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January 4th, 2008, 08:26 | #16 |
Tys
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I posted a pic of my CQB version...I'm not much of a photographer compared to others...
Eel One: Where did you put the battery in your build? |
January 4th, 2008, 09:04 | #17 |
The reciever is slated to be released this year.
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January 4th, 2008, 19:38 | #18 |
I have a 9.6v battery based on ELITE1500 2/3A cells in the stock. I can even fit another cell in there but I think it would be overkill. Fitting a fuse in there would be a PITA, but I usually run all my guns hot wired any way. If one can settle for "only" 8.4v there is plenty of space for a fuse box. Alternatively use a car type blade fuse that takes up a lot less space.
In the current setup I have a beta test unit of Gandolfs (from airsoftmechanics.com) Computerrized AEG Controllers (SW-computer) in there as well that also acts as a fuse and will cut of the power in 4 or 5 different ways if things starts to get hot. Some might say that only 1500mAh is insufficient. I rarely have to change battery and if I have to make single change on a day of skirmish, it is OK with me. Here you can see the stock and battery: Here is a few pics showing some details of the kit: |
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January 5th, 2008, 09:58 | #19 |
Tys
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Thanks Eel One,
I'm going to forward off the links to your battery pics to Jugglez (runs airsoftparts.ca). We were chatting the other day and he was stuck on how to run power for his rig. Using the same stock as you. I'm running Gandalf's SW-AB-LONG in my KA MOD stock on my CQB...works well. I've been catching up on and off on his PC based MOSFET...sounds neat. Tys |
January 5th, 2008, 11:47 | #20 |
Guest
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Im #3 on the list for the sw-computer cant wait! yay burst!
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January 5th, 2008, 21:58 | #21 |
As far as my test unit is representative, the SW-computer works very well. I'll field test it on the 13th of January, but it seems promising.
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January 15th, 2008, 19:39 | #22 |
m102404-
I've gotten my 12" kit and am having some issues attaching it to the G&P upper receiver that I have. It seems like the threading on the receiver and barrel nut differ slightly, but just enough to prevent it from screwing on any more than 1/2 a turn. ANybody have any suggestions? Vic. |
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January 15th, 2008, 19:45 | #23 |
Tys
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I didn't have any problems with mine...just be careful not to cross thread it. Last night I swapped the 12" kit onto a different body (I was bored) and it went on really nice and snug.
Best of luck...hope you get it going! |
January 15th, 2008, 19:46 | #24 |
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Swimming in a pool of Xpresspost receipts.... Toronto - 400/401
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You shouldn't be having problems using a G&P body. It must've been threaded incorrectly from the factory.
Mad Bull has a threading tool. http://www.madbullairsoft.com/Englis...roducts_id=103 |
January 16th, 2008, 00:53 | #25 |
Thanks for the feedback, I have a set of thread feelers that I'm going to use to see if I can determine the TPI of either part to figure out which isn't correct. G&P is normally very good about quality control along with Madbull so I am at a loss why they did not thread properly. The the barrel nut and the delta ring mesh perfectly so I believe that it probably the upper receiver.
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January 16th, 2008, 01:15 | #26 |
now, the JP kit comes with 4 barrel lengths, does this mean each barrel must be used with the correct cylinder (as in correct barrel length to cylinder port)?
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January 16th, 2008, 02:28 | #27 | |
Quote:
Vic. PS I'm looking at a DYTAC VLTOR MUR to replace my upper receiver as it is designed for the G&P lower receiver and has the same tpi as a TM, as the JP rifles kit should work as it seems the upper was off, TPI-wise. *edit* I took my thread gauge to both the JP Rifles' kit and the G&P Upper receiver and they both have the same TPI. I think that the receiver was cut before finished and the finishing process altered the threads just enough. I did managed to get the two pieces to screw properly, but I was working it 1/4 of a revolution at a time and backing out. Last edited by Taito; January 16th, 2008 at 11:31.. |
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January 16th, 2008, 02:34 | #28 |
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Swimming in a pool of Xpresspost receipts.... Toronto - 400/401
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Do you plan on switching the outer barrel lengths often?
If you are I suggest getting separate hop-up units/rubbers/inner barrels for each length you want to run. would save you a lot of time on each changeover. The 12" JP handguard kit comes with 24", 20", 18" and 16" outer barrel lengths. 24" Barrel takes 650mm inner barrel. You will need an M16 bore-up cylinder kit. 20" Barrel takes 550mm inner barrel. Needs non-ported Type-0 cylinder 18" Barrel takes 509mm inner barrel. Needs non-ported Type-0 cylinder. 16" Barrel takes 455mm inner barrel. Needs non-ported Type-0 cylinder. So if you're not going to utilize the 24" barrel you don't need to worry about the cylinder porting. If you need a breakdown on the 7" JP handguard kit let me know. |
January 16th, 2008, 05:01 | #29 |
If my memory serve me correct, I have heard that G&P have changed the threads on their receiver so that they are only compatible with their own delta rings. However it is unconfirmed.
I did also experience some issues with the threading on the kit and my new HurricanE receiver. The kit did go straight on an old guarder receiver, so I used the delta ring from the guarder receiver and forced it on the new HurricanE receiver. It did the trick, but had the madbull thread tool been released at the time it would have done the job so much easier. So I'll say go get the correct tool for the job. It will be the easiest solution and properly also the solution that will give the best result. |
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January 16th, 2008, 05:41 | #30 | |
Quote:
Vic. |
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