400+ FPS JG ver. 2 Mechbox Survivability?

[Con Murder]

SNK when you do put in sorbos post if it quiets the gun, my JG M4 dosn't get gamed that often so I am not worried about it being damaged yet. Its at about 400fps and I do think it needds the sorbo but I wanna know if it quiets it as well?

[Nova316]

Sorbo quiets the gun quite a bit, if u get both the MASK and the Sorbo on the cylinder head u get a quiet Pfft sound rather then the whack sound. Theres a very noticeable difference and most the sound only comes from the motor.

[Con Murder]

Oh sweet! That means I won't be found!!! Ha ha!

[ginnz]

i have a 2008 m4 sir, im running a 11.1v lipo, and have 15000+ bb's through it without a problem. very reliable so far.

[coach]

Originally Posted by Con Murder

Oh sweet! That means I won't be found!!! Ha ha!

we'll just listen for the motor whine then.

[SuperCriollo]

Originally Posted by ginnz

i have a 2008 m4 sir, im running a 11.1v lipo, and have 15000+ bb's through it without a problem. very reliable so far.

woooooo

[SHÖCK]

Nova put a sorbo in one of my old G36s. It does soften the sound a bit. I actually didn't like it that much as it made the report of the gun sound strange. I kind of like the "rat-a-tat-tat" of a regular piston/nozzle head slamming.

[Mitchell12]

Originally Posted by SNK

Nova put a sorbo in one of my old G36s. It does soften the sound a bit. I actually didn't like it that much as it made the report of the gun sound strange. I kind of like the "rat-a-tat-tat" of a regular piston/nozzle head slamming.

That sound is impact, Impact is obviously bad for mechanical parts. I know what you mean though. The thud is nicer, I'm pleased with my sorbo though. Gives me a little piece of mind even though I'm running a V3

[xsive2x]

Is a bit conSCREWD(cause that is what will happen to YOU !) :banghead: I purchased a JG SR 25. It shot 395FPS. My gun tech told me to detune it right away because the stock gears can't take it and brake, not just brake but tear up the gear box as well. He had exactly the same gun, it broke horribly very soon after he got it. Lessons learned on some one else's dime or what. Then I began reading reviews, and all the 400 FPS JG SR 25 broke very quickly after the first few uses. This is true of most guns. Have them checked by a trusted gun tech for the upgraded parts to be installed at your expense. Or doun graded so you can at least play with it for a while.

Motors batteries all need to fit into a certain formula to live. In my case it was a very short time to :infantry::x: Tyhen comaes the = :banghead:

[ThunderCactus]

Firstly, necropost
Second, It's not 400fps that's breaking the mechbox, it's the shitty gears. Most parts, even stock, these days can handle 400fps. But cheap gears will be cheap and break.

[Cliffradical]

Even then, shimming and engagement has a huge effect on overall wear. Under-shimming is hard on the motor, wears the gears brutally, and sounds terrible, where over-shimming is hard on the teeth, risks skipping, and sounds terrible.
A good shim job combined with a good motor (esp. with a mosfet) can squeeze a lot of life out of terrible gears, so the overall lifespan of a gearbox whether tip-top or chinatastic ultimately relies most heavily on shimming and AOE correction.

As for gearboxes blowing out, the spring power is a big deal, and the quality of the shell itself has a lot to do with that, but maybe not as much as many people think.
You've got this hunk of metal and plastic (piston and piston head) being pulled back and slamming into this other hunk of metal and plastic over and over again.
Think about a Newton's cradle, only the force is always unidirectional (no back swing).

Your piston and piston head are one singular hunk of mass working together to blast your cylinder head forward as hard as they can. Your gearbox shell is keeping your cylinder head from doing that. In the best case, your gearbox shell and cylinder head will both be well-cut to mate with each other in a way which leaves very little room for the cylinder head to wiggle around when struck. Your piston will also be well cut and fitted, resulting in as little wobble as possible.
In this best case, the maximum amount of inertial force will be transferred by the piston directly forward, in a straight line, through the cylinder head (losing some due to the cylinder head's own mass/ rubber brake/ sorbo pad etc), and then bled off as stress on the gearbox's arches and reinforcements. This means that the nozzle and hopup can work independently and do their job effectively, and the gears do what they do without sharing the 'conversation' about air compression.

In a lesser gearbox, however, the cylinder head may be held only by the pins within the 'cradle' for the cylinder head, creating 'hot spots' for stress on the cradle where there are no reinforcements present, eventually causing a blowout. Likewise, if all of the stress is transferred directly into the front plate of the shell and the retention pins aren't doing any work, you'll eventually get a blowout. In the third case, where the cylinder head is of low quality/ poor matching with the shell/ made out of that gummy translucent white plastic, the cylinder head will have (or develop) play within the shell, and you'll end up with the cylinder head desperately trying to escape the punishment offered by the piston, working itself loose, causing a blowout.

When you're buying one of these systems (AEG), a failure is inevitable. A blowout is inevitable. It's only a matter of time.
When you purchase and install higher quality parts (from the outset or aftermarket), you are adding time to your 'failure clock'. Still though, you can put many more hours on that countdown to doom if even the 'worst' parts are aligned properly and cared for.
The inverse is where top quality parts are installed poorly or with too much confidence in their strengths used to justify sloppy procedures.

Top-notch (re)installation of 60% quality parts can make for a 90% gun, top-notch (re)installation of 90% quality parts can make a 115% gun.
Half-assed (re)installation of any parts reduces any gun's quality by at least 30%.

Source: bedraggled, wild-eyed rental tech.

[ThunderCactus]

My point is, you're more likely to strip a cheap set of gears than break a mechbox shell these days.
Even the stock shells now are MUCH tougher than the old marui/CA/guarder shells.
Breaks still occur, but are far less common than they used to be.

[lurkingknight]

the shells you have to be careful of are the direct marui clones and oem marui shells. The more modern shells are thicker where it cracks. I have a g&g combat machine gearbox here that's starting to crack unknown to the owner. I advised him to replace it since failure would just be a matter of time, it's already cracked through on the sides but not the bottom.

I'm tempted to put it back together to see how many more cycles it will do before giving up.

[Cliffradical]

That's demonstration of my point: It's a matter of time.
Shells are much improved, but the life span one gets out of that shell will vary based on how well the internals are working together.
Many of these shells will perform into the failure (crack)+ 10 000rds, but it's always interesting to try to track and estimate/ compare catastrophic failure rates.

Part of the long goal which I carried forward was to determine the best possible combination of parts and shells vs cost. The ultimate determination was that the setting of parts weighed most heavily on the end longevity of a system, and the parts involved in that equation served to add longevity on percentage, rather than the inverse.

Edit: G&G shells were fun to track, because their 'reliability' varied widely between generations. Some wanted to remain stock, whereas some wanted to have aftermarket injections.
The longest lived G&Gs were ones who had older CA internals (the classic brass cylinder/ 'condom' piston head combo) dropped in. They still died hard though, G&G shells are nice to work in, seem to be solid, but fracture the fuck out. Must be a materials composition thing.
The near opposite is CYMAs. Goddamn crap to work in. They seem to take a lot of punishment though, possibly due to higher lead content making them more flexible?

[lurkingknight]

dunno, I've seen some of the newer styled stock v2s last well beyond what you think is the life expectancy.

add proper use of sorbo and I've yet to see a vfc, lonex, KA or g&p shell crack