October 23rd, 2014, 15:35 | #31 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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would be helpful to know what 'burst mosfet' is in that gun. There are several on the market, some are not mosfets... just burst controllers.
g&g are an average to good brand, I find their prices as new off the shelf to be high in canada compared to the high end pricing of g&p and vfc. If you're going to pay 400-450 for a g&g, why not 400-450 for a vfc or g&p which are a lot nicer. Just because it's used doesn't mean it's a bargain. Guns fail and the owner might not be aware of worn parts or imminent failure.. or maybe he DOES know and just wants to offload the gun. If the gun mechanically checks out, it's a fair price, but just be sure you aren't buying someone else's problem.
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
October 23rd, 2014, 15:38 | #32 |
go with the 1200mah stick/rectangle one..I have one and it fits into the crane stock...into a CM16..
I have a pair of 1300mah nunchuck too...they stick out of the stock..wont fit at all..but it will fit into my AK74 I would say go for full metal..I'm pretty weak on strength, but I can use a full metal AK for a while..you have a big chance of banging the gun onto different objects, so metal is just much better. Unless you go to big game events, I doubt you will carry your rifle for more than 1 hour..every game is like 20-50mins at normal drop in days.. Its mostly the price your are paying for a plastic body is just a few dollars short from a full metal..doesn't seem worth it.
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October 23rd, 2014, 19:30 | #33 |
FatJ
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I would absolutely recommend against buying used as your first gun unless it's from a reputable person (such as ASC classifieds). If you do buy used, test everything on the gun, make sure it feeds, make sure semi and full auto work, check for wobble between the stock and body and between the rail/foregrip and body, and check if the safety works. Even after all that you could still be buying a gun with wiring issues, internal gearbox issues, hop chamber issues, inner barrel issues, and many other things wrong.
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October 23rd, 2014, 19:56 | #34 |
Teddy is correct.
Don't buy a used gun unless you are ready to do your own work on it, ... because it could be a lemon. If you buy a new working gun from a dealer, you will have a happier life. |
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October 23rd, 2014, 19:57 | #35 |
This battery will fit in most buffer tubes:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html If that proves too long for your tastes look at this one: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html Generally, a width of about 21-22 mm will fit in most AEG buffer tubes. The 127mm length should allow you to set your stock at the second shortest length. I personally think this is a good compromise for a larger mAh battery. As has already been stated, 1200 mAh will not last a full day. Ordering from Hobby King and shipping via FedEx is not prohibitively expensive if and only if you order from the USA warehouse (all the links I have provided above represent product in stock at the USA warehouse). When you browse hobby lobby make sure you are looking at product listing for the USA warehouse unless you really want to get hosed on shipping. I think that the US warehouse can still send batteries via USPS but I may be wrong (the last order I placed was almost 1 year ago). Just do not under any circumstances accept any product shipped via UPS from outside of Canada because they have the most expensive customs brokers on the planet (can you say gouge boys and girls). Go with a metal receiver. End of Story. A plastic receiver will break sooner than you would like. Heck, most of the monkey metal receivers will break faster than any reasonable person would expect! You have no idea what a beasting an AEG will take until you get out and take part in a few skirms or longer MilSims. Spend a little extra money now to avoid spending slightly less money again sooner rather than later (it costs a lot of money to be cheap). And be extremely careful buying a used gun if you choose to go that route. Most used AEGs have 'only been gamed once' or 'only plinked in the basement' and have always been 'maintained by a professional gun doc' (there is no such thing as a pro gun doc - no regulated accreditation body exists). If you believe these claims then I have some beautiful cliff-side property to sell you. Caveat emptor. And just because an AEG is advertised in the ASC classified does not guarantee the honesty of the seller. I personally know of one very thoroughly used gun currently listed which was described as having been 'only gamed once'. It should also be noted that most sellers here on ASC charge way too much for their used AEGs; I guess they aren't aware of the concept of depreciation. Last edited by danhay; October 23rd, 2014 at 20:07.. |
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October 23rd, 2014, 20:20 | #36 |
Spot on post there Dan. Just to reiterate, avoid UPS like the plague - consider this a public service message.
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October 23rd, 2014, 20:21 | #37 |
USPS will not ship any lithium batteries internationally, only domestic and then there's a limit.
UPS does have expensive brokerage fees but you can bypass that by doing it yourself if you have a CBSA office in your area that handles low value shipments. Then you only pay the taxes but do have to spend some of your own time. I've done it multiple times. I agree on the used side, until you know how to take apart a gun and check for problems avoid buying used. I personally would not pay over 50% for anything used, doesn't matter what the description is. I went through that for years with RC. Last edited by waylander; October 23rd, 2014 at 20:23.. |
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October 23rd, 2014, 20:34 | #38 |
I know, buying a used gun can be hit and miss...I figured I could scout my options, so we agreed on meeting up so I can see it, feel it, etc. any tests that are imperative that I should perform? Any thing I have to look out for?
On the topic of batteries, I chose the global warehouse with a combined cost of 30$ for a battery, charger, and 4000 0.25 bb's via fedex. Is this a reasonable price? Or would it be cheaper on the western warehouse? Last edited by GodsLt; October 23rd, 2014 at 20:37.. |
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October 24th, 2014, 01:17 | #39 |
Do you know anyone you can take with you to check it out?
I just checked hobbyking and they only give you the option of UPS or Purolator to ship from the US. They also don't have BB's in their US warehouse. |
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October 24th, 2014, 03:36 | #40 |
How much sand CAN you fit in your vagina!?
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Airsoft guns are like used cars, once you drive them off of the lot they aren't worth nearly as much. Unless all work and installs are done by a reputable gun doc, then you're possibly walking into a bad situation. A gun cycling isn't proof of it working. You'll need to see the shim job, hear the motor and test performance. There's other little things, but way too many to mention. For your first gun, but something with a warrenty, unless the price is too good to pass up. Like new, half the price of it retail, with a box of mags, etc. That way you aren't out money if it shits the bed.
Airsoft isn't refined, especially when talking about the Canadian market. Pricing and availability are not always convenient, so you need to prioritize. For a gun, as long as it shoots straight, is reliable, and the quality and price are appropriate is step one. Pimp it out later. If it comes pimped out and cheap, look out, cheap shit breaks easy. The wrong batteries can swell, even burst into flames and destroy your gun, or just fry something, abd the wrong charger can fuck up your batteries and/or burn your house down. Everything has good ones and bad ones, from gear to accessories to guns and beyond. For every one good piece, there are five pieces of shit out there trying to entice you. Use crappy BBs, and you crack your nozzle, scratch your barrel, break your magazines. It goes on and on. Here's some points to consider: - EVERYONE who enters the sport on a budget overshoots their range. Quality over quantity everytime. If you cannot afford it, don't but it, or it'll cost you more long term. Prioritize your purchases, like gun and goggles first, then BDUs and vest, then boots and a radio, etc. Find the appropriate products AV'd buy them once you have the funds. - EVERYONE enters the sport with misconceptions, goes for cool over practical. Shitty camo won't hide you, cheap accessories will break and won't work, uncomfortable gear will ruin your experience, etc, etc. Some guys buy a 19 lb M14 EBR because they really want one, and then find out that it's too heavy for them. People buy odd guns and then can't find parts. It goes on and on. - Take the advice on here if you're smart. As you can see we are all from different areas of Canada, and yet we all say very similar, if not the same, things about starting out. Odds are we aren't wrong. We want you to enjoy the sport, not waste time and money like so many others. - Any gun is really going to end up costing you $500 or more no matter what. A top end airsoft gun is $2,000 - $3,500, so $500 is affordable, wether you have it now or not. Every gun will need magazines, batteries, a charger, a sight, BBs, etc, etc. So you may and well buy BBs that sail straight and won't jam your gun, magazines that'll feed properly and last, and a charger that'll so a proper balance charge. - Under $500 for a stock gun brand new, and your down to only a few decent choices. You don't create the budget, the sport demands it. - Never lessen quality of a purchase so you can stuff a few more cheap items on your order. Buy he reliable gun, get the the gear and extras later if you're short on cash. For the holidays and your birthday ask for gift cards to stores like DS Tactical. I hope this helps.
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I have developed a new sport called Airhard. Pretty much the same as Airsoft, except you have to maintain an erection... Last edited by Ricochet; October 24th, 2014 at 03:39.. |
October 24th, 2014, 16:45 | #41 | |
FatJ
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That is a great price for battery charger and bbs. But you should be buying 2 batteries, and I would bet money that the charger you're buying doesn't balance charge (even if it says it does), so your batteries won't last as long on a cheap charger like that. Also make sure you are buying Bio BBs, all the local fields require Bio only. |
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October 24th, 2014, 17:42 | #42 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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I'd argue you don't need to spend more than 1000$ to get a top end aeg, well built and reliable.
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
October 25th, 2014, 01:55 | #43 | ||
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I could ask one of those guys (they're all gun doc's) to come with me to check out the used G&G TR418 to make sure it's not a lemon... Until then, buck for buck, which one is better? The VFC or the G&G? The idea of EBB on the G&G makes it very appealing...but if in the long run the VFC will last longer...would it be a better pick? |
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October 25th, 2014, 02:15 | #44 |
VFC all day every day!
The G&G EBB is a gimmick and not worth it. Also by design I think it "robs power" from the gun (just like a supercharger on a car running off the cranks). Who is selling the VFC? I kind of know some of his crew, Yuu (Kevin) is one of the better ones IMO. It's actually a really low price, almost too low to be true... Used midcaps alone I'd say are probably worth ~$10 each depending on brand, also the 416 is one of the more "desirable" models (becuz HK fanboi).
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ಠ_ಠLess QQ more Pew Pew READY TO >> RACE |
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October 25th, 2014, 03:01 | #45 |
I told me the same thing...and he told me his wife got sick and tired of him having 10+ guns...so he's just trying to get rid of it. I played with Optix, goggles and turtle, among other regulars that I didn't have a chance to talk much to.
so vfc all the way? I thought the pneumatic G&G blowback was designed to NOT rob power from the gun? |
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