Umarex M416 pesky problems.

oniwagamaru · May 26th, 2011, 16:38

if that doesnt work, use tape to push your mags forward!works for me!

Danke · May 26th, 2011, 16:53

Just trim the nose of the BB retention catch in each mag. They'll feed reliably then without having to tap.

EscapisT · May 26th, 2011, 20:17

Thanks for the massive to-do list once i get home! I love working on my guns. Ill keep you guys posted and maybe show you guys some hk416 porn if i can find my camera.

Any thoughts on inner arrel length? To suppress or not to suppress? And do you think itll handle an m120?

http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ER-GG-HK416.htm - I can barely find any specs on the insternals for this thing.

EscapisT · May 26th, 2011, 20:37

double post, sorry

THe_Silencer · May 26th, 2011, 20:50

Just because it is shooting 335 FPS doesn't mean it can't handle and m120 spring. Your 416 can handle 400+ FPS easy.

EscapisT · May 26th, 2011, 22:13

alright, I guess ive got enough information to tackle this thing. As for the barrel extension, i guess its personal preference unless someone can provide some concrete bullet-"proof".... ...proof! :P

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danke

Just trim the nose of the BB retention catch in each mag. They'll feed reliably then without having to tap.

So i shave off a little at a time on the very tip of the nose correct?

Stay tuned for some 416 porn!

sushicake · May 26th, 2011, 22:38

Dont start swapping parts around when you dont need too. The stock VFC parts can handle 400+ fps with no modification, just stick with the spring swap.

No need to be screwing around with other parts.

Remember the general rule "if it aint broke dont fix it"

Cause with AEG's you're bound to run into some problems later if you screw up something when swapping parts around.

EscapisT · May 27th, 2011, 00:28

Ok, i was thinking putting in a polycarb piston, because i read everywhere that a metal pistonhead is more durable but puts more stress on the gearbox... I ordered a polycarb pistonhead from g&g.

So far, I have a metal kingarms hopchamber and 6.01mm Madbull TBB
I plan on putting an m120 and top it off with a polycarb piston head and shes done for me. Would you honestly stick with the metal one?

Danke · May 27th, 2011, 00:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by EscapisT

So i shave off a little at a time on the very tip of the nose correct?

Yep, picture the mag in the well, the feed tube will bump that to release BBs. If it hands down a bit you need to take some of the tip off so the BBs release sooner.

THe_Silencer · May 27th, 2011, 00:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by EscapisT

So far, I have a metal kingarms hopchamber and 6.01mm Madbull TBB
I plan on putting an m120 and top it off with a polycarb piston head and shes done for me. Would you honestly stick with the metal one?

The screw on the pistonhead is threadlocked so whether or not you can unscrew it will be a big factor in whether you'll be keeping the metal one.

Replacing the hopup chamber is a waste of money IMO since the material has no bearing on the performance, constancy, seal, etc. Metal is generally more durable but that's why you wait for your current one to break. Also, you should have done some research on inner barrel lengths, would have saved you the trouble of having too long of a barrel.

EscapisT · May 27th, 2011, 01:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danke

Yep, picture the mag in the well, the feed tube will bump that to release BBs. If it hands down a bit you need to take some of the tip off so the BBs release sooner.

WORKED LIKE A CHARM. thanks alot man, rep+++

Quote:

Originally Posted by THe_Silencer

The screw on the pistonhead is threadlocked so whether or not you can unscrew it will be a big factor in whether you'll be keeping the metal one.

Replacing the hopup chamber is a waste of money IMO since the material has no bearing on the performance, constancy, seal, etc. Metal is generally more durable but that's why you wait for your current one to break. Also, you should have done some research on inner barrel lengths, would have saved you the trouble of having too long of a barrel.

Well then i guess I have no choice but to keep the metal one on.

As for the hopup chamber, it's alot better than the stock one. The c-clip is alot harder to clamp on but completely eliminates rotational barrel wobble which in turn causes inaccuracy from the vibration of the gun, regardless if it was properly adjusted before the final assembly. The stock one wobbled like a bobblehead. Also, it is made of METAL

And finally, the barrel... Yes it was too long, but nothing that can't be fixed. I cut it clean, no problems. It's a nice straight cut that i did extremely slowly with a thin mini multitool saw, which took a damn long time, but I took care not to stress or bend the barrel... The cut is as clean as it would be from the factory.

It awaits a new spring.....

Gunny_McSmith · May 27th, 2011, 10:55

You could also use a Pipe cutter to cut the barrel..... much easier and faster :P

EscapisT · May 28th, 2011, 02:14

Hey guys, out of the box, this thing's gearbox jams alot... that's why i wanted to take it apart in the first place. The jamming is almost similar to that common Gearbox cease in semi from a half trigger pull, but different. It ceases even with full trigger pulls. I didn't mention this because it's kind of embarrassing, seeing as this is a 400 dollar gun....

The gearbox ceases in semi and firing in full auto does not unjam it... Pulling the trigger actuates something in the gearbox, I can hear it... but it's jammed and something stops it from cycling... I havent figured out how to unjam it but i played with the charging handle once and that unjammed it but its not doing anything now...

I'm trying to get to the gearbox, but I'm having trouble taking out the bolt catch and mag release. Hopefully we can figure out what's wrong with the gearbox. For the bolt catch, i removed the little pin securing the actual bolt catch button, but dont know how it comes out...

YouTube - ‪Echo1USA Tech Support Videos - M4 Magazine Release Removal and Adjustment‬&rlm;

The mag release in that video has a screw, mine looks like it does, but with no screw-able head... It doesn't look like a pin either.

Edit: okay, got the bolt catch out.
Edit2: When it's jammed, the piston is in the COCKED position if that helps.
Edit3: Found something. One of the contacts on the motor is loose... Can the be an issue? The motor does not cycle with just one contact does it?
Edit4: figured out the magrelease.. it's real steel style

Edit5: wow this is a real pain in the ass.... the large pin at the back is not coming all the way out of the gearbox, and its holding it in... It doesnt come out of the receiver with that C-clip on it. It's still a good 1.5-2mm in the gearbox. It's like the pin is too long.

Danke · May 28th, 2011, 04:27

How big a battery are you running? I find I need a pretty big one to crank mine over. Sanyo crane stock battery 9.6V 3600 mAh.

For the rear pin do you mean the one that you knock out with a bullet? It's captured so it won't come out all the way. You can also try putting the other pins back in and knocking that one out first.

For the bolt catch push the retaining pint out, lift the nose of the mechbox and you can pull it out. to the side.

EscapisT · May 28th, 2011, 08:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danke

How big a battery are you running? I find I need a pretty big one to crank mine over. Sanyo crane stock battery 9.6V 3600 mAh.

For the rear pin do you mean the one that you knock out with a bullet? It's captured so it won't come out all the way. You can also try putting the other pins back in and knocking that one out first.

For the bolt catch push the retaining pint out, lift the nose of the mechbox and you can pull it out. to the side.

Hey, I figured out how to get to the gearbox... the large bottom receiver pin wouldnt come out enough to get the gear box out, so i took off the clip with needlenose pliers and took the pin out completely and voila....

So I got the gearbox out, opened it up, looks fine.. everything seems to be in working order... Yet my gun struggles and can barely fire... I am using a 9.6v 1600mAh nimh and yes, it's fully charged

. It powers my javelin m4 with no issues. Even after putting it back together piece by piece, as nicely as possible, i am still having the same problem.. Furthermore, There is something wrong with the trigger assembly/fire selector. When I switch from safe to semi, the first trigger pull pull afterwards feels tough,as if it's still sort of in safe.

I don't understand why this gun, almost identical to the javelin m4, would require a larger battery to operate.

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May 26th, 2011, 16:38	#16
oniwagamaru Occifer Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Some hole in the middleo' nowhere	if that doesnt work, use tape to push your mags forward!works for me! __________________ Is you Morgan Freeman? Lord_SEX is my Lord... Sex Beef Jerky Dealer? REGULAR GUY Certified Level 34 Autosniper *μολών λαβε*

May 26th, 2011, 16:53	#17
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	Just trim the nose of the BB retention catch in each mag. They'll feed reliably then without having to tap. __________________ Airsoft, where nothing is hurt but feelings.

May 26th, 2011, 20:17	#18
EscapisT Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Montreal, QC	Thanks for the massive to-do list once i get home! I love working on my guns. Ill keep you guys posted and maybe show you guys some hk416 porn if i can find my camera. Any thoughts on inner arrel length? To suppress or not to suppress? And do you think itll handle an m120? http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ER-GG-HK416.htm - I can barely find any specs on the insternals for this thing. Last edited by EscapisT; May 26th, 2011 at 20:37..

May 26th, 2011, 20:37	#19
EscapisT Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Montreal, QC	double post, sorry

May 26th, 2011, 20:50	#20
THe_Silencer Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hamilton,ON	Just because it is shooting 335 FPS doesn't mean it can't handle and m120 spring. Your 416 can handle 400+ FPS easy. __________________ It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it - Aristotle -Founder of Steel City Hamilton Infantry and Tactics -Certified level 43 Autosniper by Commander Amos

May 26th, 2011, 22:38	#22
sushicake Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Markham, ON	Dont start swapping parts around when you dont need too. The stock VFC parts can handle 400+ fps with no modification, just stick with the spring swap. No need to be screwing around with other parts. Remember the general rule "if it aint broke dont fix it" Cause with AEG's you're bound to run into some problems later if you screw up something when swapping parts around. __________________ "Don't you know the first law of physics? Anything fun costs atleast $8"

May 27th, 2011, 00:28	#23
EscapisT Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Montreal, QC	Ok, i was thinking putting in a polycarb piston, because i read everywhere that a metal pistonhead is more durable but puts more stress on the gearbox... I ordered a polycarb pistonhead from g&g. So far, I have a metal kingarms hopchamber and 6.01mm Madbull TBB I plan on putting an m120 and top it off with a polycarb piston head and shes done for me. Would you honestly stick with the metal one?

May 27th, 2011, 10:55	#27
Gunny_McSmith a.k.a. Palucol Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: MTL	You could also use a Pipe cutter to cut the barrel..... much easier and faster :P __________________

May 28th, 2011, 02:14	#28
EscapisT Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Montreal, QC	Hey guys, out of the box, this thing's gearbox jams alot... that's why i wanted to take it apart in the first place. The jamming is almost similar to that common Gearbox cease in semi from a half trigger pull, but different. It ceases even with full trigger pulls. I didn't mention this because it's kind of embarrassing, seeing as this is a 400 dollar gun.... The gearbox ceases in semi and firing in full auto does not unjam it... Pulling the trigger actuates something in the gearbox, I can hear it... but it's jammed and something stops it from cycling... I havent figured out how to unjam it but i played with the charging handle once and that unjammed it but its not doing anything now... I'm trying to get to the gearbox, but I'm having trouble taking out the bolt catch and mag release. Hopefully we can figure out what's wrong with the gearbox. For the bolt catch, i removed the little pin securing the actual bolt catch button, but dont know how it comes out... YouTube - ‪Echo1USA Tech Support Videos - M4 Magazine Release Removal and Adjustment‬&rlm; The mag release in that video has a screw, mine looks like it does, but with no screw-able head... It doesn't look like a pin either. Edit: okay, got the bolt catch out. Edit2: When it's jammed, the piston is in the COCKED position if that helps. Edit3: Found something. One of the contacts on the motor is loose... Can the be an issue? The motor does not cycle with just one contact does it? Edit4: figured out the magrelease.. it's real steel style Edit5: wow this is a real pain in the ass.... the large pin at the back is not coming all the way out of the gearbox, and its holding it in... It doesnt come out of the receiver with that C-clip on it. It's still a good 1.5-2mm in the gearbox. It's like the pin is too long. Last edited by EscapisT; May 28th, 2011 at 03:09..

May 28th, 2011, 04:27	#29
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	How big a battery are you running? I find I need a pretty big one to crank mine over. Sanyo crane stock battery 9.6V 3600 mAh. For the rear pin do you mean the one that you knock out with a bullet? It's captured so it won't come out all the way. You can also try putting the other pins back in and knocking that one out first. For the bolt catch push the retaining pint out, lift the nose of the mechbox and you can pull it out. to the side. __________________ Airsoft, where nothing is hurt but feelings.

Umarex M416 pesky problems.

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