Airsoft Batteries - Going from 9.6V to 12V

[SHÖCK]

I'm currently using 9.6V minis but I'm thinking of switching to a large type battery and so now I have bigger voltages available like 10.8V and 12V.

Is it safe to goto a higher voltage? I am running an upgraded complete SRC v3 Gearbox that has an SRC Ultra High Torque Motor and an M130 spring. I don't want to open this one up so I don't know what gears are in it, but I'm pretty sure they are also upgraded.

I'd like a faster rate of fire and also to reduce the lag and time of motor whine when it draws the spring back. Can I just goto a higher voltage NiMH battery? I don't want to deal with LIPOs right now. Battery size is no issue. I'm building a battery compartment that hides as a chin-rest on the stock.

How does something like this 12V, 4200mAh battery look?
http://www.all-battery.com/12v4200ma...nddcpower.aspx

[TokyoSeven]

For myself, I would personally not go that high. Im just not comfturble with that now juice. Some people have ventured into that area for voltage with normal batteries and lipos and swear by it. For myself, its just not my scene.

The only information I can offer is if your using a 9.6v mini battery try upgrading to a 9.6v made with SubC batteries. You should notice a difference from what your 9.6v mini batteries were putting out.

[m102404]

There's no magic to running big batteries. You're components have to be good-excellent quality...and they have to be extremely well setup. If you rifle can take extended use at large 9.6v sub-c batteries...it'll probably survive higher voltages....AT LEAST FOR A WHILE.

As a brief anectdote.

I recently built a high speed CQB rifle to shoot with LiPo batterys. I was interested in fooling around...but was more after a very quick trigger response vs. high ROF full auto. I put a TriggerMaster mosfet in it to get 3rd bursts...since at the ROF it was at, it's empty a mid-cap in a heartbeat.

I was using large 8.4v 3600mah Sub-C NiMh, 9.6v 2300mah Sub-C NiCad and 11.1v 1100mAh 15C LiPo in it. Zero issues or concerns with it...it ran great. Several people test fired it in both semi and full (about 1000-1700rnds through it, lots more dry firing). Upon inspection, there was little to no wear of any parts.

Then KingCobra came over with this silly LiPo packs (one of them fully charged is 16+v). I tried a 11.1 25C (can't remember the mAh rating, but the continuous and burst amp ratings we're well in excess of 50amps!!!) on my rifle...and it went apesh*t. The ROF was insane....and it damaged the MOSFET. Even now with tamer batteries...the MOSFET seems "confused" about when to send power to the motor. I'll play around with it a bit more and see if resetting the MOSFET sorts it out...otherwise I'll swap another mosfet in.

Large batteries like that will kill your switch assembly if you shoot any appreciable amount of semi-auto.

9.6V large batteries with a well tuned mechbox and a good motor will still result in a crazy fast ROF...more than is worth putting in the field.

Have fun...buy your replacement parts in advance if you're going into builds like this.

Tys

[Crunchmeister]

Just be aware that putting that much juice through that mechbox will wear it down very quickly, even with top of the line parts. It may survive for a while, it you'll be replacing parts shortly. If you really want to go with that kind of voltage, a set of torque up gears might be a good idea. That will keep the rof down and decrease trigger lag. And a mosfet to protect your switch would also be a good idea.

[Styrak]

Going from 9.6v mini to 9.6v large should be a huge difference. I wouldn't go higher than that.

I put a 9.6v 4000mah large battery in my CQB M4 that I built, and needed to put in a sector clip to have it feed reliably because the ROF was so high.

[MADDOG]

I run a 10.8v 4300 mah GP battery in all my guns (AK and M4).
They are all upgraded with systema and Guarder parts but stock mechboxes.

All my mainguns have the Systema Magnum motor in them. This gives you added torgue and speed over other motors.

Combined with a 10.8 v big battery they haul ass and there is little wear on the gears or pistons. At some point the trigger assembly many need to be switched out. It has been 3 years of hard playing on the AK with little wear and tear with this setup.

Also when you go to 12v you need special chargers that can handle that many cells. Typical chargers only go up to 8 cells or 9.6v. Better ones can handle 10.8v (9 cells) so make sure your charger can do the job for any larger battery