JG G36c Metal Bushings

[m102404]

Syn's always helpful...racking up serious good karma points here.

Plastic bushings will last a long long time....at low power and without extended (i.e. 3000-4000rnd) bursts. The problem is that once they wear, they allow the gears to slip out of alignment and then much worse things can happen. If the gears slip and "crash" then you'll end up with a broken gear set (~$55-90), a mashed piston ($15-20) and maybe some other parts... (or you have really bad luck and toast all the parts at once... )

So, that's why you hear so often about people switching to metal bushings (not bearings) when they open up their mechbox. For the cost of them it's just so convenient and easy to do while you're into the guts of your rifle. You do need to re-shim things...and a good shim-job makes or breaks an AEG.

Hope that helps,

Tys

[Remi_3255]

Originally Posted by m102404

and a good shim-job makes or breaks an AEG.

Damn, that's scary... I've always liked to tinker with my toys though. I was really into the RC stuff before, but not really into the upgrades.. hmm.. I just put the car together using the directions the manual gave me. I think I would be able to pull this one off.

I've watched the mechbox.com video on disassembly of the mechbox, does this apply to the G36c mech as well? It was a TM M4 I believe.

what is the average distance between each gear?

[The Saint]

Originally Posted by Remi_3255

I've watched the mechbox.com video on disassembly of the mechbox, does this apply to the G36c mech as well? It was a TM M4 I believe.

Some concepts apply, like how to get the mechbox open without having springs flying everywhere. Otherwise, all M16 and variants (except PTWs) are version 2, G36s are all version 3.

[Remi_3255]

Originally Posted by The Saint

Otherwise, all M16 and variants (except PTWs) are version 2, G36s are all version 3.

Does anyone know where I can find videos/websites where they take the version 3 mech apart?

[m102404]

Look at anything to do with an AK or G36 or MP5K (K not the reg MP5). They're basically all the same but with different gears on the outside. Those gears are for selecting safe/semi/full.

As said...and I can sympathize that you want to get as exact as a reference as you can before you dive into it, but bear with it...

1. Once inside...there are very few difference, and those are subtle, between the version 2 and version 3 mechbox.

2. The process of properly shimming a mechbox would be done the same regardless of version type.

3. There isn't a single written document or video that will be as good as a substitute for someone showing you how to do it and what it "feels" like.

4. It's ok to be nervous...because if you botch it, you could be in for a real headache.

and lastly...you can always put it in a bag and give it to a gun doc to fix...LOL!

[Dusti69]

Originally Posted by Remi_3255

Does anyone know where I can find videos/websites where they take the version 3 mech apart?

mechbox.com does have a v3 video. at least one if not more

and yes thats the hole i was talking about.
im half tempted to take the classic army gearbox out of the be xm8 body and switch springs and piston/piston heads with my krakens gearbox and slap the classic army into my kraken just so i can quit worrying about messing with the shims and probable not so good shim job i did on it