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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:16   #16
Trivium01
 
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They offer much lower resistance than your standard mini connectors (i've heard up to 15%).

The drawbacks are that you have to:
1) Convert your batteries to dean connectors (make sure the female ends are on the battery *cough Spa*)
2) Make a dean connector charger wire
3) Convert the rest of the wiring harness to dean connectors (on a g36 I think this comes out too needing 3 male+female connectors; 1 at the gearbox, and 2 at both ends of the fuse-wire piece)

For all of this you're looking at 4 male/female dean connectors. I'd definately say its worth the soldering

The biggest thing of all to keep in mind is that you MUST have your batteries charged at ops, or you'll have a real hard time finding someone to borrow a battery off of
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:21   #17
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wow I'm so lost with the dean connector but really all i have to say is thank god my pa's an electrician.
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:23   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trivium01 View Post

The biggest thing of all to keep in mind is that you MUST have your batteries charged at ops, or you'll have a real hard time finding someone to borrow a battery off of
I made a deans on one end and the regular mini connector on the other on a lenth of dual wire to solve that problem. Small and portable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OneTimePoster View Post
wow I'm so lost with the dean connector but really all i have to say is thank god my pa's an electrician.
very easy , try it. All guys should have fundamental soldering skills.
YouTube - How to solder a Deans Connector
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:31   #19
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oh cool i've done that before my dad showed me like last year(on a personal note my cat thrasher my leg and i got that solder on my finger. first time i cried from pain in almost a year!).
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:32   #20
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Ya, that would work well for ops if you think your battery won't make it.

What you want is a non-ported cylinder (Also known as a type 0), with this one being the one you want (from the cheapest place too); it fits in the gearbox

http://cgi.ebay.com/Systema-Airsoft-...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:36   #21
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wow like you guys probably can tell I've only been keeping up with this stuff for about 2 weeks but aren't cylinders suppose to have teeth on them how does it work? and what would you say is the top piston head or at least the best one for my gun.
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:39   #22
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:P Pistons are what have teeth on them, piston heads (are attached to the piston) make a seal with the cylinder, pushing the air out the cylinder head.

As for the top piston head, I believe I have a guarder in mine, but you'd have to look around to see what the overall census is. I'm also pretty sure there's a post on the better ones somewhere..

http://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=6677

This is the bible of upgrading airsoft parts IMO

And I just realized that you want a type 0 for a longer barrel length. You want a type II for your particular barrel length, though I haven't had any experience with using a type 0 with a shorter barrel
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:46   #23
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totally miss-read the name it said non ported cylinder not piston wow i feel dumb so what the heck is a cylinder suppose to do i'm in grade 11 mechanics but this is just over my head lol! piston is suppose to go into the cylinder and push the pelt into the hopup witch then does out the barrel and hit's your target. so now I'm wondering what possibly could be wrong with a cylinder that would require you to even think of upgrading it?

answered my question took 2 minutes just looking it up srry for that!

Last edited by OneTimePoster; October 2nd, 2007 at 23:49..
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:55   #24
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Deans connector :
https://www.rctoys.com/rc-toys-and-p...RS-WIRING.html
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Old October 2nd, 2007, 23:58   #25
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Wow a lot has changed with this gun. lets keep this going.
do you like my piston selection? the Deep Fire Full titanium coated teeth standard piston?
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Old October 3rd, 2007, 00:00   #26
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I've never heard of a cylinder itself breaking. Most people change cylinder's because:

a) they've changed the barrel length of their gun,

b) get a bore-up kit rather than a tighter spring, as they reduce wear on the gears (which IMO are overpriced - $90 more for a kit than a spring - and aren't worth it)

c) want to get greater FPS without using a tighter spring, though I would recommend looking at http://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=18038 before doing that

I would stay with the stock CA polycarbonate piston (cheap if they break), as those deepfire ones are shite (had one for less than 2000 rounds before it cracked). Another option is a systema piston, but for the price you could probably replace with a CA one twice over
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Old October 3rd, 2007, 00:06   #27
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I'd stay away from Full titanium Teeth piston Go with Systema PolyCarb (black piston) or if u have the money get a Promethus Hard piston <- Work amazing

Unless u go with Helical gearset then U need the matching 1/2 teeth pistons.. I still recommend Polycarbonate over Full steel teeth.. Much cheaper to replace the entire piston then it is to replace an entire set of gears
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Old October 3rd, 2007, 00:07   #28
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ok i'll keep with the CA any ways look at this little timbit. yea this whole piston category has been giving me trouble still don't know how good my piston head is i think i might change to the Systema Duracon piston head with bearings.
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Old October 3rd, 2007, 00:11   #29
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guys not to be an ass buts hes 15.
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Old October 3rd, 2007, 00:12   #30
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I'm 22 this is my brothers account.
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