Cylinder "tail" loose.

[EscapisT]

Hey, I'm having a problem with my JGW M24. My bolt handle wiggles.

When looking at the cylinder itself, there are two ends. There's the cylinder head, which is fine, and the tail which the bolt assembly screws into. That "tail" has some play as it's not tight in the cylinder. Can this piece be tightened? How? I can't figure it out!!!

[CDN_Stalker]

The one on my CA M24 has always been loose, I just put up with it. If the same as mine, is because the outer shell holes have opened up from use. Can't think of any helpful suggestions, I tried quite a few things to no avail.

[Goose0]

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

The one on my CA M24 has always been loose, I just put up with it. If the same as mine, is because the outer shell holes have opened up from use. Can't think of any helpful suggestions, I tried quite a few things to no avail.

i dont know if i would recommend this but this i was i did and it made it a little bit better. im sure some frown on this but i took some super glue and put it over top of the three pins that hold the "tail" in. i let it dry then sanded down the left over glue. its still moves but not as much. im sure it will loosen with use but it works for now till i get more upgrades for it

[CDN_Stalker]

Super glue won't hold that well, it's brittle and doesn't have much to hold onto. About the only thing I can suggest along the same lines as yours is to press JB Weld into the holes, pins, etc.

[EscapisT]

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

The one on my CA M24 has always been loose, I just put up with it. If the same as mine, is because the outer shell holes have opened up from use. Can't think of any helpful suggestions, I tried quite a few things to no avail.

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

Super glue won't hold that well, it's brittle and doesn't have much to hold onto. About the only thing I can suggest along the same lines as yours is to press JB Weld into the holes, pins, etc.

JB weld? It's the new duct tape. :cheers:

But seriously, Im not going to frown on you for that. Because when you think about it, it isnt a moving part. The cylinder tail's sole purpose is to hold the bolt assembly. I don't see anything wrong with glueing it or cold welding it to reinforce it.

Any one disagree? do you think will it lead to more problems?

[CDN_Stalker]

Nah, go for it. Just make sure you let it cure fully before trying out. While at it, put some LocTite on the screw that holds the bolt handle/boss on and let it cure too. That was a bigger concern of mine, the handle always coming loose on me, and that fixed it.

[EscapisT]

Hmmm.... will do, thanks for that.
One more problem though... I stripped the screw you're talking about. The one that holds the bolt handle to the cylinder. It was a weird size. It was like "between" two of the sizes in my allen key set. I filled the screw head with jb weld and when it got tacky I pressed the allen key in it to die it, and it's still curing ATM. I doubt it'll hold up to being torqued, and since it's a weird thread pattern I don't think I could find an identical screw.

If I can't find one, can I just find one of a similar size and re-tap the cylinder tail to accommodate it?

[CDN_Stalker]

You could, but it'll be a metric screw, same as all the other screws.

Heck, while you LocTite, do all the screws on the trigger assembly (one by one, not all same time) and do the scope rail, after a few years I noticed mine was loose.

[VooDooPeteK]

Loctite and JB weld will be your best friend.

The plastic weld stuff is good upto 3500 PSI and will work just fine. But as mentioned let it cure fully and then you can also sand down any rough edges.

As for the loctite make sure its the blue stuff not the red

[CDN_Stalker]

Red LocTite is all I've used, works just fine.

[EscapisT]

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

You could, but it'll be a metric screw, same as all the other screws.

Heck, while you LocTite, do all the screws on the trigger assembly (one by one, not all same time) and do the scope rail, after a few years I noticed mine was loose.

Hmm... Well all the other screws seemed to be compatible with my hex set. Except for that one. Why would they make just one screw imperial? I don't see the logic in that. I guess I might as well re-tap it.

After that, loctite. And I think I'm going to do the teflon mod... Or is it really worth it?

What were the first "free" mods or "adjustments" that you made to your CA M24, stalker?

[Goose0]

yeah lock tight is a must. the first thing that went loose on me was the hop up chamber so the whole inner barrel/hop up was moving around. after that it was the bolt handle screw witch came loose fairly fast so you should get right on that . Make sure you dont loose the bearing on the bolt handle too. and as far as the JB weld thats a really good idea thanks for the tip

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by EscapisT

Hmm... Well all the other screws seemed to be compatible with my hex set. Except for that one. Why would they make just one screw imperial? I don't see the logic in that. I guess I might as well re-tap it.

After that, loctite. And I think I'm going to do the teflon mod... Or is it really worth it?

What were the first "free" mods or "adjustments" that you made to your CA M24, stalker?

Wrapping the hop up rubber in teflon tape sure as hell doesn't hurt, can't say how much if any benefit there is.

My first free mods? Lol, fixing the damned thing up, I bought it third hand back in 2003 and it was in rough and beat up shape. Still is actually, but I love it and know it well.

[VooDooPeteK]

teflon on the hop up will ensure you are getting a good seal, also doesn't hurt to put some on the cylinder head threads as well.