VFC SOPMOD- best battery for this?

[christower2]

Safer way to increase trigger response would be to install a mosfet though. They arent expensive at all in some cases you can get them for cheaper than a lipo battery

[Snakebite1967]

running a 11.1 lipo for over a year now no issues with the Sopmod

[vink]

Learn how to use lipos. I run a 7.4 2000mah in my XCR and I'll never go back Nimh. Lighter, faster, more efficent, why not use it? I've been running heavy duty lipos in my RC trucks for years.

[horto]

My advice is to try the NiMH 9.6v 1600mah and see how you like it. If you're happy with the ROF, stick with that.

I have two guns running 11.1v buffer tube lipos. They required me to switch the actual buffer tube to one that would fit them, and in some cases rewire for them to fit. Also, both guns burn through trigger contacts at an alarming rate, because I didn't install a mosfet.

If you're really unhappy with the 9.6v (which I don't think you will be), then go lipo... just understand the headaches and additional work that comes with it.

[jangofett234]

Originally Posted by horto

My advice is to try the NiMH 9.6v 1600mah and see how you like it. If you're happy with the ROF, stick with that.

I have two guns running 11.1v buffer tube lipos. They required me to switch the actual buffer tube to one that would fit them, and in some cases rewire for them to fit. Also, both guns burn through trigger contacts at an alarming rate, because I didn't install a mosfet.

If you're really unhappy with the 9.6v (which I don't think you will be), then go lipo... just understand the headaches and additional work that comes with it.

Thats why i think im gonna stay with 9.6 v becuase im a noob and dont wanna screw anythnig up

[THe_Silencer]

My advice is to try BOTH a standard 9.6v battery and then try an 11.1v battery and then decide if you ever want to go back to non lipos ever again. I personally will never go back to standard batteries again b.c the trigger response that you can get from a lipo just blows NIMH batteries away. It's a night and day difference.

Some people on forums make it sound like using a lipo is like signing a death warrant for your internals. This is NOT true. Your lipo will only cycle your internals as fast as your motor can spin. If I put an 11.1v lipo in a stock JG, it'll only shoot about 18 or so RPS, well below that most players will consider stressful on the gearbox. Besides, VFC makes above average internals that are car battery tested, according to the manufacturer.

As for the exploding battery stigma associated with lipos, ALL batteries will explode if handled improperly. Lipos will give off many warning signs that something is wrong before exploding. If you're incompetent enough ignore the warning signs and cause a lipo to catastrophically fail, then you shouldn't be handling batteries at all.

The main downside with lipos is that they cause increase trigger contact arcing. This can be solved by installing as MOSFET. Overall, there's no reason why you should be afraid running lipos. It's the best choice for improving trigger response and will cost less than a large NIMH battery.

[Lone_Bullet.be]

It's a real shame that I need to correct some things in my first post ( long-time lurker )... For this, I apologise. Also, If I write down mistakes, please notify me. I try not to wrongly inform people.

mAh stand for "milli Ampère hour". It's an electrical term. Read it as the capacity of your battery. The battery's endurance / stamina, if you will. So, in a way it kind of is BB / battery life-time, but not with a 1/1 ratio.

To prove this: take a 1600mAh 7.4v Lipo, 11.1v LiPo, 7.2v NiMH, 8.4 NiMH and 9.6 NiMH. All of them are capable of delivering a current of 1600mA ( or 1.6 Amps ) in approximately one hour. But since the Voltage differs, the motor will run at a different speed with each different rated battery ( relatively... I'll come back to this. ) Since the motor runs at different speeds, the piston and nozzle with move at different speeds and thus the amount of BB's fed into the gun and shot out, will differ.
Thus, if you run 3day skirms, take a 2600mAH rated battery or higher.
If you run CQB with a safe-zone close by and short games, a 1000mAH battery will suffice.
Good to know: this is the rating that will lower quickly of you don't do maintenance to your batteries ( de-charge NiMH completely before recharging and balancing LiPo's ).

LiPo's are also rated with a C value. I don't know the name of it, but it stands for the maximum discharge current. These can be very high, 20-30Amps and higher, but they cannot deliver that for a long time, of course.
Because of this high discharge value, LiPo's are very powerful. See it as max. burst torque or acceleration. It makes the 7.4v LiPo behave like a 9.6v NiMH.
Why? Because it can supply the motor with all the current it needs, thus the motor will accelerate very fast to it's normal speed. It vastly reduces the AEG's trigger response.
NiMH have a very low C value, mostly not even mentioned on the battery itself.

Now, LiPo is in almost every way superior to NiMH and even more to NiCad.
This is why:
- It delivers more power ( endurance and acceleration ) in a smaller, although more venerable package.
- There are also more different kinds of packages: Stick, Block, 2 pannel, 3 pannel, 2 stick, 3 stick. Nimh and NiCad always contain tube-like cells. LiPo mostly have flat cells.
- They live much longer if you care for them.
- They are MUCH cheaper.

They do have certain points that may be troublesome for some people:
- They ARE vulnerable: Short-circuit or completely depleting your cells ( below 3v/cell ) will damage your battery. In some cases to the point of fire. That's the downside of being powerful. Protect your AEG with a fuse and LiPo under voltage protection ( both cheap ) if you're not confident. And place your battery INSIDE your AEG, protected by the body. Use good wire with good insulation and check them for damage before you use a LiPo.
- They DO require special chargers. Chargers with balancers that is. They make sure every cell is equally charged and do not overcharge. good ones are not cheap, but also not overly expensive, and you can charge almost every battery with them. Read the manual though.
- If you'd like to use a powerful ( anything above 7.4v 1200mAH 15C ) LiPo in long-therms, you'd want a mos-FETT installed to prevent the trigger contacts ( AEG trigger-switch ) from being burned or welded together. Certainly if you shoot in long bursts. A Mos-FETT is also cheap.

Want to convert your AEG from NiMH to LiPo?
- US$ 15-25 for the battery
- US$ 40-... for a decent charger
- US$ 10-... for the mosfet.
- US$ 10-... for the LiPo under voltage protection and fuse

[jangofett234]

Now, LiPo is in almost every way superior to NiMH and even more to NiCad.
This is why:
- It delivers more power ( endurance and acceleration ) in a smaller, although more venerable package.
- They live much longer if you care for them.
- They are MUCH cheaper.

They do have certain points that may be troublesome for some people:
- They ARE vulnerable: Short-circuit or completely depleting your cells ( below 3v/cell ) will damage your battery. In some cases to the point of fire. That's the downside of being powerful. Protect your AEG with a fuse and LiPo under voltage protection ( both cheap ) if you're not confident. And place your battery INSIDE your AEG, protected by the body. Use good wire with good insulation and check them for damage before you use a LiPo.
- They DO require special chargers. Chargers with balancers that is. They make sure every cell is equally charged and do not overcharge. good ones are not cheap, but also not overly expensive, and you can charge almost every battery with them. Read the manual though.
- If you'd like to use a powerful ( anything above 7.4v 1200mAH 15C ) LiPo in long-therms, you'd want a mos-FETT installed to prevent the trigger contacts ( AEG trigger-switch ) from being burned or welded together. Certainly if you shoot in long bursts. A Mos-FETT is also cheap.

Want to convert your AEG from NiMH to LiPo?
- US$ 15-25 for the battery
- US$ 40-... for a decent charger
- US$ 10-... for the mosfet.
- US$ 10-... for the LiPo under voltage protection and fuse[/QUOTE]


Well im not worried about power or fire rate and id rather not do moddifications to my gun or tear it apart and mess with the wiring.

So NiMH basicly is stronger then regular batteries but not as strong as LIPO.
Also, Nimh has to be completely drained before charging.

and if i want to run a lipo i have to buy a special charger, new gun wiring and a mosfet? seems like alot of money for somethnig i really dont need.

Most games of mine are CQB but some are field. I dont need more fps or a higher fire rate.

So based on these facts, is a lipo really worth all the money?

[Lone_Bullet.be]

Based on that I think it is not.
Tip: NiMH are quite expensive and go bad quickly when you don't care for them.
I don't really remember all the steps for good NiMH lifetime because I never really cared for them. Search for them !

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by Lone_Bullet.be

Based on that I think it is not.
Tip: NiMH are quite expensive and go bad quickly when you don't care for them.
I don't really remember all the steps for good NiMH lifetime because I never really cared for them. Search for them !

Wrong. NiMH are cheap, and easy to take care of.