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September 23rd, 2013, 13:11 | #1 |
DBoys M4 AEG trigger problem
So yesterday I came back from a 6 hour outdoor game, I took my AEG M4 out my bag to test it, and found that semi-auto would not fire properly.
I pulled the trigger once, and only after a few short seconds, I heard a click and then my M4 fired. Even when it fired it sounded weak, like when your battery is about to run out. I switched to full auto and then that worked just fine, but even then there seemed to be a delay before it fired. So I went ahead and charged my 1200Mah battery for about 2 hours 30 min. I fired and semi-auto again, and... nothing. I fired full auto, that worked perfectly. So I kept switching between semi and full auto, and found that my semi-auto started to work. There was still a delay between the time I pull the trigger and the time semi-auto would work. So I kept switching between semi, full and even safe, until I thought my semi was working perfectly... and it did. Now this morning neither semi or full auto are working again. A few times, if I hold the AEG upside down and hold down the trigger for some time, full auto with work, but only for a second or so. I contacted Airsoft Depot, where I bought my AEG from, and they want to charge me $40 for repairs. So I'm wondering if I should just open my AEG myself and see if there is anything wrong with the trigger, before I spend $$$ for something I could repair myself with anyone's help here. |
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September 23rd, 2013, 13:32 | #2 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Might be selector switch, might be motor leads are loose. Take your grip end plate off and make sure the motor leads are on there tight
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September 23rd, 2013, 14:42 | #3 |
You mean the black and red wires connected to the bottom of the motor? I noticed the red wire plug was definitely sticking out a bit. So I pushed down both the red and black wires to make sure they were on tight. Closed the end plate, fired semi, nothing, fired full-auto, fired once then stopped working again. Opened the bottom of the grip again, unplugged and then plugged both the black and red wires, closed up my grip again. Tried firing both semi and full auto, and nothing happened this time.
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September 23rd, 2013, 15:13 | #4 |
Mr. Silencer
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What make/model is this gun?
EDIT: I'm an idiot. says in the title. Last edited by Stealth; September 23rd, 2013 at 15:20.. |
September 23rd, 2013, 15:18 | #5 |
September 23rd, 2013, 15:22 | #6 |
Mr. Silencer
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Can you define "not working"? Is it making noise of any kind when you pull the trigger? Or none at all?
If no sound whatsoever, then you have a disconnect in the wire (as coach said, probably at the motor connectors). Does your trigger feel "blocked"? |
September 23rd, 2013, 15:30 | #7 | |
Quote:
Since I've already check out the wires at the bottom of the grip, should I go ahead and remove the grip completely and see what else I can find wrong? |
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September 23rd, 2013, 15:52 | #8 |
Mr. Silencer
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The motor connectors should be snug against the terminal when you're plugging them in.
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September 23rd, 2013, 16:34 | #9 |
Okay, I think I found a problem with the wiring. Is there anyway I can replace these wires myself?
Last edited by TJX; September 23rd, 2013 at 16:37.. |
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September 23rd, 2013, 16:38 | #10 |
Mr. Silencer
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Has this gun ever been opened? Or did it come like that from the factory?
To answer your question - Yes and no. You could wrap that in electrical tape and/or cut the wire and re-solder it, but that's really sloppy. |
September 23rd, 2013, 16:42 | #11 | |
Quote:
Can I reconnect these to the motor and test the current wires with electrical tape with the grip still open? |
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September 23rd, 2013, 16:49 | #12 |
Mr. Silencer
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Here are your issues in no particular order:
That red wire was folded and pinched when the grip was installed. Check for insulation fraying The black wire is obviously damaged, but unless it's actually cut, it'll still carry current, wrap with electrical tape or shrink-wrap it. If it's cut, you could ghetto solder it back together and wrap it... Without the motor in the grip, you can plug the connectors into the motor and just pull the trigger - if you have good electrical flow, your motor should spin, and you can theoretically re-install. Me personally, I would replace all the wiring with 16awg milspec wire in continuous lengths and shrink-wrap everything properly. Keep in mind that the electrical efficiency of your gun decreases with each solder joint you add to it. Last edited by Stealth; September 23rd, 2013 at 16:52.. |
September 23rd, 2013, 16:51 | #13 |
Will replacing these wire require opening my gearbox?
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September 23rd, 2013, 16:52 | #14 |
Mr. Silencer
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Yes.
But DBoys internals are pretty janky anyway so it might be a good time to do some upgrades... |
September 23rd, 2013, 17:00 | #15 |
Well I have been meaning to buy a new gearbox with the quick spring change function... so you think my money is best spent on a brand new high quality gearbox than a couple of replacement wires?
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