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ICS M4 Issue. fires all the time

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Old May 27th, 2012, 15:38   #1
NANA
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ICS M4 Issue. fires all the time

Hey folks.

I just pick up an ICS M4 from the fourms and it has an issue i have never herd of before.
When hooked up to a battery as soon as it is taken off of safe it starts to fire full auto WITHOUT pulling the trigger. Now i am new to this sport and am just starting to learn the inner workings of AEG's. This is by far beyond my basic skill and I need some help.

Any advice you can give will help and if you happen to live in or around the Oshawa/Scarbrough area and can fix this issue. I would be more then willing to bring it out. I have a bucket of parts from motors to gears and springs and things i just dont know what they are. And if i dont have what i need to fix it i can get it.

I like this gun and have big plans for it. So come on folks help a fellow gunner out.

Thanks for your time
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Last edited by NANA; May 27th, 2012 at 15:46..
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Old May 27th, 2012, 17:22   #2
Darklen
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There's a short in the wiring somewhere and as soon as you flip it off safe, it completes the circuit. If its front wired, it's pretty easy to trace.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 17:28   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklen View Post
There's a short in the wiring somewhere and as soon as you flip it off safe, it completes the circuit. If its front wired, it's pretty easy to trace.
Looking further in the fourm posts i found someone with the same issue. It seems it is a wiring short, and yes it is front wired.

Can anyone fix this?
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Old May 28th, 2012, 00:37   #4
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Push the forward assist (it will release the spring).

Remove the rear body pin.
Flip the gun open.
Press the trigger (without battery).
There should be a small plastic part with a spring that moves. If it does not, it's because it's locked at the front. (happens some times).
Release the trigger and use something to push down (towards the inside of the mechbox) on the small block in the center. It should spring back as normal.

If it moves when you open it, it's probably between the fake bolt catch and the delta ring (the little metal guide rail on the left side of the magwell that covers the wires). The wires always are pinched there and get stripped (and short since it's metal). Especially if you pull on your wires to unplug your battery instead of holding the plug.
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Old May 28th, 2012, 09:53   #5
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Im an ICS fanboy myself -

There is a barrage of ICS take down videos on youtube. Getting to know your AEGS could save you a lot of time and money - gundocs should only be a last resort.

Kos-Mos is an airsoft genius - his posts have helped me out countless times and I guarantee hes picked out the problem without even looking at your gun.
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Old May 28th, 2012, 15:48   #6
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hm not sure how a wire short would do it? sounds like a contact/trigger short?

But I'm new to ICS
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Old May 28th, 2012, 17:40   #7
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Well if it's wiring is the same I can't see how going off safe would make it fire. Ifs it's a wire short. You'd need to be bypassing the trigger. Which would leave the motor powered. If we assume the safe selector is stopping the mechanics from spinning. I would than have to assume your motor is being powered. But at a hard stop due to the gears being locked up. Very bad for the motor.
Actually. A stuck switch would do the same.

But not sure how the wiring could short a close around the trigger without dead shorting the battery. Than again I'm not sure exactly how it's wired. Anythings possible.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 09:22   #8
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I will get some pics up tonight of the gun and as much of the insides as i can. I will check in and around the areas you all have pointed out.

Thanks for this, you folks rock.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 12:37   #9
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Negative wire goes right to the motor from the battery. That one rarely gets shorted.
Positive goes from the battery to the trigger then to the selector plate contacts and finally to the motor.

If the selector plate touches the mechbox shell or the body, a short will make the gun fire.

This is why I always remove the electrical safety and bypass the selector plate contacts. Less chance that something will touch. Remember, we talk about a copper plate sliding between two metal walls that must not be electrified... And it actually adds nothing to safety anyways.
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Old May 30th, 2012, 00:22   #10
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I was very limited for time tonight and only had a few minutes but upon closer inspection of the wires i found a cut in the protective cover of said wires. Took the best pic i could.

Any thoughts? (sorry for the crappy pics but i was in a hurry better ones tomorrow)
Rewire?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20120529_190759-1.jpg (66.4 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 20120529_190545-2.jpg (307.0 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 20120529_190545-1.jpg (61.8 KB, 9 views)
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Old May 30th, 2012, 08:47   #11
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Depends on how badly the wires are damaged - and judging by that red wire its really not to bad, but if the bare wires were touching the metal body that could explain everything.

Electrical tape would do the trick.

Re-wiring the positive wire (red one) can be very tricky because it is soldered to the trigger mechanism if you look - unless you're half decent at soldering and have a steady hand - id stick to the electrical tape.
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Old May 30th, 2012, 09:02   #12
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I would replace the wire if possible if not, use heat shrink or electric tape. I would also remove the metal peace that holds the wire in place. I removed it in mine because it shorted the wires just like it will short yours if you don't fix it. It happened to one of my friends as well... That's just a bad design.

This will not fix your current problem, but will prevent a future one...

Last edited by cbourdeau; May 30th, 2012 at 10:43..
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Old May 30th, 2012, 09:53   #13
Rusty Lugnuts
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I'm still betting on trigger contacts
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Old May 30th, 2012, 16:11   #14
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Small world.

I toatally rebuilt this exact gun last night from ground up including re wiring it from front to back.

I have no idea how going to semi and auto will cause the gun to start firing by itself other than what one of the guys here said. Its under power all the time and going to semi unlocks it.

I would strongly suggest opening this up and rewiring it. I know its sucks, but its worth it cause if you start chasing a short in a wire this will piss you right off. And if you dont have a fuse you could burn this right up.That areay you took the picture if is a classic weak spot on this gun.

The wire you need is at radio shack. The heat shrink tubing too. Soldering is not bad.

You will have to take this right down to the gear box though, but will be a good time to check the shimming, compression etc.


Sorry.
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Old May 30th, 2012, 17:00   #15
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I was planning on running the wires to the back anyways so it will have to get torn down. I have the wire comming in to rewire it. Looks like i am going to get a crash course in gun work after all.
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