using duster

bareass · February 23rd, 2011, 15:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by teriases

You... Tried to inhale it...? Your so silly you...

advertised.... bitterant doesn't work on me.. my mommy tried to stop my nail biting with it. it tasted bad at first but i got over it!

anyway, is that an issue? its $4/can in a 24 case on ebay.

m102404 · February 23rd, 2011, 15:33

AI used to sell a WA restrictor...basically a disk with a small hole in it, measured to let the right about of propane through. WA's were (so far as I know/knew) supposed to run on 134a and not propane. Their blowbacks worked somewhat differently though...so I'm not sure that the same thing could be applied to the G18C.

Hopups break because of the pounding they take...basically they take the brunt of the impact when the slide comes forward. It's not going to break the hopup when the slide/nozzle is retracting away from it.

Jams/misfeeds compound the chances that something will break (and you kind of hope it's the nozzle) if things get out of whack.

Regardless...breakage due to jams is very different from the slide/bbu/nozzle basically pounding on the hopup unit until something shears and breaks.

So...if you're worried about the hopup breaking:
1. Have as light a slide as possible
2. Have as slow a slide as possible

When you change over to a metal slide you end up with a heavier "slug" basically slamming back and forth. A stiffer recoil spring will slow the slide rearwards (which helps save the slide and frame) but slings it forward faster/harder...and add the momentum of a metal slide. The slide/bbu/nozzle impacts the outer barrel, the hopup and the lug that the locks the slide to the frame.

So it's a compromise between durability of the slide (metal outlasts plastic) and maintaining a level of durability for other parts.

So...that doesn't help you specifically with what to do...

...but I'd still go with a metal slide and 150% recoil spring for it...the noise/action/etc...with that combo and a bunch of 50rnd mags would be awesome!

.......for as long as it held together

bareass · February 23rd, 2011, 15:49

so basically use 134a, until i get a metal slide and 150% recoil. then, expoy the lug and use propane and hop all goes well!
do the buffers help at all, or not really?
if i use an aluminum slide will it be light enought to not need a 150% recoil spring?

m102404 · February 23rd, 2011, 15:59

Rubber recoil buffers do not reduce slide recoil (rearward) speed at all...and simply blunt the impact when the slide reaches the end of the travel.

Not a bad thing, especially with a plastic slide since the front of the slide takes the hit when the slide slams back.

Buffers won't do anything for the forward impact of the slide. The barrel lockup on the main pin, or in this case the wedge, takes the hit there.

Too many buffers and you end up short stroking your gun...meaning that the slide won't travel far enough back to lock back. Not the end of the world. More buffers and you might get to the point where the slide doesn't actuate all the levers/disconects that it needs to (depends on the pistol setup). Too many buffers and you won't be able to get your pistol back together.

The AS buffers come in sets of washers...some metal and some rubber. The metal ones are used to make sure the spring sits properly (or else they tend to cut into the rubber), and that the rubber washers stay in place/shape.

If you find the right size/material you can just make your own....it's about $0.10 worth of material.

bareass · February 23rd, 2011, 16:11

ok, i get it.
so just like in offroading, you need to pick your weak point. in a jeep, super strong ujoints and axles will cause the breaking point to be moved into the diff, or drive shaft.
so a weaker (by comparison) ujoint is used to keep breakages cheap and easily fixed.

so if i were to run propane with buffers, and perhaps add some epoxy to the front of a plastic slide. the weak point will be the slide. correct. this would let the slide break before say the frame or hop up, while being strong enough to run for a long enough time.

a replacement plastic slide is cheap, and readily available.

... would this work, or am i missing something?

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February 23rd, 2011, 15:49	#18
bareass Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Windsor Ontario	so basically use 134a, until i get a metal slide and 150% recoil. then, expoy the lug and use propane and hop all goes well! do the buffers help at all, or not really? if i use an aluminum slide will it be light enought to not need a 150% recoil spring? Last edited by bareass; February 23rd, 2011 at 15:52..

February 23rd, 2011, 15:33	#17
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	AI used to sell a WA restrictor...basically a disk with a small hole in it, measured to let the right about of propane through. WA's were (so far as I know/knew) supposed to run on 134a and not propane. Their blowbacks worked somewhat differently though...so I'm not sure that the same thing could be applied to the G18C. Hopups break because of the pounding they take...basically they take the brunt of the impact when the slide comes forward. It's not going to break the hopup when the slide/nozzle is retracting away from it. Jams/misfeeds compound the chances that something will break (and you kind of hope it's the nozzle) if things get out of whack. Regardless...breakage due to jams is very different from the slide/bbu/nozzle basically pounding on the hopup unit until something shears and breaks. So...if you're worried about the hopup breaking: 1. Have as light a slide as possible 2. Have as slow a slide as possible When you change over to a metal slide you end up with a heavier "slug" basically slamming back and forth. A stiffer recoil spring will slow the slide rearwards (which helps save the slide and frame) but slings it forward faster/harder...and add the momentum of a metal slide. The slide/bbu/nozzle impacts the outer barrel, the hopup and the lug that the locks the slide to the frame. So it's a compromise between durability of the slide (metal outlasts plastic) and maintaining a level of durability for other parts. So...that doesn't help you specifically with what to do... ...but I'd still go with a metal slide and 150% recoil spring for it...the noise/action/etc...with that combo and a bunch of 50rnd mags would be awesome! .......for as long as it held together

February 23rd, 2011, 15:59	#19
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	Rubber recoil buffers do not reduce slide recoil (rearward) speed at all...and simply blunt the impact when the slide reaches the end of the travel. Not a bad thing, especially with a plastic slide since the front of the slide takes the hit when the slide slams back. Buffers won't do anything for the forward impact of the slide. The barrel lockup on the main pin, or in this case the wedge, takes the hit there. Too many buffers and you end up short stroking your gun...meaning that the slide won't travel far enough back to lock back. Not the end of the world. More buffers and you might get to the point where the slide doesn't actuate all the levers/disconects that it needs to (depends on the pistol setup). Too many buffers and you won't be able to get your pistol back together. The AS buffers come in sets of washers...some metal and some rubber. The metal ones are used to make sure the spring sits properly (or else they tend to cut into the rubber), and that the rubber washers stay in place/shape. If you find the right size/material you can just make your own....it's about $0.10 worth of material.

February 23rd, 2011, 16:11	#20
bareass Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Windsor Ontario	ok, i get it. so just like in offroading, you need to pick your weak point. in a jeep, super strong ujoints and axles will cause the breaking point to be moved into the diff, or drive shaft. so a weaker (by comparison) ujoint is used to keep breakages cheap and easily fixed. so if i were to run propane with buffers, and perhaps add some epoxy to the front of a plastic slide. the weak point will be the slide. correct. this would let the slide break before say the frame or hop up, while being strong enough to run for a long enough time. a replacement plastic slide is cheap, and readily available. ... would this work, or am i missing something?

using duster

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