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Old May 27th, 2013, 14:23   #1
cminke
 
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m4 NOT WORKING

my KING ARMS COLT m4a1 does nothing, it doesn't sequel it doesn't grind, it doesn't make any sound, its just dead. i know for a fact that my battery works, and have tested the bat. what i don't know is what happened. my gun was working fine, then it started to not work every time i shot in semi, ild pull the trigger 1-4 times and maybe 2-3 times it would shoot, then it got worse and worse then stopped working entirely. the wires look fine, and so do the gears.
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Old May 27th, 2013, 14:34   #2
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Probably a spotted contact on the selector plate.

Are you using a lipo by any chance?
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Old May 27th, 2013, 14:42   #3
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Bad connection, loose wires, carbon build up on switch assembly, bad motor, bad wires, bad contacts. Any of these cause could be the problem. I'll start with the motor and work your way into the gearbox.
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Old May 27th, 2013, 14:57   #4
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I'm gonna go with the motor connectors fell off. It's the most common problem when there's no sound.
Just take the end plate off your grip (don't unscrew the big screw in the middle, thats the motor height adjuster), and check the connections on the motor.
You can tighten them up by crushing them VERY LIGHTLY with pliers
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Old May 27th, 2013, 15:10   #5
cminke
 
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ive done that a few times now, its not the motor CONNECTION, i cant speak for the motor its self. how do i check if the motor is working?
i havent checked the slector plate ill give that a try, YES i do use lipo, i go between lipo and nicd.
i believe that the wires are all good, and connections are strong.
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Old May 27th, 2013, 15:46   #6
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what voltage of lipo and nicd? and how much have you used the gun?
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Old May 27th, 2013, 15:52   #7
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Originally Posted by cminke View Post
ive done that a few times now, its not the motor CONNECTION, i cant speak for the motor its self. how do i check if the motor is working?
remove the motor from the grip and keep it connected. Depress the trigger to see if it turns.
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Old May 27th, 2013, 16:17   #8
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After reading the description and progression of the issue, I'd say your switch assembly contacts is the cause. Running lipo without a basic mosfet will cause the switch assembly contacts to corrode, and if you continue to use the gun, the contacts will be eaten away and then fall off. I've seen this many times with guns running lipo and without a mosfet.
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Last edited by HKGhost; May 27th, 2013 at 19:53..
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Old May 27th, 2013, 16:36   #9
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we all assume "lipo" to mean 11.1v, but lots of people run 7.4v lipos. Way better for reduced arcing, but the 7.4v lipos can also melt the plastic part of the switch lol
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Old May 27th, 2013, 17:34   #10
rogue 46
 
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m4 contact

Use a 9volt bat..small square one..and 2 wires, with a tiny light bulb,the other ends to the contacts from the switch assembly/trigger..also try the same thing to the motor..about all i can help with.. goodluck
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Old May 27th, 2013, 20:07   #11
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Also, if you're running a poorly setup gun (e.g. bad shimming, tight fitting parts), anything that will cause the motor to work harder, and in which requires more amperage from the battery, will accelerate arching and corrode the contacts. And it affects the switch assembly and motor brushes. You should check these area.
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Old May 27th, 2013, 20:55   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKGhost View Post
After reading the description and progression of the issue, I'd say your switch assembly contacts is the cause. Running lipo without a basic mosfet will cause the switch assembly contacts to corrode, and if you continue to use the gun, the contacts will be eaten away and then fall off. I've seen this many times with guns running lipo and without a mosfet.
+1

I did that to a VFC of mine. Symptoms were also the same as cminke's.

Now they both have mosfets, although my KWA M4A1 ran 11.1V LiPo since I got it last year and when I opened it to rewire for the mosfet, the contacts showed no burn...
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Old May 27th, 2013, 22:05   #13
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I have run an echo1 Scar with a 11.1v lipo for a season and just checked the contacts, very worn and carbon coated. My mosfet is now installed. My JG M4s on 11.1v and 7.4v lipos for 2 seasons had a piston fail a few weeks ago so I checked and contacts were clean still, being five years old I was kinda surprised If the OP uses tamiya the connector should be examined, replacing the trigger contacts and all the wiring is cheap for the gains so why not do it all?
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Old May 27th, 2013, 22:11   #14
Rusty Lugnuts
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fuse!
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Old May 27th, 2013, 22:37   #15
cminke
 
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dont have a fuse, and i did run an 11.1 and normaly a 7.4LIPO or 8.4 nicad ill chech thises areas and tell you whats up
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