January 12th, 2011, 19:56 | #31 |
At the end, do you recommend this GBBR? I'm a little scared now, even if I know good gun docs.
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January 14th, 2011, 20:44 | #32 |
Yes, the nozzle is a bit weak but I think other may come and Airsoft Buddy might have the spare shortly.
I'll try to use an M14 one, The PDW and M14 are the same and the G36 uses the exact same Hop up block as the PDW so I think the M14 should work too. Plus there should be CO² mags soon enough... will keep me busy before the SR25 |
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January 19th, 2011, 11:33 | #33 |
Hello all, I have a couple of questions about the WE G39C, is it normal for the gun to exhale out gas at the end of the mag? It certainly seems to blow out a lot.
Does anyone have any chrono numbers of the WE G39C running on Duster HFC 134a? I'm thinking for indoor target shooting Duster may be better to breath than propane. Will silicon oil be fine to lube the bolt and bolt tray? Are there any parts that should be well maintained? |
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January 19th, 2011, 20:00 | #34 |
So for the bolt carrier and bolt tray silicon is ok, for the trigger system however prefer some mechanical oil.
For gaz exhaust it's normal. It does that on end of gaz tank and it does use a lot of gaz, the bolt carrier being very heavy. Mine shoots around 390 by 20/22°C on propane. As for propane toxicity I said it a lot : yeah it stinks, yeah it can toxic... if you breath a lot in a complete sealed room ! There is nothing harmful with the amount we use, you breath worse each time you walk on the street. |
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January 24th, 2011, 20:18 | #35 |
Ok, I got the M14 nozzle which is almost entirely the same, I just need to modify a bit the nozzle stoppers (the two rails parts screwed on the bolt carrier) and it should work, I'll finish it this evening and test it.
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January 26th, 2011, 05:23 | #36 |
February 2nd, 2011, 11:38 | #37 |
after a full dismantling, smoothing out mold burrs with file, and a thorough lubing with gun oil and silicone lubricant, i commenced break-in to start seating the bolt tray and impact parts to begin wear-in. i inspected the nozzle and found it quite sturdy and solid. i did run into a few misfeeds which i suspect is due to initial break-in but i can't see how the nozzle would shatter unless there was a catastrophic BB jam and where a direct impact from the tray could commence a crack, then weakness in that part would eventually lead to part failure.
one thing i did prior - i rebuilt the safety latch assembly in the trigger assembly. i found the set screws in the larger latch gear needed tightening and proper teeth matching so that the latch aligned more truthfully to the safe/semi/auto designations. a nice lubing with gun oil as well to boot to finish things off. a few tidbits and quirks though: -it's a bit cumbersome to pull the charging handle prior to setting the safety latch on full safe - no biggie. -i removed the BB feeder safety latch from the mag to continue dry firing - however, i may elect to put it back. -the mag probably has around 40-45 good burst of semi-auto fire before performance deflation --- too bad the capacity is only 30 - the realism is top notch. that's it for now. so far i'm impressed with this GBBR. can't wait to field it. anyone now if any of the AEG parts will fit? top rail? RAS?
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February 2nd, 2011, 11:55 | #38 |
Sounds like you really know what you're doing which is awesome... However I wouldn't suggest the use of any actual fire-arms related lubricants.
They're meant to penetrate actual metals and could very easily be detrimental to your Orings and seals. |
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February 2nd, 2011, 12:09 | #39 |
hi amos - i'm always in a process of learning!
i used the gun oil specifically for the trigger assembly - but yes i agree, with the gun oil's break-down properties ... just using for initial break-in, which is crucial for a piece like this with metal parts banging against each other! after some break-in, then it's time dismantle again, clean and re-lube with jig a loo or something that metal and rubber safe but viscous enough to remain on! GBBR's get messy quick ...oh man, but that recoil is intoxicating
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February 2nd, 2011, 12:31 | #40 | |
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full G&P parts, I converted it to a fullsized G36, inclusive 6.01 inner barrel from ratech.
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February 2nd, 2011, 12:45 | #41 | |
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I'd recommend a Viscous Molybdenum grease for the trigger area and a Silicon lubricant for all the air seal areas Make sure you clean off all your O-rings and seals with warm soapy water after you're done breaking it in. |
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February 2nd, 2011, 17:46 | #42 |
it was bound to happen, and it did- i did my first mag rebuild, after noticing blow back would fizzle after 10 shots or so ... it's an interesting 3 chamber design whereby the only 2 0-rings are used ... could be for more even pressure and sealing integrity. i havent checked for leaks yet. we'll see.
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February 3rd, 2011, 11:52 | #43 | |
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how did this end up?
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February 5th, 2011, 16:42 | #44 |
It ended up a fail : the M14 nozzle exhaust hole is too high, Airsoft buddy will have more shortly but it's still a fail
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February 6th, 2011, 01:49 | #45 |
Hey guys
I noticed that sometimes, some gas exhale through the barrel. it was a good 3 second hiss after i emptied a magazine. Also does anyone have video or link for disassembling the bolt carrier/assembly? |
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