G&G GR16 (clicking sound?!?!)

[scurvythepirate]

I know I am sorta a noob when it comes to Airsoft guns.
I orderd the G&G GR16 CAS a while ago, about in the middle of may. The gun had been working great, shooting fast and distant.
But about 3 weeks into owning the gun would half pull, even though I pulled all the way. So I was thinking the battery wasn't charged enough. So I go and charge my battery.
Next day, I plug in my battery and go to see if it works. Yet again it half pulls. But the trigger locks. My obnoxious brother seems to think, full auto and then it'll fix it. The full auto resulted in a fix.
The next day, I use the gun, and the battery seems to be dead WTF?!??!?! So again I go and charge it up, although this time when I try the gun it both half pulls and locks, even full auto cant fix it. So I come the assumption that my battery does not work (in the trash it goes).
The next day my brother and I go out to battle with a couple of out friends. This time I am using his MP5 Mini battery (kinda shit). The night before it worked. But the first shot results in a "click" noise. And no bb firing.

A couple days have passed and I am thinking my gun is broken, so I am going to need a gun doctor to fix it. Ugh. While my brother is out I use his TM M4 Battery, which works fine for his TM. My G&G half shoots and then the "clicking" continues.

To my airsoft knowledge I have learned this may be caused by a wire being pinched, the motor not working, piston etc. I have no Idea what the problem is but I will detail it for you. I pull the trigger all the way once of Semi I hear a "click". Is it the motor or something. I would open it up, but I am not familiar with these guns, and how to disassemble them, being different from Tokyo Marui's.
I have heard of people who try to dissasemble this AEG and have a terrible time trying to.

So this is what I am asking, if you are familiar the problem and how to fix it.
Plus how to disassemble the gun, (separating the receivers).

EDIT: I am aware of batteries needing a certian amount of voltage to pull back a motor.
Thanks for your help ASC members.

[theguy]

Originally Posted by ak47firepower

So I come the assumption that my battery does not work (in the trash it goes).

A new battery might help, but never, never throw batteries in the garbage...

Thats hazardous waste man...

[scurvythepirate]

Originally Posted by theguy

A new battery might help, but never, never throw batteries in the garbage...

Thats hazardous waste man...

Sorry for my choice of words, I didn;t actually throw it in the garbage, i use those words to explain a waist of money.
Sorry for the words, and yes a new battery is on the way.

I am starting to think its the fuse because my brother offered to put his battery in my gun, and the clicking continued, although it drained his battery. IDK what to do now

[ShelledPants]

Sounds like you locked up the mechbox. That clicking sound is your motor trying to turnover, but stopping on the locked gear. Do not continue to stick your batteries into the gun just to see if it will fire, holding it on full auto can cause your wires' coating to melt and this can cause havoc as it can short out on the metal of the mechbox.

If you have a 9.6 LARGE battery, try slapping that in and firing a round in semi. If it doesn't work, you will have to have the mechbox opened and reset. Then invest in a real battery. Mini batteries get finicky when shooting over 340fps in my experiences.

Best of luck.

[scurvythepirate]

Originally Posted by ShelledPants

Sounds like you locked up the mechbox. That clicking sound is your motor trying to turnover, but stopping on the locked gear. Do not continue to stick your batteries into the gun just to see if it will fire, holding it on full auto can cause your wires' coating to melt and this can cause havoc as it can short out on the metal of the mechbox.

If you have a 9.6 LARGE battery, try slapping that in and firing a round in semi. If it doesn't work, you will have to have the mechbox opened and reset. Then invest in a real battery. Mini batteries get finicky when shooting over 340fps in my experiences.

Best of luck.

Thank you so much! I guess I have to do that
Thanks again

[pilotguy]

Originally Posted by ak47firepower

Thank you so much! I guess I have to do that
Thanks again

Just be careful when trying to crank it over again. A) I doubt it will work, as I've tried this in the past. Harder to get things moving when they are already locked up tight. It's a momentum thing. Anyway, if it does work, I would still suggest opening it up to look at what the cause may have been. If it doesn't work, and you need to reset it, be careful as that spring is probably half cocked and under a lot of tension. Go slow and easy when opening and keep lots of pressure on that spring to eliminate or reduce the chance of your box exploding open on yeah. Just speaking from experience. PLEASE don't keep trying bigger and badder batteries to try and fix it after this as you may start stripping gears. Again, speaking from experience. Another thing you can do is a search on the ASC forums for related posts as someone has suggested a brilliant idea to pull back the anti-reversal latch without cracking open your box and that could save a lot of grief.


Good luck and let us know what you find, maybe some pictures too. I'm VERY interested as to what caused this for you.

Oh one more thing... r u FULLY squeezing the trigger in SEMI when you shoot. If not that can cause this problem, which can sometimes be remedied by switching to full auto then back to SEMI.

[Amoki]

Nah, mini-batteries do the job, I used to use them regularly on M120 electric guns before I was a lipo convert - on semi all the time too. The key is voltage (9.6V and above) and connector-type (Deans being ideal).

The stock G&G motor is a p.o.s, with maximum RPM of 25000 - this is considering a TM EG1000 turns at 28000. If you're using something like an old/crappy 8.4V 1100mah NiMH that doesn't supply enough current to the motor, your motor sort of gets cut-off before the Sector gear + cut-off lever returns to where they should be.

Suggestion? Get a new battery. Or don't fire on semi

[m102404]

Best guess from what's written here...could be something else altogether (i.e. short in wire, semi-broken electrical connector, etc...)...so take this with a grain of salt.

If your rifle was working well...and then started to not work well in semi, but still worked in full...then stopped working in semi, but sometimes in full...then not at all...I'd guess one or a combo of the following:

- your batteries are not taking a full charge (test with new battery, known good battery). Old batteries that have seen a lot of use...just don't work as well as fresh/new batteries.
- your motor is dying (there's no way to test this without some special equipment...you can only test under load and you need a baseline first)...test with a higher voltage + mAh battery while the motor is in the AEG. If it works...then it's your motor and/or switch. Running a higher V battery is a bandaid fix and probably won't last long.
- your switch is burned/burned out. This is a result of pushing a stiff spring with mediocre components and shooting a lot of semi. Working average/sub-average parts hard causes them to draw lots of power. For every semi shot the switch block arcs going in and coming out. Every arc oxidizes the contacts a little...and a build up of oxidization resists current flow. Then the motor is receiving less and less power and works harder and harder, gets hotter and hotter. Heat degrades the motor's magnets....causing it to get weaker (permanently), causing it to work harder...until it just can't pull the load anymore. High V batteries accelerate the wear.

Consider swapping the motor and either cleaning, or better yet replacing, the switch assembly. MOSFETs eliminate burning out your switch, but they're a whole other topic.

Consider swapping the gear set to a torque-up set. Due to the gear ratios that they run, they allow the battery/motor to operate more in their ideal performance range while still generating enough torque to pull heavy loads. It's like the granny gear on a bicycle...you don't have to work hard (you spin fast under light load), but you can drag your a** up that steep hill.

"Big" motors (i.e. Systema Magnum, Guarder Infinite Torque Up, G&P M140+) tend to use a lot of power. You'll find your mini batteries won't last as long as they used to.

With the above...consider down grading to a M110/M100 spring...the 10-30fps won't really matter and your stuff will last A LOT longer.

Best of luck,

Tys