issues with my high speed build.

[Hectic]

Yup i tested with 4 screws (the back the bottom the one in front of the trigger below the cylender and one up top.)
I will try moving bushings around if that dont help with the spur height i will shave a bit off of the high one. Reshim and go from there. Im sure reshimming and moving the bushings should fix my issue.

[Stealth]

I've resorted to a quantitative method for shimming through the use of a Watt Meter.

http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...m1r9gkmjhockg4

This meter will tell you exactly how many amps your motor pulls during continuous fire.

Knowing the current draw will tell you if there's something binding inside and whether you're just overpowering it and masking the problem. With Neo motors and 11.1v batteries its a very common occurance. Stripped gears or blown bearings are the result.

Shimming bearings requires a bit more play than shimming bushings. You don't really want to use the bearings as a guide because the inner race would move a bit. Use the mechbox shell as a reference to see how much of a gap you have. Also don't use the big diameter shims as they exert pressure on the outer race.

With your setup of 13.1 gears, m90 spring, and 9.6v battery, you should easily push 23-26 RPS on a ferrite motor. With a Neo motor, you should push around 30rps. If I were you I would lighten that Lonex red. After one game you'll chew through it.

Current draw is dependent on your motor, but if you break 20A you've got something wrong inside the mechbox.

[Hectic]

I dont have a dremel so im gonna have to use a drill to lighten it.
You think 4 or 5 3/8th holes along the top is enough reduction? Less,more, smaller holes?

[lurkingknight]

you'd be surprised how much material you can remove from a good piston.


From this one, you can even take a smaller bit and go at the spots between those big holes on the top. The vital areas to leave material are at the front near the piston head and at the back of the body for strength at the pickup tooth and closer to the rack. All other areas are pretty fair game from what I've seen of piston swiss cheesing.

There seems to be an unspoken challenge on asm about how much material can be removed from a piston before it blows up.



this one is from an 80rps dsg gun. That's some pretty gnarly swiss cheese. He even ground the teeth off for short stroking AND he cut right trough the rack base after epoxying in the rack.

btw, if you want to drop even more weight, just lose the bearing plates and bearing out for the piston head, put the end right on it and screw it in, you only need the bearing on the spring guide anyways to prevent binding. Taking the bearing and plates out drops a shit ton of weight, you also can adjust FPS lower by removing them. I had to go up 1 spring step to get back to 390ish fps on my p90 when I did that. (guarder sp110 to shs 120) So you can lose about 20-30fps.

[Hectic]

I dont think ill go all that crazy ill try 3/8th front and rear and 1/2 in the center.
Im a lil iffy bout takin anything from the sides doing it with a drill as i dont wanna fuzz up the racks.
Also gonna grind down the stupid big block of metal they used to hold on the cylender head as i cant dig up a suitable nut and screw for it.

[Hectic]

Something like this

[lurkingknight]

that will work... you can probably get more out of it than that.. once you start swissing... it's like a drug when you pull the trigger.. :P I didn't do it until this year and once I did that first shot with 13:1s is absolutely breathtaking. The gun fires almost before you can even think about taking your finger off the trigger.

Though I think a side effect of having an extremely light piston assembly is that any overspin will be magnified quite a bit. My g36 likes to double shoot sometimes.. which means I may have to look at putting a 130 spring in and short stroking 1-2 teeth.

[Hectic]

Im not all that into crazy ROF builds im really just building this gun as a lowish (sub 350) fps fast trigger response setup for indoors
But yeah i can see how building bb laser beams can become crack lol

[Stealth]

Trigger response and ROF go hand in hand. You can't really have one without another.

That said how much work do you want to put into this?

Here's a 7.4v setup with the following parts:
370fps
ZCI 13:1 gears
VFC aluminum PH
Lonex A2 motor
NanoAB
http://youtu.be/elvxUnPLzis


I dare not plug in a 11.1v cause the piston will destroy itself but its even more snappy.... The piston was lightened but it was a half assed job of three holes along the back.

[Hectic]

Yeah i know the two are linked. I think with what i have.
13:1
M90
9.6v
Three holes in the lonex back the center one a lil bigger. And two small holes in each side.
Weight reduction in the stupid block they used to secure the piston head.
Should be more then enough to suit my needs. I just want the bb to fire fast enough after i pull the trigger that folks wont hear an aeg wind up and move out the way befor the shot is even fired lol.
If your thinking near 30rps that is near double what it would have fired stockwth the included 8.4v so logically it should do shots in semi nearly twice as fast.
I dont thini the brain can register and react to the sound of an aeg in 1/30th of a seccond so i think i will be happy with it. Worse case if i still need it faster i spose i could short stroke it a 2 teeth maybe even 3 but i think where it stands now will be good enough for my needs.

[Stealth]

Did you end up clocking your gun and how fast it fires?

I didn't read all your posts but if its firing barely above a stock AEG you may want to revisit your shimming.

Grab a computer mic and hit record. Download audacity then analyze the peaks of your recording. It's the most accurate way. Compare it with your chrony readout. If they're different you may have feeding issues.

[Hectic]

Well considering my power went out so i did it with a flashlight and the light from my drill i think i did a half decent job (or half assed if you preffer)
This is what i came up with.

The smaller holes on top wer a lil out of whack so i evened em out with my knife a lil.

[Hectic]

Havent got that far yet stealth doing final assembly now. Think i got the shimming all worked out now tho. We shall see how it all works once together.

[K3vX]

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

you'd be surprised how much material you can remove from a good piston.

That's one good, clean job.
I might try the same if I do this one day.

[wind_comm]

Originally Posted by K3vX

That's one good, clean job.
I might try the same if I do this one day.

NOT LIGHT ENUF. REMOVE MOAR!

that picture is from a store that offers lonex reds pre-lightened.