AEG jamming from time to time.

[coach]

the 9.6v 1600mah should pull that thing all day. I ran a 9.6v 1400mah mini all day at FR earlier this month pulling a drop in G&P M120 mechbox in my m4 with no issues. using a JG motor I got packaged with a JG box.

unless you are using a significantly heavier spring or have a bad battery, I suspect the motor is bad. Renegade) had this exact issue not too long ago. swapped motors and good to go.

[Azathoth]

Originally Posted by Shooting Addict

If the gearbox isn't upgraded unless it's a Real Sword or a PTW or somthing the 11.1v lipo will destroy your internals stick to a 7.2 for lipos

I don't believe you are suppose to run lipo on a PTW the circuit boards require 12v or 9.6v.

LiPo CAN destroy your internals. I am running 7.4 1800 mah 25c lipo on my bone stock TM P90 gearbox (switched to deans, TM motor) going on 1 year, not even opened the box. No scarring on the trigger contacts. Just don't use 11.1v+ without considering the possible damage.

[deejko]

I'm running on a VFC EG1300 motor and a reinforced Gearbox with an m130 spring (cca 420FPS). Also I have a mosfet a friend made.

[coach]

Swap the motor out for a known working motor and give it a try.

[m102404]

Originally Posted by Shooting Addict

If the gearbox isn't upgraded unless it's a Real Sword or a PTW or somthing the 11.1v lipo will destroy your internals stick to a 7.2 for lipos

no offense...but that's complete bullsh*t

Originally Posted by Azathoth

I don't believe you are suppose to run lipo on a PTW the circuit boards require 12v or 9.6v.

LiPo CAN destroy your internals. I am running 7.4 1800 mah 25c lipo on my bone stock TM P90 gearbox (switched to deans, TM motor) going on 1 year, not even opened the box. No scarring on the trigger contacts. Just don't use 11.1v+ without considering the possible damage.

Power is power...LiPo, NiMH, NiCd...electricity is electricity. PTW's require 25-30A per shot (older vs. new). Your battery has to be able to supply that consistently and every time the system demands it. Some stock tube LiPo's can't really reliably supply that (the little KA 11.1/1100/15C doesn't even come close)

The 12v vs. 9.6V are for different springs/cylinders....black to gold is ok with 9.6v...Red and up are 12v. That's just to provide enough power to crank the spring...the circuits will still draw 30A.

[deejko]

Today I gave my batteries a full charge, 2BBs later the same thing happens, try to hold auto for 2 seconds, semi for 2 seconds, took my battery out and it was HOT, and i mean really really really f****** hot, my deans connectors were hot, my mosfet was hot, everything was just hot (i could hold my battery in my hand for a couple of minutes).

Today I'm going to buy a better charger, now i have a regular charger for airsoft (cheap), and it took 6hours to charge 8cell 1600mah battery on 500mah setting.
This is my charger:

[coach]

Dude. Everything heating up means you have a short. It's not the battery or charger. Don't waste your money

[Spawn28]

Battery HOT = Shorted Wiring, Reversed Wiring. Bad ground , possibly even broken wire arcing out Or the Gearbox is Jammed and your holding the trigger down for too long. im actually suprised you havnt blown a fuse yet

[m102404]

In general...if your AEG doesn't shoot when you pull the trigger...pulling the trigger more won't help.

Possible issues (trying to put it in order from simplest/cheapest to more involved)

1. Bad battery
- get a known good battery charged up by a known good charger from a buddy
- buy good batteries...Intellect, GP, Sanyo...green/blue no-name ones are CRAP
- buy a good digital smart charger

2. Toasted motor
- when your motor gets hot, the magnets in it will degrade (less power)...they don't get stronger (or back to as strong as they were) when it cools down
- swap the motor with a buddies known good motor

3. Mechbox
* could be a broken tooth on the gears or mangled piston
* could be a burned out switch/contacts (that's my guess after an iffy Batt/Motor)
* could be the spring is jamming up with the piston
* could be the wiring is damaged by all the over heating...in which case you're better off re-wiring the mechbox altogether
* could be bad shimming...but maybe/maybe not if it was shooting fine before these issues happened

#1 and #2 you can easily do yourself with a bit of help from a buddy. If you get to #3 and don't want to tear into it...find a good gun doc.

[deejko]

This is so weird. I do not believe the problem lies in the wiring since an electrical engineer rechecked all my connectors and wires. They are fine, and they are conducting just fine.

I still believe the problem is in the batteries/charger. I mean cmmon 6hours to charge a 1600mah NiMh battery on 500mah cycle rate? This should take max 3hours if the battery would be almost completely empty. It could overcharge it (some charger malfunction) so that it had more Voltage as needed.

Because just now, i switched my batteries (same type same manufacterer, but half charged) and it performed like it should, with no overheating.

Maybe because it cannot turn the gears, all of the excess energy is transfered to the motor and through wires/mosfet back to the battery and this is why they overheated?

m102404; thanks for all the solutions BUT if it was a piston/tooth problem, I do not believe that it would fire again. I'm no gearbox expert, but:

When it stops firing, I usualy take the battery out (today was the first time it got so hot) and leave the AEG as it is. Now when i switch the batteries or connect a fully charged battery, the AEG is firing just as it should.
If it was a broken tooth or a bad piston, would it not stop firing completely? I'm asking because i do not know.

[m102404]

Usually if something inside is broken it'll stop and not work any more...

But the gears don't always start in the same place inside the mechbox...so depending on where they were starting from (say all the teeth are engaging fine at that start point), they may turn at speed and skip past a broken tooth...then if the broken tooth is at the start of a cycle, it might catch/bind and not shoot. It's likely though that even swapping out a battery will not cycle it.

A partially broken tooth on a piston might work fine in semi if your MOSFET has AB and you're shooting in semi...the piston is likely to be engaged at the same start point for each cycle. On full auto, depending on how well your mechbox is working/cycling, you could end up with one of the sector teeth "topping" out on a damaged tooth and jamming it motionless. Worn teeth on pistons and sector gears are very common...it's what eventually happens to all setups if something doesn't break. As long as the teeth are engaging OK-enough, it may still cycle though.

Regardless of the cause of the stoppage...when the mechbox "locks", the power draw from the motor (as it continues to try hard to torque through) will result in everything in the system getting really hot. Once batteries, motors, wiring get overheated...they are less efficient or sometimes permanently damaged. Compromised batteries that can't supply adequate voltage or weakend motors that aren't powerfull enough to cycle the system while operating within their normal operating range will simply overtax other parts of the system. It'd be better if these parts just died outright...but often they seem to work, sort-of, kind-of, not really.

Might sound complicated...but it boils down to:
- doesn't shoot = stop, think
- try a known good fully charged battery, on semi, full trigger pull, don't hold for more than a full trigger pull and release
- try a different motor...same firing style, semi, simple regular trigger pull and release
- look to mechbox wiring and internals

(that's why I mentioned the mechbox as the 3rd item)

[coach]

Originally Posted by deejko

Because just now, i switched my batteries (same type same manufacterer, but half charged) and it performed like it should, with no overheating.


When it stops firing, I usualy take the battery out (today was the first time it got so hot) and leave the AEG as it is. Now when i switch the batteries or connect a fully charged battery, the AEG is firing just as it should.
If it was a broken tooth or a bad piston, would it not stop firing completely? I'm asking because i do not know.

sorry. trying to understand you. so you have tried a different battery and it works fine? so what's the issue? use the good battery.

[deejko]

I think it's the cheap charger.
coachster: No both batteries (intellect) when chargered on this particular charger do this.

Just ran 3mid caps through it with no pause, switching from single to auto, like m102404 said, with no problems. I really believe it's the charger's fault.

The only thing i noticed was that the pistolgrip got a bit warm, but I hear that's the common problem when running a VFC EG 1300 (it was a tad warm).