchability of the rubber bracing is what allows the scope to be zeroed through the use of adjustment screws located on the right side and top of the scope handle. However, the nature of the scope's design means that it is inherently impossible to adjust the scope towards the right. The horizontal adjustment screw can only push the monocular tube left, it cannot pull it towards the right. In order to zero the scope towards the right, what one has to do is to dig their nails around the front of the monocular tube (careful not to touch the lens) and pull towards the right while tightening the elevation adjustment screw downwards, which will lock the tube in place. This fix shouldn't affect the zeroing process, since the scope tends to shoot quite high anyways.

[Raygis LasVegas]

Originally Posted by The Saint

The flex and stretchability of the rubber bracing is what allows the scope to be zeroed through the use of adjustment screws located on the right side and top of the scope handle.

Hi, I'm sorry that is incorrect. When the rubber bracing is removed, you'll see a single spring mounted on an angle. This spring exerts itself onto the monocular. It is intended to push the scope diagonally upwards.

I've updated my review and included diagrams of the scope's internals and modifications that can be done.

[Shadow-Hunter]

Realy nice Review!!!!!
But i have to say something
K is not for Carbine!!
K is in german "Kurz" and it means short version of the G36
K=Kurz=short


Nice work!!!

[The Saint]

Originally Posted by Raygis LasVegas

Hi, I'm sorry that is incorrect. When the rubber bracing is removed, you'll see a single spring mounted on an angle. This spring exerts itself onto the monocular. It is intended to push the scope diagonally upwards.

I've updated my review and included diagrams of the scope's internals and modifications that can be done.

I stand corrected, though in practice I've found that horizontal adjustment on my scope required some convincing.

[supersized]

upon reading this review and the photos provided, I feel like I can take apart my own gun and fiddle around with it without worries of not being able to put it back together again.

Thanks!

[skewed]

Very extensive, informative and well written. Thanks a bundle!

[Mig1]

I hate for this to be my first post here, but V isn't for the stock. It is for the top rail on the Norwegian version (the reciever is stamped KV).

[Armedpacifist]

Raygis as I told you in person the other day, I thought your review of the CA G36 to be most informative and I will definitely pick up one for myself.

[bean]

Why did you have to quote that.

[Dozer_01]

Extremely informative. You put alot into this and deserve alot of credit. Hats off to you man!