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Old February 2nd, 2006, 16:49   #46
bean
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Yah the zero trigger is 153 american but aparently its well worth it. If you dont get it you eat sears which are expensive.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 01:12   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperChic
Quote:
Originally Posted by bean
If you plan to upgrade your vsr use a zero trigger. It has a piston and completely upgraded sears. I was recommended to do this since its really high quality and resolves all the problems they were initially having. Quantis informed me that the zero trigger is the way to go. I plan to slap a zero trigger 150sp spring and a spring guide in mine right away. A tightbore and new hopup are later.
Ive got a zero trigger on my APS2, made by first factory. I have to say its great quality. Unfortunatly its pricey, Ive seen it priced for $120-130 usd, luckely when I bought my APS2 it was already upgraded :-D
im curious with a zero trigger do you literally have zero lbs to release the sear? and if so why do you want zero resistance. do the real guns not usually have 3-5 lbs of trigger pull? im just getting in to sniping so I don’t know that much yet. sorry if im completely wrong.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 01:43   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTE. Pyle
Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperChic
Quote:
Originally Posted by bean
If you plan to upgrade your vsr use a zero trigger. It has a piston and completely upgraded sears. I was recommended to do this since its really high quality and resolves all the problems they were initially having. Quantis informed me that the zero trigger is the way to go. I plan to slap a zero trigger 150sp spring and a spring guide in mine right away. A tightbore and new hopup are later.
Ive got a zero trigger on my APS2, made by first factory. I have to say its great quality. Unfortunatly its pricey, Ive seen it priced for $120-130 usd, luckely when I bought my APS2 it was already upgraded :-D
im curious with a zero trigger do you literally have zero lbs to release the sear? and if so why do you want zero resistance. do the real guns not usually have 3-5 lbs of trigger pull? im just getting in to sniping so I don’t know that much yet. sorry if im completely wrong.
Its a very smooth pull, its far lighter than real steel, even with real steel you want to have a lighter trigger pull. If you have a stock trigger set for the APS2 you will want to get a zero trigger, much more smoother. Thats what I like about it, is the smoothness of the pull, and its lightness.

It all comes down to individual preference
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Old February 4th, 2006, 10:33   #49
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The actual trigger for the vsr is adjustable for stroke and trigger pull. Im not sure if the zero trigger is the same though i believe its just a light smooth pull.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 10:48   #50
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My CA M24 has a stiff trigger pull, it's fine when you are used to it, doesn't throw the shot off at all (because you have to learn to pull it back the right way), and I see it more as a safety feature than anything. Been times I'd cock it to take a shot, lose that shot cuz they moved, then leave it cocked either until I get to take the shot, or I'm heading back to the staging area, then I just let the BB fly wherever to to render it safe. Heavy trigger pull on it means that no branches will accidentally fire my gun. Also, my M700 (gas) has a nice trigger pull as well, much lighter though, but very smooth.

The Zero trigger is nice though, I'll give it that. And I've shot an upgraded VSR with a Zero trigger, felt odd to fire a sniper rifle made mostly of hollow plastic and much lighter than I'm used to, and I guess my only other thing is because of the construction and materials, it has a loud SPROING! sound when you shoot it. Because my M24 is all metal and solid composite stock, the spring sound is greatly reduced.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 16:15   #51
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Like I said the Zero trigger works well for me, I never had any accidental discharges nor have gotten any tree branches the the like inside the trigger guard. Unfortunatly with the APS2 SV there is no mechanical safety, the only safety there is, is your finger OFF the trigger, aint no rocket science. Again I havent had any issues with it being an extremely light pull :cheers:
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Old February 4th, 2006, 16:34   #52
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i took the saftey off my m24.
i dont need a saftey because im not a dumb retard that leaves the thing cocked and my finger on the trigs.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 16:36   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bean
If you plan to upgrade your vsr use a zero trigger. It has a piston and completely upgraded sears.
Since I've already fired someone else's VSR-10 G-Spec and found the trigger to be to my liking already, I'm not even thinking about that much of an upgrade. At the most I'm going to put a 120 spring in there and replace the trigger sear since that sear seems to break the easiest. On the other hand if I want to use it indoors :tup: I have to keep it under 350FPS which means I'm pushing it even if I put a 110 spring in there. Meh, doesn't take that much to change the spring out
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Old February 4th, 2006, 16:40   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsuru
Quote:
Originally Posted by bean
If you plan to upgrade your vsr use a zero trigger. It has a piston and completely upgraded sears.
Since I've already fired someone else's VSR-10 G-Spec and found the trigger to be to my liking already, I'm not even thinking about that much of an upgrade. At the most I'm going to put a 120 spring in there and replace the trigger sear since that sear seems to break the easiest. On the other hand if I want to use it indoors :tup: I have to keep it under 350FPS which means I'm pushing it even if I put a 110 spring in there. Meh, doesn't take that much to change the spring out

on a vsr?
i thought you have to replace the entire cylinder and everything?
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Old February 4th, 2006, 16:47   #55
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No you just drill out the little pin hoding the cylinder head on out. Unscrew it and bam you can salp the spring in.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 16:51   #56
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The safety on the CA M24 is useless anyways, not only does it not really work (doesn't work after a while, poor design) but it also makes the trigger pull very stiff and grindy feeling. My safety is my finger, works for me. As for sticks and what not getting in the trigger guard, hasn't happened to me yet, might never happen either, but I'm more comfortable knowing my gun wil only go off if I want it to go off. Also, I can tell if it's cocked by putting light presure on the trigger. Light pressure will either not move it (cocked) or will move it (not-cocked). Better than seeing if there resistance (uncocked) or no resistance (cocked) on the bolt/cylinder, since that'll just double load the BBs in the chamber.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 16:53   #57
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is your m24 a flutedbarrel?
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Old February 4th, 2006, 17:30   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wey ferro
is your m24 a flutedbarrel?
Yes. In case you are wondering, aside from looks, the only difference between the fluted barrel and the non-fluted barrel is the fluted M24 is 90g lighter. Aside from that, everything is the exact same inside and outside.
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Old February 4th, 2006, 17:36   #59
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And the other differance is the fluted barrel is sexyer than the standard barrel.

Fluted is the military version anyway.

Here mine

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Old February 4th, 2006, 17:40   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsuru
Quote:
Originally Posted by bean
If you plan to upgrade your vsr use a zero trigger. It has a piston and completely upgraded sears.
Since I've already fired someone else's VSR-10 G-Spec and found the trigger to be to my liking already, I'm not even thinking about that much of an upgrade. At the most I'm going to put a 120 spring in there and replace the trigger sear since that sear seems to break the easiest. On the other hand if I want to use it indoors :tup: I have to keep it under 350FPS which means I'm pushing it even if I put a 110 spring in there. Meh, doesn't take that much to change the spring out
You mean my VSR10? I think I'm just gonna put in a longer barrel and different silencer. Nothing else... yet. haha
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