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Tanio Koba / KJW M4 GBBR Basic Information and FAQ

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Old March 25th, 2014, 11:50   #931
TG211
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamroxorz View Post
What email do you guys use to contact KJW, I tried emailing them, but the email kept returning to me saying it doesn't work. I need a new valve knocker spring, Part #73
Use this one : kjworks@ms47.hinet.net

Always works for me.
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Old March 25th, 2014, 13:42   #932
Jamroxorz
Jamroz
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Brampton Ontario
Awesome thanks, it worked!
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Old March 25th, 2014, 19:39   #933
TG211
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
No problems, Jamroxorz, always the best to tap at the source.

Anyway, about my problem, nevermind, I found out what the hell this was. The trick I've used to reduce the FPS worked "too" well. After returning the normal valve, it was back beyond 400fps. Then I filed some self made rubber spacer (like on the cradle valve, only more economic) and put it back.

I'm not sure yet if it works, it's too late in France to test fire at this hour, so I'll come back with the results later this week to tell if it worked. And if it works, well, then save some money and try it instead of buying the Cradle overpriced thingy !
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Old March 25th, 2014, 22:59   #934
audi_bhoy
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Trois-Rivières
Cradle is useful when you play from 10 to 30 Celcius temperature ranges, of course a modified stock valve will do too, you only have to restrain the gas flow and it's done. I've drawn a 3D version of the valve, but never came around on having it milled... Wanted to do preset fps valves kit lol
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Old March 26th, 2014, 06:50   #935
TG211
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
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Originally Posted by audi_bhoy View Post
Cradle is useful when you play from 10 to 30 Celcius temperature ranges, of course a modified stock valve will do too, you only have to restrain the gas flow and it's done. I've drawn a 3D version of the valve, but never came around on having it milled... Wanted to do preset fps valves kit lol
That sounds like it would have been a good idea. It's a delicate thing, those valves...

OK, to illustrate what I first did (and that didn't work), I've used this trick from a french GBB forum board : http://forum.gbb-technics.fr/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=526 (It's the second to last post, with links to pictures)

I guess it good for V1 bolts, but the V2 is a little narrower in the nozzle, and after a look, I understood why I had such low fps, yet still felt a pretty decent kick : the small plumbing O-ring is too big and sealed the gaz-route toward the front of the bolt and the gaz would have no choice but to go in the back before leaving.

Now I've trimmed (or filed ? unsure about the english here...) this o-ring, and the valve is free to move on the spring again. I'm really impatient to try it ASAP ! I have hopes I managed a decent job on this, or else, I'll have to get the cradle valve, and nowhere to find in Europe. I have to order it from North America, and the postage+tax end up at the same (or more) price as the product itself...
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Old March 27th, 2014, 06:38   #936
TG211
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Sorry for the double-post, but since I have updates, it's better to post to share than to let the tip unnoticed in an edition of my above post.

OK, my idea worked ! Alright, it's not a regular solution and the FPS are fluctuating between 330 and 350 FPS (with peaks at 420FPS), and that was my goal. I guess the power peaks are due to the modified o-ring not being regular and smooth. It's homemade with whatever I could use, so it's not perfect, but it's playable !

80EUR saved ! Sorry, Cradle, I've found a way to not require being robbed by you !

Unless you guys are perfctionnists (and that's often a good trait !), it can do if you're cautious with your expenses. Cradle's system offers regularity in the FPS and it's reliable. North Americans can get it easily, but if people from somewhere else in the world want a cheap trick because they don't want to spend too much on postage from the US, use my idea.

All you need is the stock valve and one (or more if you need less fps) size #4 o-ring with dimensions : 4,9 x 8,7 x 1,9 mm. Don't forget to file them a little so they wouldn't block the valve due to a larger diameter.

Et voilÃ* !

Greetings from France !
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Old March 27th, 2014, 11:55   #937
daishi
 
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Or just buy the cradle O rings for 5 bucks.....and have reliable fps. You do NOT need the cradle valve...just put the O-rings on your stock valve and you're good to go.
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This is one of the funniest things I've read.
Commandment 1 of LMGesus: Fuck getting kills. That's the job of your teammates, otherwise known as the cannon fodder. Your job is to be scary.
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Old March 27th, 2014, 12:25   #938
TG211
 
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Or just buy the cradle O rings for 5 bucks.....and have reliable fps. You do NOT need the cradle valve...just put the O-rings on your stock valve and you're good to go.
...

You do know that you have very excellent ideas ?! I'll have to check the freight cost but it should be so small it'd be worthier than my waste of time effort... Oh well, at least I had fun crafting my own stuff.

Thanks a lot for the tip !

EDIT : Forget it... On the Cradle Airsoft site, shipping for France is $23.95 ! The hell ?

Last edited by TG211; March 27th, 2014 at 12:28..
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Old March 28th, 2014, 20:31   #939
audi_bhoy
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Trois-Rivières
Maybe you could get someone you know to craft a similar valve for you, I know France has great technologies in milling and turning, I went on a student trip and we were teamed up with a school at Figeac who did have very nice 5-axes machines
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Old March 28th, 2014, 22:18   #940
boy2chukoy
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
hop up problem

Hi can anyone show me a picture of hop up done with a shrink wrap.thanks
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Old March 30th, 2014, 21:22   #941
Mackie
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sherbrooke, Québec
Hi, I got myself a new V2 KJW M4 and it shoot at 290FPS with propane and 0,20g BB (original valve and blue R-tech hop-up). It cycle fine, but I would like to know why and maybe again some fps since I intent to shoot 0,25g BB.

Thanks

Last edited by Mackie; March 30th, 2014 at 21:30..
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Old March 30th, 2014, 23:11   #942
audi_bhoy
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Trois-Rivières
Make sure the hop-up is at zero position, and 290 fps is kind of similar to when using a cradle velocity reducer with it's own o-ring instead of the smaller stock o-ring. Maybe try it with the stock hop-up rubber perhaps, I prefer the stock rubber over the RA-Tech for mine.
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Old March 31st, 2014, 07:05   #943
Mackie
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sherbrooke, Québec
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Originally Posted by audi_bhoy View Post
Make sure the hop-up is at zero position, and 290 fps is kind of similar to when using a cradle velocity reducer with it's own o-ring instead of the smaller stock o-ring. Maybe try it with the stock hop-up rubber perhaps, I prefer the stock rubber over the RA-Tech for mine.
I tried it and gave me similar results
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Old March 31st, 2014, 15:25   #944
TG211
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by audi_bhoy View Post
Maybe you could get someone you know to craft a similar valve for you, I know France has great technologies in milling and turning, I went on a student trip and we were teamed up with a school at Figeac who did have very nice 5-axes machines
Oh I've read about a french guy making his own valve. A masterpiece. Unfortunately, he doesn't produce them anymore...

And I just need to work out the rubber o-rings more smoothly. I things the irregularities in FPS come from the fact it's not not exactly even...
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 09:00   #945
TG211
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Hello guys today.

I've got a short question. The RA-Tech rubber (blue) hop up I got when I bought second-hand my M4 seems to start to get tired, so I'm thinking of replacing it soon.

I've heard the stock rubber (black) is just as good. What you think ? Since I'm ordering a bunch of parts from KJ Works, I'm wondering if I should order it one too.

Thanks for your feedback !
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