What lube different from silicone for a Gas Pistol?

[kar120c]

I think that sometimes silicon lube used in the Gas Pistols/Guns is not always suitable for all parts of the gun but we use it because it is sears friendly.
Anyone knows other kind of lube with more metal to metal lubing capability but o-rings compatible?

[Danke]

Graphite powder.

[Ricochet]

I've tried many things, but I keep coming back to the standard silicone lube. One of the issues you'll find is that it needs to be the correct viscosity. I've purchased many "appropriate" lubricants for metal on metal, and that won't eat plastic parts, but they are a fluid, so they don't work properly. Also greas or most oil products are too thick.

Here's the problem in a nutshell: the lubricant has to be safe for plastics and rubbers, adequate for metal on metal, not too thick and not too much like a fluid, and you have to be able to clean it out and reapply. Silicone based, mid viscosity oil is very good at this.

If you have quality gun you can keep it going for ten years without it needing fixes or anything. You may end up needing a seal here, or a piston piece there, but your metal parts should last you.

To save metal parts you can perform a cleaning. Grime, dirt and dust will eventually start wearing metal parts out. To clean it you can buy a silicone based fluid in a pressurized can. It's yellow and sold at Canadian Tire, I think it's made by Gunk or something. Anyways, I dissemble the gun into a few components, such as the frame, the slide, the barrel assembly and the recoil assembly. I thoroughly spray out each one, making certain to get into all of the mechanisms, moving parts, etc. then I sit them in a plastic or Tupperware container upright so they can drain. I let them drain for at least an hour. After that's done I check the fluid in the bottom of the container. If it's really dirty I re-spray the parts again and repeat. Once clean-ish fluid is leaking out of the gun I wipe up the parts with paper towels and q-tips thoroughly. You want to remove as much of the fluid as you reasonably can. The barrel and hop-up I gently wipe out with a q-tip or two, same as the piston and hammer mechanisms. After the gun has been cleaned and wiped let it dry a bit. I then apply a few drops of silicone oil into hammer mechanism, trigger mechanism and piston, which I then move and function to work it in. I use green gas to oil the slide and hop-up because it'll spray right out of the magazine and you don't want to drown them. After its all together, put a magazine through it. Excess oil will spray out of the gun. At this point, wipe it all down again, but you don't have to disassemble it. Wipe out the magwell as well.

And you're done.

[kar120c]

Not easy to find mid viscosity silicone and the Airsoft products are of very very fluid

Originally Posted by Ricochet

I've tried many things, but I keep coming back to the standard silicone lube. One of the issues you'll find is that it needs to be the correct viscosity. I've purchased many "appropriate" lubricants for metal on metal, and that won't eat plastic parts, but they are a fluid, so they don't work properly. Also greas or most oil products are too thick.

Here's the problem in a nutshell: the lubricant has to be safe for plastics and rubbers, adequate for metal on metal, not too thick and not too much like a fluid, and you have to be able to clean it out and reapply. Silicone based, mid viscosity oil is very good at this.

If you have quality gun you can keep it going for ten years without it needing fixes or anything. You may end up needing a seal here, or a piston piece there, but your metal parts should last you.

To save metal parts you can perform a cleaning. Grime, dirt and dust will eventually start wearing metal parts out. To clean it you can buy a silicone based fluid in a pressurized can. It's yellow and sold at Canadian Tire, I think it's made by Gunk or something. Anyways, I dissemble the gun into a few components, such as the frame, the slide, the barrel assembly and the recoil assembly. I thoroughly spray out each one, making certain to get into all of the mechanisms, moving parts, etc. then I sit them in a plastic or Tupperware container upright so they can drain. I let them drain for at least an hour. After that's done I check the fluid in the bottom of the container. If it's really dirty I re-spray the parts again and repeat. Once clean-ish fluid is leaking out of the gun I wipe up the parts with paper towels and q-tips thoroughly. You want to remove as much of the fluid as you reasonably can. The barrel and hop-up I gently wipe out with a q-tip or two, same as the piston and hammer mechanisms. After the gun has been cleaned and wiped let it dry a bit. I then apply a few drops of silicone oil into hammer mechanism, trigger mechanism and piston, which I then move and function to work it in. I use green gas to oil the slide and hop-up because it'll spray right out of the magazine and you don't want to drown them. After its all together, put a magazine through it. Excess oil will spray out of the gun. At this point, wipe it all down again, but you don't have to disassemble it. Wipe out the magwell as well.

And you're done.

[mr_nuts31]

Originally Posted by kar120c

Not easy to find mid viscosity silicone and the Airsoft products are of very very fluid

You can try Tornado oil from Airsoft Innovations or even going to a sex shop to buy silicone lube.

[RainyEyes]

Originally Posted by Danke

Graphite powder.

Wait, are you serious? Can I just get dollarama pencil lead and grind it out as lubricant, or is this a specific hardware product? I heard of graphite being used as a lubricant before but not for airsoft.

[chaz]

Locksmith graphite powder would be my guess or spray dry lube. Pencil lead is rarely graphite anymore.

[Ricochet]

Originally Posted by kar120c

Not easy to find mid viscosity silicone and the Airsoft products are of very very fluid

You'd think, but there's is even more fluidy silicone fluid out there. You really don't want it too thick. Not just because it'll put extra pressure on the components, but it'll mix with all the dirt easier which can hurt those parts as well. Also, if it's too thick it's hard to clean it out later on.

As for graphite, I could see using that, though I don't know if I'd want any getting in my hip-up or piston. Wouldn't fall through the mechanisms over time and be kind of useless?

[chaz]

Molybdenum disulfide - this is a dry lubricant used all over the place. I believe it is plastic safe and bonds well to whatever surface you apply it to.

I used a jigaloo dry graphite in the past and it faired well. It warns that some plastics may be affected.

[Windows]

I primarily use 3 different lubricants depending on the function of the parts.
For high force parts such as hammers, sears, and other relatively slow moving pieces, I use a aviation grade medium-weight grease such as aeroshell 22. It lasts much longer on tough to reach parts and plays well with ABS.

For faster metal on metal or metal on plastic such as bolts or slides, I have been using Frog lube (paste) with excellent results. It provides excellent wetting properties, thermal stability, water repellancy, and is non toxic and safe to use on all plastics. The paste version is also exceptionally easy to apply with a screwdriver for those hard to reach areas.

Lastly, for fast moving o-rings such as the piston o-ring, I use a very light weight o-ring grease such as the molybdenum grease mentioned above. It is absolutely essential that this grease is top quality as I only use a tiny film on the cylinder walls to prevent grease ending up in the shuttle valve, hop up, or barrel, and this tiny amount needs to survive thousands of shots and exposure to propane without drying out.

As a side note, I don't use silicone in any of my mags or propane as I find it gets everywhere, messes with the hop up producing inconsistent shots, disolves other lubricants, causes buildup of said lubricants in the barrel, attracts dust and dirt, and suffers from dry out after exposure to propane. For keeping the o-rings in the valves of the magazine maintained, I disassemble them and use automotive seal swell, and then clean off the excess.

[wind_comm]

Originally Posted by chaz

Molybdenum disulfide - this is a dry lubricant used all over the place. I believe it is plastic safe and bonds well to whatever surface you apply it to.

I used a jigaloo dry graphite in the past and it faired well. It warns that some plastics may be affected.

I'm trying to find some loose moly disulfide powder to experiment on my pistols with but it's either for extremely small quantities or 100's of dollars. by and large, thenormal grease compounds from cambodian tire or whatnot are full of petroleum distillates and aren't meant for plastics and rubbers.

also be forewarned, whatever jigaloo uses in their products as propellant is some wicked gnarly stuff. I've heard of it eating up plastics and rubber to the point where you might think it was the cookie monster and some cookies. when I want all those solvents, I'll buy them separately thank you very much.

[kar120c]

I find Glock hammer mechanism to be very lube sensitive and easy to wear.
What do you suggest for this?

[BobbyDangerous]

I use thick silicone oil. RC Differential oil. Get it at any hobby shop. Just a little dap and spred it around.

[bug519]

I use Superlube.

http://homehardware.ca/en/rec/index....Ntt=super+lube

[Arkainos]

Can Vouch for super lube.