Airsoft Canada
http://triggerairsoft.com/shop/

Go Back   Airsoft Canada > Information Center > Newbie Tank
Home Forums Register Gallery FAQ Calendar
Retailers Community News/Info International Retailers IRC Today's Posts

Deans Connectors

:

Newbie Tank

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old August 20th, 2009, 02:06   #16
turok_t
 
turok_t's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Thanks for all your replies. So today was my first day firing an AEG. I was even a bit startled when I fired my first shot since I wasn't expecting it to be that loud.

Anyways, Im using the Tamiya connectors now and it seems to be okay, though I have nothing to compare it to since it's my first time firing an AEG. If I upgrade to Deans connector/clone of the teams from Dealextreme, will I see or feel any improvements when firing?
turok_t is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 02:09   #17
Amos
 
Amos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Japan
Deans =

Faster trigger response, rate of fire and slightly improved battery life

And a connection that wont come un-done during a game lol
__________________
Custom Builds:
FA3674U
Krinkov
G3SD6
Amos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 02:11   #18
turok_t
 
turok_t's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amos View Post
Deans =

Faster trigger response, rate of fire and slightly improved battery life

And a connection that wont come un-done during a game lol
Thanks Amos... Well, I havent really soldered anything before, so im a bit nervous. Is it difficult to do? Do I just pick up any solder and the roll of wires (I forgot what this type of wire is called) at Home Depot?
turok_t is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 02:14   #19
Erennert
A minor, using dad's ID
 
Erennert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Should be called solder , pronounced Sodder, if i remember correctly. If your that uneasy, im sure you know someone that can use it properly.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frozen Tex View Post
Is there a Cansoft Banhammer with a clear plastic shaft? And will it be compatible with full metal/wood Banhammers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamarine View Post
I'm a sniper.

Because I'm fat and can't run fast.
Erennert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 02:25   #20
turok_t
 
turok_t's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erennert View Post
Should be called solder , pronounced Sodder, if i remember correctly. If your that uneasy, im sure you know someone that can use it properly.

Well, I dont really know too many people around. If I do ask someone to do it, i know they are going to charge me like hell. Might as well learn how to do it now so I can use this skill forever:

"Teach a man how to catch a fish instead of catching the fish for him"

I was dead nervous when carving a rail into my gun, but I was able to manage it. Soldering shouldnt be too hard...
turok_t is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 04:47   #21
Styrak
 
Styrak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Send a message via MSN to Styrak
Nah man, you did that rail. Compared to that, soldering is child's play.
__________________

Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services
Styrak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 10:55   #22
Doombringer
 
Doombringer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Plateau, Montreal
Soldering isn't hard. Just get a decent Soldering Station (I have a Hakko 936) and make sure that when you cut your batteries wires, you don't short them by accident. You'll be surprised to see the spark if it happens (with li-pos). Ni-MH aren't that bad. Also, make sure to tin your connectors first, then heat your connectors to prevent cold joints. Don't heat too long or your plastic will melt. You should solder with a second connector connected to the one you are soldering, it makes them looser and easier to plug\unplug afterwards.

You can find some soldering tutorials on youtube, search for some audio cable soldering tutorials, it's the same principles.

Good luck!
Doombringer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 11:09   #23
m102404
Tys
 
m102404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Toronto
- Get a good hot soldering gun/stick (55W+). The hotter it gets, the less time you need to melt the solder (the items you are soldering can absorb a lot of heat if you heat slowly...and it's not good for batteries). Turn it down inbetween things if you need to fiddle with stuff for a little bit (helps with oxidation/scaling). A wet sponge is good for cleaning off extra solder from the tip...I use a wet cotton rag balled up and just swipe the tip when I'm done a joint.

- When doing exposed connectors (like DEANS)...I've gotten into the habit of doing one wire (tin connector, cut/strip/tin wire, position shrink wrap, solder connection)...then doing the other one. Pretty much dummy proof so you can short the battery.

- also, before I do the other wire, I'll position the shrink wrap of the first wired and shrink it into place....that way, even if you slip or happen to touch the bridge the connection with tip of the soldering gun, you probably won't short anything.

- tin both the wire/connector separately...then melt them together. Too little is no good...but you don't need blobs of solder though.

- as long as you're not going to short anything (i.e. do one at a time, protected by shrink wrap), you can file the joint a little after you're done if you have any spikes/bumps that will cut through the shrink wrap.

- using the other end of the connector is a good tip

- if it's not working well...you can always stop, regroup and try again before you start melting stuff (i.e. shielding, connector bodies).

Get extra stuff (wire/connectors/shrink wrap)...practice making a couple for charger extensions, size converters (i.e. DEANS to Large, Large to small...really handy for emergency situations at games), etc... By the time you're done those, you'll be more than ready to do up your gun.

Best of luck.

Tys
m102404 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 16:10   #24
turok_t
 
turok_t's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Hey thanks for all the tips Tys! When you say "shorting" do you mean that the black wire shouldnt be touching the red wire?

Also, when i prepare the wires to be tinned, how do I only cut the sheath of the wire without the wire itself??

Quote:
Originally Posted by m102404 View Post
- Get a good hot soldering gun/stick (55W+). The hotter it gets, the less time you need to melt the solder (the items you are soldering can absorb a lot of heat if you heat slowly...and it's not good for batteries). Turn it down inbetween things if you need to fiddle with stuff for a little bit (helps with oxidation/scaling). A wet sponge is good for cleaning off extra solder from the tip...I use a wet cotton rag balled up and just swipe the tip when I'm done a joint.

- When doing exposed connectors (like DEANS)...I've gotten into the habit of doing one wire (tin connector, cut/strip/tin wire, position shrink wrap, solder connection)...then doing the other one. Pretty much dummy proof so you can short the battery.

- also, before I do the other wire, I'll position the shrink wrap of the first wired and shrink it into place....that way, even if you slip or happen to touch the bridge the connection with tip of the soldering gun, you probably won't short anything.

- tin both the wire/connector separately...then melt them together. Too little is no good...but you don't need blobs of solder though.

- as long as you're not going to short anything (i.e. do one at a time, protected by shrink wrap), you can file the joint a little after you're done if you have any spikes/bumps that will cut through the shrink wrap.

- using the other end of the connector is a good tip

- if it's not working well...you can always stop, regroup and try again before you start melting stuff (i.e. shielding, connector bodies).

Get extra stuff (wire/connectors/shrink wrap)...practice making a couple for charger extensions, size converters (i.e. DEANS to Large, Large to small...really handy for emergency situations at games), etc... By the time you're done those, you'll be more than ready to do up your gun.

Best of luck.

Tys
turok_t is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 16:31   #25
Mitchell12
vision impaired
 
Mitchell12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St.John's, NL
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/

Great site.

with a simple job like that you really have absoloutley nothing to worry about, it's very basic. Just expect to burn yourself alot. I know I did as a self taught kid back in grade 4 or 5 but it teaches you to not get complacent lol.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAngrySniper View Post
Simultaneous climax makes me warm and fuzzy all over
Mitchell12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 16:41   #26
m102404
Tys
 
m102404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Toronto
Yeah....for the battery...doesn't hurt the gun side. But for the battery side...it's not good. Ruined a $100 PTW battery because I was mucking about late at night and shorted the pack. You cannot move faster than electricity...so take steps to insure you don't make a mistake.

Get a good pair of wire strippers.
m102404 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 17:02   #27
Mitchell12
vision impaired
 
Mitchell12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St.John's, NL
Quote:
Originally Posted by m102404 View Post
Yeah....for the battery...doesn't hurt the gun side. But for the battery side...it's not good. Ruined a $100 PTW battery because I was mucking about late at night and shorted the pack. You cannot move faster than electricity...so take steps to insure you don't make a mistake.

Get a good pair of wire strippers.
Good point, a good work around (as I'm sure you know now) is to tape up or shrink wrap any open connections.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAngrySniper View Post
Simultaneous climax makes me warm and fuzzy all over
Mitchell12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 20th, 2009, 19:24   #28
coach
aka coachster
 
coach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: T dot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitchell12 View Post
Good point, a good work around (as I'm sure you know now) is to tape up or shrink wrap any open connections.
I just avoid stripping the insulation on both sides prior to having one side soldered to the connector.
coach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 21st, 2009, 12:31   #29
Goge
 
Goge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Toronto Ontario
Send a message via MSN to Goge
Thanks guys just ordered 20; two sets. I've been looking at these connectors for a while and man have they always been expensive. Now I have enough to convert all my collection for $12 and make my own conversion connectors Woot!
__________________
he who sleep with itchy butt, wake with smelly finger.
Goge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 21st, 2009, 15:19   #30
turok_t
 
turok_t's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
okay guys, im going to order some deans from http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10788 and grab and soldering iron from home depot this weekend. So i just want to confirm, male connector on the GUN, female connector on the BATTERY and male connector on the CHARGER? Does that sound about right??
turok_t is offline   Reply With Quote
ReplyTop


Go Back   Airsoft Canada > Information Center > Newbie Tank

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Airsoft Canada
http://triggerairsoft.com/shop/

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 13:39.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.