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Old March 8th, 2010, 17:29   #1
Desmodus
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Ak105 sbr

Im thinking of turning my AK105 into an SBR (if that is even.. the right designation for it?)

Im just wondering if anyone knows the name of the flashider that this gentleman has on his 105.

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Old March 8th, 2010, 17:38   #2
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noveske

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/catalogse...oveske&x=0&y=0
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Old March 8th, 2010, 17:40   #3
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From what I can see, the flash hider looks like Madbull's Flashhider/sound amplifier :
http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...fier_CW_BK.htm
I also know that King Arms makes one like it aswell,
http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol..._14mm_CCW_.htm
hope that helps

*Edit* Damn beat to it!
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Old March 8th, 2010, 17:41   #4
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The AK-102/104/105 are SBR (Short Barreled Rifle -- any rifle with a barrel length under 16" by BATF rules) versions of the 101/103/74M by default... what exactly do you plan on doing to it?

The "flash hider" (it isn't) is a Bulgarian AR-SF muzzle brake (which get used on Bulgarian AK-104/105s): a copy of it was made by Noveske as the KFH (predecessor to the KX3) and you'll find airsoft versions of it under that name.

I used the Dboys one (from EB) on mine, big heavy piece of metal without the Noveske trademarks and it has the clocking notch on it for the AK sight.

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Old March 8th, 2010, 17:45   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake View Post
The AK-102/104/105 are SBR (Short Barreled Rifle -- any rifle with a barrel length under 16" by BATF rules) versions of the 101/103/74M by default... what exactly do you plan on doing to it?

The "flash hider" (it isn't) is a Bulgarian AR-SF muzzle brake (which get used on Bulgarian AK-104/105s): a copy of it was made by Noveske as the KFH (predecessor to the KX3) and you'll find airsoft versions of it under that name.

I used the Dboys one (from EB) on mine, big heavy piece of metal without the Noveske trademarks and it has the clocking notch on it for the AK sight.

I'm pretty much wanting to replicate exactly what that guy has in the picture I posted, minus the magazine.
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Old March 8th, 2010, 17:54   #7
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Get a KFH, use the lower half of the G&P railed handguard for AKs (or equivalent clone -- which is a copy of the Command Arms Accessories railed handguard the guy in the pic appears to be using) and the KA or CYMA railed gas tube (which is a copy of the Ultimak railed gas tube he's using)


edit: or what Ancorp posted :P he beat me to it haha


edit #2: actually don't get that T1, it can't be adjusted properly... pay the extra $20 and get the other one
http://www.ebairsoft.com/micro-scope-mount-p-1909.html
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Old March 8th, 2010, 17:57   #8
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Sweet. Thanks for the advice/links guys.
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Old March 8th, 2010, 18:05   #9
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Another thing to keep in mind from experience:

The CYMA's barrel isn't held particularly well (the only thing holding it in is the small pin that screws into the side of the rear sight block) and the design of the gun relies on the gas tube being attached to the prong that extends from the rear sight block in order to keep the front of the gun relatively rigid.

In order to install the railed gas tube you have chop off that prong (the gas tube bolts on to the barrel) which means everything forward of the rear sight block is mounted to the barrel only. This creates a very wobbly barrel/front end (i.e., there's noticeable play). Be prepared to do some serious shimming and other minor mods/hacks if you want to get your front end rigid again.
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Old March 8th, 2010, 18:11   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake View Post
Another thing to keep in mind from experience:

The CYMA's barrel isn't held particularly well (the only thing holding it in is the small pin that screws into the side of the rear sight block) and the design of the gun relies on the gas tube being attached to the prong that extends from the rear sight block in order to keep the front of the gun relatively rigid.

In order to install the railed gas tube you have chop off that prong (the gas tube bolts on to the barrel) which means everything forward of the rear sight block is mounted to the barrel only. This creates a very wobbly barrel/front end (i.e., there's noticeable play). Be prepared to do some serious shimming and other minor mods/hacks if you want to get your front end rigid again.
To install the X47 on my 105 I had to do just about the same, but instead I only had to mill off a quarter of an inch or so off both sides of the "prong" to fit the screws through.

Was this the same design on the railed gas tube?
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Old March 8th, 2010, 18:47   #11
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You mean this pin?





Its a real bitch to take out. The hole on the opposite end is realllly tiny. I noticed my front site is slightly off to the right.. so I guess I'd need to push this pin out and adjust the front site accordingly. The muzzle brake seems to be glued on too, I push the small pin on it down but it doesn't budge...
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Old March 8th, 2010, 18:56   #12
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it's real easy to take out, just find a small enough screw driver, stick it in, and hammer it out.
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Old March 9th, 2010, 01:31   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake View Post
Which railed gas tube + RAS did you use, the KA one?
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Old March 19th, 2010, 01:17   #14
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Sorry to bring back an old topic.. I figured it was better posting here than starting a new thread.

I having a HUGE problem with removing the handguards on this 105. I don't know if I'm just retarded.. or I have horrible observation skills or something. I removed the pin in the front sight and twisted the flash hider off, then removed the 24mm threading to reveal the normal 14mm threading underneath that. After all this... I can't figure out how to remove the handguards, they just dont.. budge.

Arthraxis and I spent like twenty-five minutes trying to figure out a way to make it move. Nothing seems to move at all. What am I not doing right here? Im just hoping to at least get the lower part of the handguard off so I can put a railed one instead. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old March 19th, 2010, 01:29   #15
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You just slide off the entire front sight block forward after you get the pin out. There's nothing else to it
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