JG H&K 416

[eV.Viper]

lipo nunchuck?

lipo are small type battery for what I remember. But they are like 10x small battery in power lol.

[Crunchmeister]

Originally Posted by Dao

Hey Crunchmeister which metal bushings brand did you use for your JG HK416?
I've had a hell of a hard time trying to install some G&P and Guarder bushings on mine, and I know TokyoSeven also had some fitting issues with systema bushings.

I can't remember the brand I used. All I know is that I ordered them from airsoftparts.ca. They installed fine without any issue.

Originally Posted by ShelledPants

I haven't played with the internals of the 416, but would a 7.4v lipo nunchuck fit in the handguard?

Probably would fit, but the RIS is apparently a bitch to remove, and it would have to be removed every time you wanted to recharge the battery.

[Qlong]

Get the 20C version of the Lipo 3 piece.

[ShelledPants]

Originally Posted by eV.Viper

lipo nunchuck?

lipo are small type battery for what I remember. But they are like 10x small battery in power lol.

Nope, a tiny 20c 7.4v lipo has similar discharge rates as a 9.6v large battery.

[TokyoSeven]

Originally Posted by ShelledPants

Nope, a tiny 20c 7.4v lipo has similar discharge rates as a 9.6v large battery.

It may, however it would be quite the pain in the arse to pluck off the front sight and RAS everytime you wanted to charge the battery. Its pretty tight in that RAS, I had considered the thought but decided not to recommend it as I personally do not believe there is clearance for it.

[dpvu]

I'd say base your decision on how much you like the look of the HK416. If you want one, JG is the way to go because the VFCs are just way too expensive and hard to find now that they've gone out of production. If you want an armalite in general, you can find better quality M4s for just a little bit more.

That being said I've heard JG HK416s perform well once tuned and shimmed properly. I've actually got one that was worked on by Tyson (m102404) and the thing fires beautifully. I have no idea how many rounds the previous owners put through it (both said it was very few and that it wasn't gamed) but it's holding up well for me. It sucks that you do have to open it up, replace a few things and reshim/regrease from day 1 but you can easily find one that has all that done for you.

My RAS was loose and the barrel was misaligned when I got mine but both were easy fixes. If the RAS is too loose, you can shim it with tape and it'll be snug and secure and you can't even notice. It's a bit sharp, nothing I'd get cut with but sharper than the rails on my old ICS M4A1 for sure.

[Dusti69]

just got one for my b-day today. the ris front end is a little loose feeling, hop up is tight and hard to adjust but the gun shoots pretty nice, and the ris rails are pretty hard to fit accessories on. i had a bitch of a time putting my rail covers on, i had to tap them into place with a rubber mallet.
of course i havent had it apart yet but looking into the magwell i can see that the gearbox is a black one.
i dunno if that comes with the metal bushings or not. the gearbox is very high pitched and obnoxiously loud when fired. the entire gun itself is just slightly creaky. i plan on maybe getting a metal reciver for it but im not sure about the d-boys ones sold on ebaybanned as my 416's reciever appears to be the type that splits into an upper and a lower and the d-boys metal recievers seem to be one piece

[Skladfin]

its good that the hop up is tight and hard to adjust, that way the hop up is always consistent and makes the shots more accurate.

and also the 7.4v lipo probably would fit. Its not that hard to take off the rails neither, just one allen wrench haha.

[Dusti69]

anybody know if this metal body is compatible with the jg 416? any problems fitting things together?
http://ebaybanned.com/product_info.p...oducts_id=1546

[Bissa]

Originally Posted by Dusti69

anybody know if this metal body is compatible with the jg 416? any problems fitting things together?
http://ebaybanned.com/product_info.p...oducts_id=1546

im pretty sure it will fit, however you will have a gap in hight between the RIS and the rails on the body.

[808]

Use an AN/PEQ or wire the battery to the stock, and put it in the buffer tube.

You won't be able to completely retract the stock forward, but most people keep it slightly extended outward anyways - all you need is maybe 1-1.5 inches.

[Crunchmeister]

I should probably add the "issues" I had with this gun in more detail.

As I mentioned in my earlier post, I had to replace the antireversal latch. When I installed the metal bushings, no matter what I did, I couldn't get the stock arl to stay in place to get the mechbox closed. It would literally jump out of its hole as soon as I released it. Installing a Modify arl worked like a charm. Since then, I've had no internal problems with the gun.

The rest of the internals looked good to me, although this info should be taken with the knowledge that I'm a relative newcomer to airsoft and to mechbox work. I compared the piston & head to a TM, and to me, they seemed to be made of very comparable materials. The airseal on the 416 is exceptional. I also compared the gears to some spare TM gears. I put the sector and bevel gears on a digital scale, and the JG gears were heavier than TM (caveat - the JG bevel gear is a bit different and has a bearing). They seem to be cast of a harder metal than TM. I didn't really do any inspection of the wiring or electical system, as everything seemed to be working properly. I've easily put thousands of rounds through it now and it fires as well as when it was new. Time will tell how durable the internals are, but so far so good.

For externals, I've found that loose parts are almost a given on JG guns. Ditto for many Chinese clones in general (my A&K M249 needed a lot of tightening as well). Both my JG guns needed some screw tightening out of the box (both bought new). My MP5 needed several screw tightened. On my 416, the stock tube was pretty loose. Also, the motor height adjustment screw tolerance is pretty bad. The screw is loose in its hole and loosens. I had to tighten it occasionally and reset the motor heigth to prevent my motor and bevel gears from getting stripped. A touch of blue locktite fixed that up in a hurry.

And as someone else mentioned, the edge of the rails can be quite sharp. I actually cut myself on my rail. It was just a surface cut and didn't even draw blood, but a cut nonetheless. I've had no tolerance issues with the rails. All my optics attach as well on my 416 rails as they do on my CA M15's upper receiver rail. I've had no problems installing either a King Arms verticle foregrip or the modular rail covers. And I highly recommend rail covers to keep your hands protected.

So all in all, the problems are minor, and someone with a screwdriver and a bit of knowledge should be able to fix them up without any issue. At least that was the case with mine. The only other 416 I've had personal experience with is Sepulcrum's. Other than his front sight having been off-centre when he got his gun, he hasn't had any problems at all except for with the battery wiring.

[dpvu]

Be careful when tightening the screws. If you over-tighten or misalign one you can strip the threads. I did that to the one holding the RIS in place. Luckily all I had to do was run to Home Depot and buy a longer screw.

[Dusti69]

yea i put my rail covers on as soon as i took it out of the box. they were so hard to get on. the paint on the metal doesnt seem to be very good. it rubs right off when its touched by anything hard. ive had it only over night and from handling it so far its already beginning a worn look in the metal areas. the large type battery compartment in the fixed stock should have been made a little more roomier. it fits the large battery in just fine but there should be more room for all the wiring and fusebox and the large tamiyas so that theyre not all bunched up and crammed into there