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Systema PTW Basic Info and FAQ

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Old September 1st, 2013, 11:55   #286
ThunderCactus
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It looks like someone used a MIAD end plate on an MOE grip
Just look at brad's FCC 416 review
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Old September 1st, 2013, 11:57   #287
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Systema PTW Basic Info and FAQ

Ok, if My research are right, the ptw bb choice will be : between .25 and .28 ( .30 some mags have problems to feed ) and no bio-bbs in a ptw.

Any brand to avoid ? Or whats your brand of choice

Thank's
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Old September 1st, 2013, 12:11   #288
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i use .3g in my PTW with awesome results!
used to use BBBastards, but after i moved to Alberta i had to switch as no Bastards are sold here. Currently using Green Devils in .3g they are BIO and I have had no isses with them. getting them isnt to bad, just a 3 hr motorcycle ride to Red Deer, or get Azathoth to bring a bag to a game.... speaking of which im low on BBs
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Old September 1st, 2013, 12:57   #289
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Splatter paintball carries bb bastards

I use bbb exclusively. Occasionally I'm forced to use devils. My preferred weight it .30 with .28 a close second depending on engagement distance. I personally prefer bbb bios myself
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a Systema PTW is like KD, where the noodles are plated in gold and the cheese sauce is actually a pool of hot naked women.
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Old September 1st, 2013, 13:07   #290
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Pry and i did a test with .28s and .30s in my gun and the results were amazing, the .3s flew straight even with a cross wind, the .28s looked like .20s the way they flew off in the wind. I will never go lighter than .3 for outdoors
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Old September 1st, 2013, 13:09   #291
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if you and a bunch of friends order together you can save alot on shipping and perhaps get a discount if you can get in contact with a distributer.

i also strictly run Bio-bastards however my preference is .28g with a heavier .3g on windy days. Vanarras mags seem to have weaker springs and are less likely to appreciate .3g bb's. However good condition systema mags will push .3g bbs well.

another advantage of systema mags are they are easier to clean and reuse. there are small parts that are easily lost so find someone that has done it before so you don't lose parts that are hard to get ahold of. even with supervision i've lost small parts so be very careful
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Old September 1st, 2013, 15:22   #292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
It looks like someone used a MIAD end plate on an MOE grip
Just look at brad's FCC 416 review
saw this pic on mcguyver's review. Exactly what I wanted to do, just wasn't sure if it could be done. In gap look fine and I will drill even more around the mounting screws. Doubt that any dirt or water would ever get into motor.

If you look at the AEG MOE grips, they have lots of holes for ventilation.
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File Type: jpg MOE PTW.jpg (60.2 KB, 4 views)
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Old September 1st, 2013, 15:43   #293
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saw this pic on mcguyver's review. Exactly what I wanted to do, just wasn't sure if it could be done. In gap look fine and I will drill even more around the mounting screws. Doubt that any dirt or water would ever get into motor.

If you look at the AEG MOE grips, they have lots of holes for ventilation.
You must be joking because nobody worth his salt with tools would ever say something like that with a straight face.

Water is the enemy of a motor. So is debris, sand, dirt, even dust. Magnetic debris is even worse. There is no way you can keep it out of a motor with an open grip like that. AEG motors have their magnets inside a steel cage, and the armature is more or less sealed up. In a PTW, it is the opposite.

I can promise you I have worked on more PTW motors than you and 10 friends have ever seen. I can tell you how and why they fail, and this is one reason.

The motor must be sealed insid the grip. This is how the gun was designed, and deviation from this design is a gun killer. Plain and simple.
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Old September 1st, 2013, 15:57   #294
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I won't dispute your reasons, but I have my own.

I raced off-road RC cars in the 80s with brushed motors till the industry switched over to brushless motors. These are open end bells and some with cut out around the motor cans. We run these off-road cars in dirt, dust and even in light rain. After a race we can tap the side of the can and see dirt fall out. Never had one fail to those elements. Motors that trap the heat in will fad power as they heated up and eventually died.

The the motor technology in the AEG and PTW are not even advance as the ones in RC cars. We are now racing brushless for many years, and yet the airsoft guns are still brushed.

Run the grip off a PTW and feel the head from the armature after 50 some shots, it is very hot to touch. You need to get rid of that heat not trap and seal it in the grip.
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File Type: jpg RC10 Brushed motor.jpg (78.5 KB, 9 views)

Last edited by SuperHog; September 1st, 2013 at 16:04..
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Old September 1st, 2013, 16:01   #295
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though it should be noted that airsoft guns do not run continuous so unless there is serious issue with your motor it should never get that heated. rc motors run 100% of the time after the battery is plugged in *for argument sake*. whereas a airsoft gun MIGHT run 5% of the time.

although the mechanics of the motors are similar, their use is 100% different.
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Old September 1st, 2013, 16:05   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperHog View Post
I won't dispute your reasons, but I have my own.

I raced off-road RC cars in the 80s with brushed motors till the industry switched over to brushless motors. These are open end bells and some with cut out around the motor cans. We run these off-road cars in dirt, dust and even in light rain. After a race we can tap the side of the can and see dirt fall out. Never had one fail to those elements. Motors that trap the heat in will fad power as they heated up and eventually died.

The the motor technology in the AEG and PTW are not even advance as the ones in RC cars. We are now racing brushless for many years, and yet the airsoft guns are still brushed.

Run the grip off a PTW and feel the head from the armature after 50 some shots, it is very hot to touch. You need to get rid of that heat not trap and seal it in the grip.
You are not going to dissipate the heat from a PTW motor by drilling holes in the endplate, or even leaving it open. Run a PTW for a few hundred thousand rounds and get back to me.

What you will do though is introduce debris that will kill it. You have never owned an RC motor as open as a PTW motor, nor with the tolerances between motor and grip, nor between motor components.

Your reasons are transplanted from irrelevant sources.
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Old September 1st, 2013, 17:52   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguyver View Post
You are not going to dissipate the heat from a PTW motor by drilling holes in the endplate, or even leaving it open. Run a PTW for a few hundred thousand rounds and get back to me.

What you will do though is introduce debris that will kill it. You have never owned an RC motor as open as a PTW motor, nor with the tolerances between motor and grip, nor between motor components.

Your reasons are transplanted from irrelevant sources.
How much debris is reality can get into the bottom of the grip.

Off-road RC motors are within inches to the dirt on the track and during a race, unless you are in front, your motor is eating dirt and dust during the whole race.

Unless you are dragging your PTW on the ground, the about of debris to damage it is not going to get in.

I will open up as much air flow to the motor in the grip and run it like that permanently. Unless the motor dies of natural causes which PTW motors are known for, I don't expect dirt and water to kill it. The other poor design from the beginning, two piece magnet frame design which allow for misalignment of the endbells.

Last edited by SuperHog; September 1st, 2013 at 18:02..
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Old September 1st, 2013, 19:22   #298
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Originally Posted by TokyoSeven
a Systema PTW is like KD, where the noodles are plated in gold and the cheese sauce is actually a pool of hot naked women.
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Old September 1st, 2013, 23:14   #299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguyver View Post
You are not going to dissipate the heat from a PTW motor by drilling holes in the endplate, or even leaving it open. Run a PTW for a few hundred thousand rounds and get back to me.

What you will do though is introduce debris that will kill it. You have never owned an RC motor as open as a PTW motor, nor with the tolerances between motor and grip, nor between motor components.

Your reasons are transplanted from irrelevant sources.
Sorry but the open frame motors you think PTW are using are so high tech are old stuff we used in the hobby days 18+ years ago.

Don't know why PTW never stayed with the AEG motors which are more reliable and uses a more rigid motor case. Why do you think FCC redesigned the frame on the V3.0 motor?

Today we use not just brushless but sensored brushless motors for RC which would be the best thing for airsoft gear boxes because a sensor knows the rotor position. The other plus why we went to brushless is..... cooler running motor, more power and longer battery life!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg open frame motor 01.jpg (4.8 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg open frame motor 02.jpg (8.4 KB, 2 views)

Last edited by SuperHog; September 2nd, 2013 at 00:16..
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Old September 2nd, 2013, 00:10   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguyver View Post
You must be joking because nobody worth his salt with tools would ever say something like that with a straight face.

Water is the enemy of a motor.
I raced on a national level with factory drivers and we all break in the brushes with the motor submerged in water.

How to break in a brushed RC car motor. - YouTube


Secret is, I do this for the AEG motors and the PTW motors. Why? Because they are brushed motors. Not a special motor engineered by the PTW gun maker.

In the RC world, brushed motors are "obsolete" because the brushed technology is no longer viable for competitive, and now Lipo with brushless rules. Not brushed motors with Lipo.

Last edited by SuperHog; September 2nd, 2013 at 00:27..
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