>Hello need help whit my sniper rifle l96

[souellet]

Hello and thx for the help.

I get this gun on http://www.ctacairsoft.com/c-tacl96greenpkg

the spec said fps 460-480

but when i shoot is more like fps 370-410

so i need advice and help.

I m a new sniper ,any advice to fix my gun will be great.

If it cant be fix ,do you have any recommanded piece i can change to get my fps up to 480-500 .


Thx

[Deadpool]

Why do you need 500fps?

[K3vX]

So he can score these super elite long shots...
Sounds like the announced velocity is calculated with .12g bb.

You'll find that a good sniper is not only measured by vbelocity, but by consistency. The first step in getting a better rifle would be to get a constant FPS, and not something along "370-410". Even my chinese AEG has less than half that deviation.

[souellet]

so how i can fix my fps at 460-480?

[Kos-Mos]

you can't fix something that is not broken.

Your FPS is right on the spot.

FPS (feet per second) is a measure just like kilometers per hours, only smaller.
Depending on the weight of the BB you use, it will vary. The thing that will stay constant is the ENERGY.

Thing about it like this:

It takes about the same strength to throw a brick 20 feet as to throw a baseball 50.

So 460-480 with .12g BBs is about the same as 370-410 with .20g BB.

Never use cheap BBs, and if you want to snipe, use .36g or above.

[audi_bhoy]

Are you using .2g BBs to test the fps output or the gun? If you use heavier BBs the output FPS will lower, but the energy transfered through the BB will be the same.

[souellet]

ok thx that totally logic

i use 0.28 so that make sence.

What i can do if i want cap the 460-480 fps whit my 0.28 bb?

[Ross]

with .28's you'd probably want to be around the 400 fps mark. if the fps is fluctuating then it's time to upgrade the gun or use it as is.

[souellet]

My fps is fluctuating.Last time i shoot at 370-460 .I just want a good consistency like 440-
450
Any advice for a upgrade?

My M4 shoot at 380-400 so i expect my snipe will shoot more .

[JLiang]

Remember what people have said; Velocity is not a major factor in the performance of a rifle.

It certainly is important, but having shot-to-shot consistency is much more important.

I'm not too familiar with the L96 Platform, but generally for consistency, you'll want to overhaul the compression parts (Cylinder, Piston, Nozzle, etc.), as well as get a tightbore barrel and good hop unit.

The Barrel and Hop-up are more for individual shot accuracy (getting the round to where you want it), and the compression parts are for velocity consistency. That way, one shot isn't firing at 380 FPS while the next is going at 450. This allows the BBs to, again, get to where you want them to, through a more consistent flight pattern.

If your rifle is fluctuating at 370-460, that is a massive 90 FPS gap. You need to close that down; most 'good' rifles fluctuate in the 10 FPS range, and every decent marksman out there is running a DMR/Sniper within 1-5 FPS flux (Or at least, that's what I've been told).

You want maximum consistency, not maximum velocity. FPS is only the speed at which your projectile reaches impact. If you're not firing accurately enough to even hit the target, what's the point of having it fly at 500 FPS?

[Kos-Mos]

Do you want to field your gun?
Yes?
Leave the FPS like that. Most clone L96 have a "magic spring" in them. They shoot high without the hard to pull spring.

Now if you want to enhance the accuracy, start with a new hop-up chamber or TDC mod. The first will let you install AEG barrels and rubbers. It's made by PDI and cost about 80-100$

Then, replace the piston, piston head and spring guide with a Modify set. And shoot with it. It will bring your FPS really closer and silence the gun at the same time. These parts are around 50$

You will have a good start with that.
If you want to bring it even higher (meaning more consistent, not higher FPS), you can install a zero or V-trigger. The first makes the pull insanely soft, but a lot longer. The V-trigger is adjustable, so the pull can be minimal, but the break is really hard on heavy springs. That part cost about 200$

Then, you can replace the cylinder and cylinder head. I really like LayLax' parts, but you can get PDI/Raven if you prefer. Theses will not really up FPS consistency, but they are made to better tolerances than the stock parts and will be more constant and easier to pull. Cylinder and head sets are between 50 and 150$

A good quality scope (not airsoft scope, a real made for real weapons), and good quality rings (again, real rings, not airsoft aluminum crap) will also make target aquisition easier and the image will be a lot clearer. And usually the eye relief is better. That's about 100-150$ for a "cheap" one.

Now if you only want to shoot at targets, just use it that way. Higher FPS = LOWER accuracy. The sweet spot seems to be at 430 fps with .20 anyways.

Also, when you test your rifle power, you ALWAYS use .20g If your gun shoots 450fps with .20g, the BB will arrive with the same energy when using .28 or above, only slower. It will however travel farther and be less affected by wind.

[ThunderCactus]

My sniper rifle shot 420fps on .20s and I was getting kills at 260ft.
If you shoot over 430fps on .2s you'll need heavier ammo too, which becomes increasingly more expensive.
At 480-500 on .2s you should be using .36s

[Hectic]

480 on 28's is like 570 on 20's noone will let you play with that. And yes to what everyone else said. If your fps is fluctuating that much you prolly have an air leak. Change the hop rubber and cylender head and you should stabelize your fps change your inner barrel while your at it and youll increase your accuracy too.
With those minor upgrades you should have a decent rifle.

[JLiang]

Originally Posted by Hectic

If your fps is fluctuating that much you prolly have an air leak.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't a leaky compression system simply result in a loss in velocity and positive resistance?

It doesn't really make sense to me that a leak would create velocity variances.

That'd be like having a leaky tire and having it pulse between overflowing and dead flat. O.e

[Hectic]

If you have a crappy oring on the piston or the cylender head doesnt seal well to the hop up rubber or to the cylender or the hopup rubber to the barrel or the hop up unit you could have an air leak and or bad compression. And either one or all of those variables could be speratic. Like you rack the bolt fire a shot and get 350fps and the pressure from firing expands the hop up rubber to make a nice seal on the hop chamber you rack and fire again and the oring on the piston expands good and you alrdy created a beter seal between hop up and rubber and you shoot 370fps but the impact shifts the cylender head a lil next shot you have a shifted cylender head so it leaks aro7nd the cylender head and doesnt seat well into the hop up so another leak and then th oring doesnt expand on the piston again and you shoot 345
Next shot u shoot 355 then 340 then 370.
Too many crappy stock parts makes too many variables and causes speratic leaks.
Think of it like a tire with a hole in it constantly hooked to a pump a ball inside that sometimes is forced against the hole stopping the leak pressure would rise then fall then hold steady and so on.
A decent bolt action no matter the power 300fps or 600fps should only have a small variance shot to shot. ( my vsr is ±3fps so has only a 6fps varience) a 20 or 30 fps varience means there is some kind of loss happening that isnt happening all the time. Id try teflon tape on the connection between the cylender head and cylender (on the threads) between the hop rubber and barrel and the hop rubber and hop unit. That should eliminate most of the potential for sperratic leaking if your on a tight bugget. Otherwise id buy a laylax cylender, piston, piston head, hop up unit and a good inner barrel and be done with it.

And just to correct what kos mos said. A heavier bb will leave the barrel with the same energy (joules not fps) but it will arrive at the target with more energy as a lower weight bb will shed the energy (and velocity for that matter) alot faster as it cannot overcome the resistance of the air as well as a heavy round.
Fire a 20 at 400fps after about 30feet it has lost alot of velocity and energy at about 75feet a 30g bb fired from the same gun will have more energy left and will actually be traveling faster the the 20g bb even tho the initial velocity was alot lower because the lighter bb will be slowing down and shedding energy at a much faster rate then the heavier one. By 120 feet the 20 will be useless but the 30 will still fly relatively straight and will still have enough energy that the target will feel the hit even out to 200 feet itll have decent energy.
In a 500 fps setup a 36 or 40 bb with adequate hop up can cary enough energy for the target to feel out well past 300 feet but a 20 will still be useless after 120 to 150feet cause it just cant combat the resistance the air is putting on it as it flies
Here is a more scientific explination and also links are provided to the bbbastard msed charts for further explination of energy retention and velocity losses over range.
http://www.airsoft2day.com/news/26-t...f-airsoft.html