Umarex M416 pesky problems.

[EscapisT]

double post. sorry

[Gunny_McSmith]

dude... 1600mah is nothing... you'll burn the motor with that....

I was experiencing the same problem with my friend AEG, when he was too cheap to by a larger battery....

And dude... there's nothing to be ashamed off when your gun is worth 400$ and doesnt work.... mine is worth over 2K now, and still has some problems... but hey... its a G&P WOC.... LOL

[EscapisT]

Hey gunny, so wait I thought mAh just meant larger cells....

Dr.Duck from airsoftforum said:

"Larger can mean two things: larger cells (more mah) or more cells (more voltage).
More mah will allow the battery to hold a charge longer, while more cells (voltage) will increace the rate of fire."

I don't understand why my javelin m4 runs perfectly fine on the 1600mah 9.6v and the VFC hk wont even fire.

What size battery would you suggest? I would prefer to stick with nimh batteries.

http://torontoairsoft.com/product.php?id_product=1047 What about this? I'm assuming it should fit in the 416 crane stock... and is 2300mah enough?



EDIT: Piston is being pulled back 80% of the way, then the gearbox ceases to cycle.

[Gunny_McSmith]

MAH is the ''torque'' ..... well it helps the torque.... Maybe your VFC motor in there is cheapers... or not strong enough to run on 1600 mah... maybe your spring it too strong for that... etc...

A gun should never run on 1600mah IMO

Yes that battery should work... but why not get 9.6v?

I think they are some 9.6V here on the forum... or you can always buy them in HongKong!

PS: more voltage = Faster ROF, and more MAH = more torque....

[Danke]

Does your stock look like this?
http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...ne&catid=&cat=
If so this is a nice battery
http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...ne&catid=&cat=
Sold out in that link but maybe still at Airsoft Parts Canada check his stock when the site's back up. http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...or_maintenance

It leaves the buffer tube clear so it's easier to compress the stock or put a controller in.

[EscapisT]

Drake, my stock is not 100% like the one you linked, but it is a crane stock, and does have 2 compartments for the nunchuck batteries im using ATM +1 extra compartment (the buffer tube itself.... As to whether or not all crane stocks are the same in terms of space for battery storage, i'm not sure.

Gunny, I'll try swapping out the motor from my javelin m4 to my hk416. It doesn't really make sense though, because my javelin shoots at 380 fps, and my 416 is rated at 335 :S And somehow my javelin works perfectly fine with the 1600mah 9.6v..... That leaves everything but the motor... i'm positive.

[Gunny_McSmith]

Originally Posted by EscapisT

Drake, my stock is not 100% like the one you linked, but it is a crane stock, and does have 2 compartments for the nunchuck batteries im using ATM +1 extra compartment (the buffer tube itself.... As to whether or not all crane stocks are the same in terms of space for battery storage, i'm not sure.

Gunny, I'll try swapping out the motor from my javelin m4 to my hk416. It doesn't really make sense though, because my javelin shoots at 380 fps, and my 416 is rated at 335 :S And somehow my javelin works perfectly fine with the 1600mah 9.6v..... That leaves everything but the motor... i'm positive.

Please dont swap the motors... jsut buy the proper battery.....

BTW: FPS doesnt really mean anything... you might have a bad seal in your hk416 = lower fps... even though the spring if the same strength...

[EscapisT]

Originally Posted by Gunny_McSmith

Please dont swap the motors... jsut buy the proper battery.....

BTW: FPS doesnt really mean anything... you might have a bad seal in your hk416 = lower fps... even though the spring if the same strength...

If i had gone out to buy a new battery I would have gotten home, plugged it in and gotten no result... It turns out the motor was dead.

I tried the 416 motor in the javelin and sure enough, it was dead.... Then to make sure nothing else was wrong with my 416 I stuck the javelin motor in there and I am finally able to try this thing now.

It was fishy to me, because the javelin has a stronger spring in it and yet it ships with a 9.6v 1600mah battery which is supposed to handle it. I'm still going to get the battery danke linked or something as similar as i can find. Damn, I'm also going to need a new motor.

I still do not see how Umarex (or VFC) could ship a gun with a dead motor. Should I contact them? Or the store I bought it from?

[sushicake]

Usually batteries that come with guns are shit and should be thrown out. Unless they come with intellect batteries.

[THe_Silencer]

Originally Posted by EscapisT

If i had gone out to buy a new battery I would have gotten home, plugged it in and gotten no result... It turns out the motor was dead.

I tried the 416 motor in the javelin and sure enough, it was dead.... Then to make sure nothing else was wrong with my 416 I stuck the javelin motor in there and I am finally able to try this thing now.

It was fishy to me, because the javelin has a stronger spring in it and yet it ships with a 9.6v 1600mah battery which is supposed to handle it. I'm still going to get the battery danke linked or something as similar as i can find. Damn, I'm also going to need a new motor.

I still do not see how Umarex (or VFC) could ship a gun with a dead motor. Should I contact them? Or the store I bought it from?

Go back to the store and see if they can replace it for you. If not, then there are a lot of good motors you can replace it with for around 30ish bucks.

[DarkAngel]

TM EG700 High Torque Motor - 25-30 bucks

Sanyo 9.6v 3200mah Large Batt - 25 bucks
Or
Sanyo 9.6v 2400mah Mini Batt - 25 bucks

If those dont pull it, youve got a shimming issue.

Nuff said.

[EscapisT]

hey guys.... i am so hard headed, i admit it. You guys were right... it was the battery... I went and got myself an intellect 9.6v which works damn well... put the old motor back in and it runs impeccably.... I guess the motor in the javelin requires less power and thats why it worked with the cheap crap battery... but the intellect cycles the gun pretty darn fast compared to the javelin battery. Now, before anything it's only 1600mah but im a tactial shooter and not a happytrig.. In a 5 hour game i barely went through 300 rounds. That problem is solved. I mean i'm sure im not the only one using 1600mah right? Im reading everywhere and everyones saying it just means the time a battery can hold its effective charge.

The gears are self shiming, and i did the ol "spin the gears in the box manually" test and there is no resistance whatsoever. They spin real nice. I give massive kudos to vfc for that because they did an awesome job.

As far as upgrades go, I have yet to chrono it. The gun out of the box is rated at 330-350 fps.... since, ive installed a 6.01 tightbore which works flawlessly.... I put a bb in and it has such a perfect fit in the barrel. To test the bb-barrel match, I rolled a bb in and blocked the other end with my finger. I then let it roll down the barrel with my finger still plugging the barrel. Just a simple test to see how much air escapes around the bb. It rolls down super slowly and smooth as glass... great buy for 40$, madbull ultimate tbb has to be the first upgrade on any gun aside from a good, solid hop chamber (kingarms enhanced metal FTW) and bucking... I then tried the same test with the stock barrel, end plugged with my finger, and it rolled down with no air resistance whatsoever, the fit was so loose.

I would like to throw in the g&g polycarb pistonhead with bearings i ordered to minimize wear on my mechbox and possibly increase ROF and maybe fps. Theoretically, wouldnt it be easier for the gun to pull it back as well as easier for the spring to push it forward?Afterall, the polycarb piston is lighter than the aluminium one, so I dunno... im a long way from an expert hence your duty to teach me the tricks of the trade :P. -So Would you do that or keep the aluminium one and do the ol sorbothane/foam trick? The sound of the metal one just beats me in the gut knowing my mechbox is taking that.

Please keep in mind this is in a system which will have an m120 spring.

[THe_Silencer]

You should replace the metal piston head. Only issue that I mentioned before is that its red threadlocked onto the piston, so it can take an inhuman amount of effort to remove. It's worth it IMO since your AEG will be quieter and your gearbox shell will be under less stress. I'm not sure about your choice of G&G for the pistonhead, since I head there were compression issues. Try the G&G pistonhead with the stock VFC O-ring and tell us how it goes. I have only replaced 5 things internally on my VFC SR15: the motor with a g&P M160 because its sucks, the pistonhead for a metal one, the hopup with a Modify because the stock hopup one does not hold still with a stiff King Arms bucking, the inner barrel for a 550mm Prometheus tightbore, and the wiring for a MOSFET equipped one. Other than that I don't see anything internally that a VFC AEG will NEED to be replaced unless it breaks.

[EscapisT]

Originally Posted by THe_Silencer

You should replace the metal piston head. Only issue that I mentioned before is that its red threadlocked onto the piston, so it can take an inhuman amount of effort to remove. It's worth it IMO since your AEG will be quieter and your gearbox shell will be under less stress. I'm not sure about your choice of G&G for the pistonhead, since I head there were compression issues. Try the G&G pistonhead with the stock VFC O-ring and tell us how it goes. I have only replaced 5 things internally on my VFC SR15: the motor with a g&P M160 because its sucks, the pistonhead for a metal one, the hopup with a Modify because the stock hopup one does not hold still with a stiff King Arms bucking, the inner barrel for a 550mm Prometheus tightbore, and the wiring for a MOSFET equipped one. Other than that I don't see anything internally that a VFC AEG will NEED to be replaced unless it breaks.

Hm, wierd, because I actually removed the piston head quite easily once i managed to get the mechbox open.... I then put it back on with loctite blue. As for motors, I can only see 2 things that can suck about them: speed and torque. I mean, as long as it'll handle an m120 and shoot above 15rps, ill be happy. Other than that Im guessing they are all of equal durability, right?

So you kept the stock spring? Because I see the sr-15 shoots 340fps, like mine, out of the box. Also, why did you chose to go with a metal piston head? I heard that the only advantage is they are more durable. Personally, I'd rather replace the piston head as opposed to the gearbox. The mosfet chip does sound tempting, but id have to look more into it.