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AEG REVIEW - Javelin M4A1 RIS EBB

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Old May 23rd, 2012, 15:20   #1
Splashx
 
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AEG REVIEW - Javelin M4A1 RIS EBB

1. INTRODUCTION
Hi folks, I'll introduce myself. I've been playing airsoft for 5 years+ and I owned some different AEGs : Brand new Well G3SAS (2007), Used TM G3 sg-1 (200, Brand new Jing gong M16 (2009), Used King arms M4 (2010 to 2011), Brand new (2) VFC Scar L (2011 to 2012), used ICS M4 (2012). I also used to be a Gundoc at games and repaired/improved my buddy's aegs.

Here's my review (to be continued) of the china made Javelin M4 RIS EBB, which can be bought in-country @ 245$ (225$ for the standard non-RIS Javelin M4A1 EBB). It is also available in CQB config.

(Pictures will be added later)


2. BRIEF OVERVIEW
400-ish fps out of the box
Electric blowback
Metal body
Metal RIS
Front wired (mini tamiya)
250 rounds metal hi-cap (grey-ish)
No battery/charger included
Recommended battery : 9.6v mini/7.4v lipo
Made in China by Javelin Airsoft works
Close competitors in the same price range: Classic Army Sport Line LWRC M6, WE-tech M4 AEG

3. EXTERNAL FEATURES

Main body
Everything that has to be metal is indeed metal. The upper and lower metal body quality is on par with other brands in the same price-tag (pot metal). It is feeling just like my last ICS M4. The trademarks aren’t engraved, it is much like a “tattoo” decal :P (not painted). I like the ergonomical pistol grip, which is made from strong texturized plastic (improvement over the well used M4 original pistol grip). KAC trigger guard is giving larger access to trigger when you wear gloves (as I do). The working bolt release is used to lock the fake bolt in place and release it when you adjust the hop-up. I won’t use it much because it can wear out easily (see internal features).

Sights
Usual metal front “triangle” sight. CQB block screw type removable fixed rear sight

Outer barrel
Standard metal one piece outer barrel. No trades on it. A black metal flash hider is provided to swap the blaze orange plastic "US regulated" flash hider. However, no hex screw is available to retain the flash hider in place so it should be tightened right.

RIS
Average quality 2 piece metal RIS. It is a little "fatter" than other regular RIS found on the market (also based on a China-made metal RIS I owned few years back). Which is great because it's easier to fit nunchuck (tested), minis or nunchuck lipos (tested) inside. No need of a battery box when you use those type of batteries. Nice "position number tags” (if it's called so) deep white engravings on the rails. NO wobble at all on the RIS. A “reel steel” like delta ring is installed, so it could be the reason why it’s so tight.

Rear stock
An usual multi-position stock with some added options : metal utility rail on right side ( no use for me ) and battery compartment to store 2 CR123 inside the stock ( also no use for me ). There’s a small play (up and down) on the rear stock, but it’s easily corrected by adding one length of electrical tape inside the upper part of the stock. There’s also an usual small play (from front to rear) when the stock is locked to a position, but it won’t move to another position when locked even if force is applied (unlike my VFC Scar's and my 2009 Jing Gong).

4. INTERNAL FEATURES


Every mechbox screws is loose...? I will put some lock-tite and thighten em enough.
Pneumatic components
The pneumatic combo (piston head/cylinder head/nozzle) offers a great air seal with no noticable air leak when moving the piston forward and blocking the nozzle. The metal nozzle has an internal o-ring which is great. Vented POM piston head, plastic cylinder head. The cylinder has no port??? There should be a ported cylinder due to the lenght of the inner barrel. BBs are likely to exit the barrel before the piston head would bang on the cylinder head (no resistance on remaining travel of the piston). So excess stress on the mechbox. Average quality piston. It has the second tooth removed and the AOE appears to be correct.

Mechanical parts
I'm concerned about how the gears are made. Visually, they look similar (poor) as my old jing gong. It would be a good Idea to swap them for long term durability. They are absolutely POORLY SHIMMED. I now found out why the pinion gear (motor's) show signs of use only after 2 low cap mags The 7mm bushings are PLASTIC. For durability purpose, you HAVE to buy a set of 7mm metal bushings or bearing-bushings. Your gun will thank you for that. I'll keep those bushings to see how log they will last. The motor appears to be a little weak. There's a big difference (when turning the pinion by hand, much less magnet resistance) with a VFC stock EG1300, and pretty far from a Guarder ultimate torque. But apparently it does his job. The anti-reversal latch is proprietary (don't know why?). A spring is pushing it on the bevel gear. Not much grease on the gears (not enough).

Proprietary parts
Unfortunately, there's many proprietary parts in there as : nozzle,cylinder head, tappet plate, selector plate, hop-up, the mechbox shell itself and the latch. For example, if you want to change the cylinder head for a metal one, you'll need to also change the nozzle (non-compatible with aftermarket cylinder head) and the hop-up (made to fit the special nozzle). However, they appears to be well made. It will be easier to change the complete mechbox to an aftermarket if something break ( I haven't tried if other brands of mechbox will fit in the metal body ).

5. ”ON THE FIELD” REVIEW
(to be continued)

6. REVIEWS FROM OTHERS
Javelin Airsoft Works M4 CQB Review - YouTube

Javelin Airsoft Works M4A1 Internal Review - YouTube

The Skirmish Report (Javelin M4) - YouTube

7. CONCLUSION
(to be continued)

Last edited by Splashx; May 23rd, 2012 at 19:37..
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Old June 7th, 2012, 13:44   #2
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The little post where the proprietary anti-reversal latch is attached on just snapped off! I can't drill a hole to be able to use standart AR latch (not enough clearance) so the mechbox is now just garbage! Only 1 game old and some plinking at 355fps (downgraded from the 405fps spring) :P

so in my opinion don't buy it if you don't plan to change the whole mechbox :P I'll have to do some custom work as the fake bold is attached to the shell (not on the upper body like others)

Last edited by Splashx; June 7th, 2012 at 13:50..
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Old June 12th, 2012, 10:34   #3
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ok then.... I bought an aftermarket mechbox (lonex drop-in) to replace the broken useless one... IT DIDN'T FIT!!! I also tried an original TM mechbox and it didn't fit!!!

I have to dremel approx 1mm on the rear side of the mechbox AND 1mm on the rear internal side of the lower metal body for them to fit... But the mechbox is still at an angle...

DON'T BUY IT... period.

buy at the very least a JG or king arms or something that is completely 100% TM compatible

don't know for the Javelin AKs

Last edited by Splashx; June 12th, 2012 at 10:43..
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Old June 12th, 2012, 11:02   #4
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Get an ASCU v. 2 and a good motor and you don't need an anti-reversal latch. Then never buy a proprietary javelin again.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 12:35   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venture View Post
Get an ASCU v. 2 and a good motor and you don't need an anti-reversal latch. Then never buy a proprietary javelin again.
Of course it is an option
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Old June 12th, 2012, 20:46   #6
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Hi,

An ASCU or AWS probably won't be a drop-in fit because you need a standard TM gearbox to make the chip fit in.

Thank you for your review, I was looking into those because I saw good reviews from some podcasters....

Just
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Old June 12th, 2012, 23:58   #7
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I would avoid spending on an ASCU to try to patch up this rifle. The ASCU unit has its own problems.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 10:57   #8
Splashx
 
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I finally succesfully fitted a lonex drop-in mechbox in there, but it was a PITA, removing 1mm on the gearbox, 1mm on the metal body, and 1mm on the vertical side of the pistol grip (motor didn't mesh perfectly)

But I'll have to mod the rack/fake bolt inside the upper body (they are fixed ON the mechbox with the javelin)

Quote:
Originally Posted by juicyjust View Post
Hi,

An ASCU or AWS probably won't be a drop-in fit because you need a standard TM gearbox to make the chip fit in.

Thank you for your review, I was looking into those because I saw good reviews from some podcasters....

Just
It is a good product, at least until the mechbox breaks

Last edited by Splashx; June 13th, 2012 at 11:28..
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Old June 13th, 2012, 14:08   #9
venture
 
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Wow, they are even more proprietary than I thought. I fit a standard mechbox into a kwa with less fuss than that. These are a "stay away" recommendation from me.

I won't even be able to do service on them because I don't stock any of these parts.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 15:03   #10
Stealth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venture View Post
Wow, they are even more proprietary than I thought. I fit a standard mechbox into a kwa with less fuss than that. These are a "stay away" recommendation from me.

I won't even be able to do service on them because I don't stock any of these parts.
Didn't kylem_8 used to retail Javelin?
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Old June 13th, 2012, 15:25   #11
Pirate
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Glad to see that this is a red light before I picked one up. Was considering this for a cheap gun for a base to build on.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 16:19   #12
Splashx
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
Glad to see that this is a red light before I picked one up. Was considering this for a cheap gun for a base to build on.
Just buy the King arms, you would be able to sell easily the original internals
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Old June 13th, 2012, 17:28   #13
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I've seen the gearbox shells shear in the back where they have the slits cut in it... I have no idea why they designed the shell like that, it just looks terribly cheap. I've not heard anything good about javelin guns aside from the price tag... but really, are you saving that much?
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