WE 1911 is broken ( need help )

[safx]

Originally Posted by The Saint

That's interesting, makes one wonder if WE calipers touched a TM1911 at any point at all, or if it's a kitbash of WA1911 dimension and TM2011 gas system.

Makes me wonder why people keep buying them

On a side note, the TM 1911 design internally is quite
different than the WA 1911. The most noticeable
thing is the rails that the slides moves on— the TM
uses a removable chasis, while the WA has the
wings cast into the frame ala HiCap

[The Saint]

Originally Posted by safx

Makes me wonder why people keep buying them

We can't all be made of money, and some of us are good enough shots to hit you without using a TM.

[safx]

Originally Posted by The Saint

We can't all be made of money, and some of us are good enough shots to hit you without using a TM.

Hahaha, maybe

But broken guns are wasted time and money.
I like things that last as well as looking nice,
and TM's are quite good in ABS form.

[The Saint]

I kept telling myself that I could live with an ABS gun, but I kept finding out that that's a lie. I'm guessing I'm not the only one like that.

[safx]

True sais. I'm only telling others that plastic
guns are good enough I can't live with them
personally, for no other reason than I love
the look and feel of full CNC'd metal.

But truthfully the stock TM Glock 17 3rd Gen
and the stock TM 1911, are excellent shooters
that are also built to handle propane.

[szetor]

Maybe buy a new WE 1911 Slide.. ive seen them on redwolf, uncompany for $60 and it includes all the internals!

[Drake]

I like my WE, actually.

I have others (WA, MGC, etc). While the WE isn't the best out of the box, I find it great for the price if you're willing to spend a bit to replace some key parts.

I'm generally not a fan of low end guns (like the JunkGong stuff), but some guns -- the CYMA AKS-74U comes to mind -- offer great bang for the buck if you're willing to invest a bit more to make it a sturdy gun.

[Roughneck]

Drake, what parts have you replaced on the WE? And have you ever run into the issue of the slide not locking back?

I think I've narrowed the locking back problem down to mag cooldown. Seems like it doesnt work when I empty a mag quickly. I really like my WE as well, the finish is weak but I don't carry showpieces.. I expect my guns to wear

[tsuru]

I feel your pain. I did the exact same thing to the bushing on my TM Hi-Capa. It's pretty amusing to watch the recoil spring go across the room instead of the BB when you pull the trigger. But then the amusement ends when you try to find a replacement part.

[KND]

Hi ! Everyone Im looking to get this steel bushing from redwolf, but what I don't understand is what is the different between type 1, type 2 type 3 ?

Nova Barrel Bushing for Marui 1911A1 - Type 1 - Steel Black
Nova Barrel Bushing for Marui 1911A1 - Type 2 - Steel Black
Nova Barrel Bushing for Marui 1911A1 - Type 3 - Steel Black

Thanks in advance

KND

[Drake]

Originally Posted by Spencer

Drake, what parts have you replaced on the WE? And have you ever run into the issue of the slide not locking back?

I think I've narrowed the locking back problem down to mag cooldown. Seems like it doesnt work when I empty a mag quickly. I really like my WE as well, the finish is weak but I don't carry showpieces.. I expect my guns to wear

I'm waiting for anyone to get silver/stainless 3 hole triggers back in stock, I'll be getting the Nineball Dyna piston head at the same time, along with the TK Twist inner barrel. Saint also suggested a replacement loading nozzle, so I might pick up a reinforced one.

In the meantime, after examining the stock piston head, I wrapped several layers of teflon tape around it as a temporary measure to improve sealing; it went from being able to move back and forth without resistance to having a bit of resistance, similar to what you'd feel when manually moving a an AEG piston through the cylinder.

I also applied white lithium grease on all contact surfaces (first thing I did when I got the gun).

I've never encountered a problem with the slide not locking on an empty mag except once when the last BB coincided with the mag running out of gas and produced a noticeably weak shot and the slide didn't fully cycle (which would have happened on any GBB).

I've been experimenting with stock TM valves as well, but I'm waiting to get some extra mags before I attempt anything further (I want to try and modify a stock WE valve). As reported on another website, the TM valves do produce more power, possibly because of slightly larger ports, or other design factors (I'll find out when I mod a WE valve). But regardless, I still get positive slide locks on empty mags using the stock WE valve, so that has nothing to do with it.

I would suggest lubing the contact points on the frame and slide with a light coat of white lithium. In my experience, white lithium has always provided me with the most noticeable friction reduction compared to other lubes, including silicone grease, Teflon grease and graphite grease.

If you feel like opening up your blowback chamber, you can take a ~20cm strip of PTFE thread seal tape, fold it in half length-wise (so it isn't as wide; folded in half makes it more or less the same width as the piston head) and wrap that around the piston head. Trim a bit off if it's too snug. Use silicone oil to lube.

[Roughneck]

hmm thanks, I think I'll do that with the PTFE tape tonight, I've never opened the blowback unit as this is my first and only GBB.. my gundoc skills are quite limited. Anything special I should be aware of?

[Drake]

Originally Posted by Spencer

hmm thanks, I think I'll do that with the PTFE tape tonight, I've never opened the blowback unit as this is my first and only GBB.. my gundoc skills are quite limited. Anything special I should be aware of?

Not really. Just pay attention how everything comes apart.

There's one spring in there which isn't attached. It'll most likely fall out when you're disassembling it. Don't panic. The slot where it lives is obvious.

[Ginoo]

I have the same problem. Does anyone know if a Guarder P-Process Steel Spring Guide & Cap would work??

http://cgi.ebay.com/Guarder-Steel-SP...QQcmdZViewItem

[Drake]

Originally Posted by Gino

I have the same problem. Does anyone know if a Guarder P-Process Steel Spring Guide & Cap would work??

http://cgi.ebay.com/Guarder-Steel-SP...QQcmdZViewItem

Based on what I've read the Marui cap does NOT work, and judging from the pic on eBay... there seems to be a sort of rail or something (WTF?) under the cap. Dunno what's up with that. But definitely won't fit in the WE. Find a WA cap.