My AEG suddenly stopped working???

[Knocturnal]

In fact, I let my buddy shoot my ER25K, he said that the selector was likely between semi and auto when he pulled the trigger. He came to me and said that nothing was happening when he was pulling the trigger, so I first thought battery. I slipped in a fully charged battery and nothing was happening when pulling the trigger. I then thought fuse, but the ER25K doesn't have a fuse. What can the problem possibly be? Pulling the trigger literally has no effect, as if the battery power was going no where, but the wires seem fine.

[dice]

Check the Motor Connection?

[Cortexburn]

Check your motor leads, they sometimes come off the terminals.

[ccyg8774]

Check if anything is warmer/hotter than usual...

[m102404]

Easiest to harder..
1. What Cortexburn said...take the base plate off the grip...ensure the terminals are plugged in. You can also take the motor out...reconnect the terminals and pull the trigger. If it spins...it's getting power and you've got a problem somewhere else (although I bet it doesn't because otherwise you would have gotten a really hot motor or some kind of thunk with a trigger pull).

*NOTE...once past (or close) to semi....it doesn't matter what position the selector is in. It'll shoot semi up to a certain point and then go into full. Being halfway inbetween doesn't do anything harmful.

2. If the motor doesn't get any power...then the issues is somewhere along the electrical path.
- check the battery/wiring connections...press the wires back into the connectors...when connected, press the wires together. If you get power then your connectors have loosened up...repair/replace.
- if it's not those two (and if you really don't have a fuse...one guy said he didn't but really did, he just didn't know was was in the little black plastic tube)....then you're into removing the mechbox and checking out the switch/wiring.

Look for...
- little metal post that sits behind the switch block (little block that's attached with a spring and is pushed into the electrical fins)....if it's broken, the block will sit back too far and your trigger won't pick it up. Full trigger movement....but no action/power. If that's the case...get a new mechbox shell or mechbox or repair it with a pin. It's not your buddy's fault...it's just dumb luck (but you can legit say he owes you a beer).
- burned out metal fins in the switch...if they're black, they're burnt. Replace the switch...consider a MOSFET...etc...
- a gear has chewed the wiring...replace wiring harness
- a broken gear tooth has jammed everything (probably not the case since the motor would spin in the above tests)
- the piston is jammed (probably not the case)

Best of luck

[Rusty Lugnuts]

does it do it on full auto as well as semi?

[Knocturnal]

I did the the cover off from under the grip, the connections seemed fine. I have explored further because I have not yet taken my gun completely apart. I am under the impressions that if it were something or anything related to the gear box, I would at least hear some noise coming from the AEG when pulling the trigger. I did make sure that the connection pins were fully pushed in so i can rule that out. I will look further into taking the motor our and making sure everything is fine at that level. I will post once that is done.

[IggysPiggy]

Check the connector at the battery as well, if its tamyia sometimes the connectors aren't always seated correct. Really an ohms meter would help.

[kalnaren]

Could also be the trigger contacts. G36's have a tendency for those to widen and stop conducting.

[lurkingknight]

Does the gun respond at all in full auto? Maybe he released the trigger before a cycle completed and jammed the gearbox and the motor doesn't have enough current/torque to pull it over on semi. Sometimes full auto will pull it off the dead spot.

Short of taking apart the gun, that's all you can do in addition to what these guys have said.

[Rusty Lugnuts]

Originally Posted by Rusty Lugnuts

does it do it on full auto as well as semi?

Once again we're on the same page.

[Knocturnal]

There is no response on semi nor auto. I've never taken a gear box apart, and I really wouldn't know what I was looking at, so I will look into some youtube videos. Though I am starting to think that the motor might be shot. I removed the motor, checked the connections, took the gearbox out and checked to see if anything looked burnt or if wires were sectioned, and from the outside everything looks A1...

[lurkingknight]

just take your time pulling the gearbox out... make sure you open the anti reverse latch before you try to open the gearbox... this takes tension off the main spring and helps prevent gearbox parts assplosion. Some v2s have an access cutout you can get to when you take the pistol grip off. open the gearbox in a pillowcase or something your first couple times, just so everything stays localized if it assplodes.

[Rusty Lugnuts]

A multimeter can be had for like $20, if you don't have one you shouldn't try to diagnose electrical issues -Plain and simple- Once you get to your motor connections, you can put the battery back in pull the trigger and immediately know if powers getting thru to the motor. You can check to see if there are breaks in your wires, you can check resistance thru your trigger and tell what shape your contacts are. I recommend you get a multimeter and quit guessing

[Knocturnal]

I'm an electrician so I feel comfortable for the electrical side. Taking the gearbox apart has already made me take several steps ahead to understanding how everything works. My gearbox sits beside me as we speak, I haven't fully put it back together, but from what I can diagnose, there are no problems at all within the gearbox itself, where the trigger contacts are perfectly fine as is the wiring. I can only presume that my motor is shot. Tomorrow I will put everything back together and in the best case re-sitting everything will hopefully have fixed the issue, if not I will look into a new motor or meet with a gun doctor and see what he says.