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July 10th, 2009, 00:35 | #16 |
formerly Sepulcrum
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Personally I wouldn't trust anything from CT or any other store like that. Airsoft parts (the link i posted) is located in toronto (i'm 99% certain of this) so if you really can't wait you may be able to pickup.
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July 10th, 2009, 00:54 | #17 |
The lowest weight they would have is probably 10wt which is good. I just bought some from my local hobby shop in 25wt, which is a little heavy but still OK for general use.
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July 10th, 2009, 00:54 | #18 |
I know the seals we use in Paintball are easily destroyed by petroleum baased solvents, we actually use Air tool oil as it is essentially an air tool, would this work in airsoft as well?
Air tool is cheap and readily available at Princess Auto CT and many home fix it stores. It's Not petro based and works fine for paintball applications, but once again, would it be suitable for airsoft seals? Mod |
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July 10th, 2009, 01:05 | #19 |
Really appreciate all this info guys, thanks Styrak and ur endless knowledge of lube XD
and i think Mod might be onto something check wat it says about air tool lube, this may be perfect for the Escort, metal and o-rings. Here Any specific brand u'd recommend mod?
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July 13th, 2009, 01:12 | #20 |
* Age Verifier status suspended *
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KYJ... Hands Down...
Oh wait.... THAT gun.
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Certified Sniper Clinic Instructor and Counter Sniper Sentinel Arms Customs - Specializing In Unique, One of a kind guns |
July 13th, 2009, 01:21 | #21 |
Can't fix my own guns. Willing to fix yours.
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Don't use silicone oil, thats only for seals and Orings and stuff, use real grease, non petroleum based, because that will stay on the surfaces, oil will just run off
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July 14th, 2009, 22:55 | #22 | |
Quote:
Mod |
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July 15th, 2009, 01:11 | #23 |
Hey Mod, are you following me?
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July 19th, 2009, 19:47 | #24 | |
XD LOL
but yeah, seriously all, thanks for the help, it looks like im going to import some silicone oil as it is actually cheaper that way. I've actually been recommended by a senior user of classics to try this. It looks quite promising. The ingredients are pretty basic, and doesn't look like it will hurt the o-rings. If you're afraid of using it, just use silicone oil, but it was recommended to be used on the more tough to stay lubed parts such as the bolt and the cocking rod. Quote:
Also regarding silicone, in my search for the perfect lube, i've learned why I should use the lighter weight as sugested by Styrak. Over time silicone will build up gunk and eventually need to be replaced like most lubes. The heavier the oil, the faster the gunk builds up. It may just be common knowledge, but it's something new to me and hopefully helpful to someone else.
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July 19th, 2009, 20:20 | #25 |
Local bike shops should have some lightweight silicon oil for sale.
I was also looking into that 3in1 silicon oil and as stated, it did contain petroleum. I never go by what the website says for CT or HH anymore, I just read the labels now.
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"Hey I'm the first one to say its a great country but its a straaaaange culture. This is a place where gun store owners are given a list of stolen credit cards but not a list of CRIMINALS and MANIACS. And now they're thinking of banning toy guns...AND THEY'RE GONNA KEEP THE F**KING REAL ONES!" -George Carlin 1937 - 2008 (RIP buddy) |
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July 19th, 2009, 21:35 | #26 |
I wish it said it on the labels, i had to look it up on the web (CDC or something or other).
I checked my local bike shop, I thought, hmm they should have it! But no gots they got some wax stuff or something that he said they put on chains that goes on wet, but then the wetness evaporates leaving it lubed or something, it looks interesting, will update when i find out more about it.
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July 19th, 2009, 22:08 | #27 |
Alrighty, i searched for those lubes I found at the shop.
They seem to hold quite a bit of promise, Wax Lube I'm not sure the difference between wet and dry but I think i'd prolly give dry a chance, lemme know if you guys try this on your moving parts, i'll try them out myself and see how it goes.
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