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May 13th, 2013, 19:42 | #1 |
Wiring Warm
Ok i have a G&G MAX and so the motor plate was a little bit out so i tighten it in and now the wiring get WARM/HOT on the wiring and the Fuse box this is Low Resistance too why is this happening? Thanks.
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May 13th, 2013, 21:25 | #2 |
reneorantes
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Probable that the motor plate is too tight causing the motor to work harder
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May 14th, 2013, 11:28 | #3 |
To elabaorate on the 2nd post.
The motor height is now too high because you adjusted that plate up. Which is causing the gears to not be meshed correctly (more friction, binding) thus the motor is working "harder" to cycle your gearbox |
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May 14th, 2013, 13:10 | #4 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Also, the wiring always gets hot, especially on full auto, that's just how electricity works
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May 14th, 2013, 13:38 | #5 |
To add to ThunderCactus, wire of a certain size can only carry so much power efficiently, and we use small wires for airsoft.
If your gearbox encounters a lot of resistance (either in the wiring or physically, the motor height being one thing to check) the motor has to pull more power to spin the gears properly. That excess power can heat the wires. I'd start by finding what causes that huge power draw. Maybe motor height, maybe the shimming of the gears in the gearbox. After I'd check if there is any resistance in the circuitry. Tamiya connectors, especially the mini ones, cause resistance. The fuse causes resistance too. A pinched cable could cause some problems too. That kind of resistance can cause more heat because it requires more power, but should not cause HOT wires, only a slower trigger response due to lower power delivery speed. If you're sure everything is in order, you could rewire the gun with 16 gauge wire, the standard being either 18 or 20 (not sure about 20, but...). |
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May 14th, 2013, 16:40 | #6 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Stock G&P uses 16 or 18g highly flexible silicone wire, and a standard throw switch trigger
There's a whole lot of resistance in the stock wires and especially that style of trigger, its not uncommon for the wires to heat up in any stock gun But they don't need to be upgraded unless you upgrade to a mosfet, since the trigger provides way more resistance than the wiring |
May 14th, 2013, 18:14 | #7 | |
Quote:
Battery with Deans -> Deans to small Tamiya Adaptor -> 35amp fuse box -> Large Tamiya ^ On a M16 PTW 2011 serial number. |
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May 15th, 2013, 00:33 | #8 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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bahaha those are always classic.
Right up there with the old transparent lamp cord wiring job |
May 15th, 2013, 12:40 | #9 | |
Quote:
Also note a rolled up piece of tin foil is -not- a fuse. On a Gen 1 M16 PTW from 5 years or more back. |
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May 15th, 2013, 12:58 | #10 |
I'd do gun doc work just for that kind of stories (just need a few years of experience with my own guns).
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May 15th, 2013, 13:13 | #11 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Actually my fav was a gun shady jim built. noveske M4, powered by an 11.1v LiPo, no mosfet, no fuse, shitty internals, and lubed it with motor oil.
That's right. MOTOR OIL. 5W-30 all over the inside of his mechbox, barrel, mag, and dripping into his motor, with a completely unprotected 11.1v lipo in the stock. |
May 15th, 2013, 13:21 | #12 |
That looks awesome, but sad at the same time.
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