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July 25th, 2006, 16:18 | #1 |
Ka-Bar Knives
If theres anyone out there that knows anything about Knives, I was wondering if you could fill me in about the quality of Ka-Bar knives..
I just bought one for $120.00 Canadian. Im mainly planning on using it for camping (seeing as there is no gut hook for hunting). Any comments appreciated...Thnx |
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July 25th, 2006, 16:21 | #2 |
wtf wierdo
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July 25th, 2006, 16:24 | #3 | |
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July 25th, 2006, 16:25 | #4 |
Knives are known as 'gear'. Have this moved to the right section?
$120 is a bit much, like $40 too much. It is an excellent knife. Keep it cleaned, oiled and sharp. gunner, WTF to yourself. What is weird about getting a good knife? |
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July 25th, 2006, 16:30 | #5 | |
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July 25th, 2006, 17:55 | #6 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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I bought a used one for $60, reconditioned it and it's hair flinging sharp now (ass before me tried sharpening it with a bastard file......... well, you are what you use......... bastard!!!) The steel is good 1065 carbon steel, meaning it's easy to sharpen, holds an edge well, but will rust. I suggest you buy a good tool to hone the edge often, like a ceramic rod or something similar (case in point, I bought a CRKT M16 folder last year, good steel, I use it numerous times daily. It's never seen a stone, I use the bottom of a ceramic coffee mug to hone it, then finsih off with a few swips of my kitchen knife steel to finish the edge. Is as sharp as the day I bought it.) Avoid stones unless you are well experienced with them. Even if (as I am), I find ceramic to be a much better way to hone. Stones are meant for edge shaping. Simple honing is much easier to do, and doesn't remove material from the edge.
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July 25th, 2006, 23:38 | #7 | |
Official ASC News Anchor
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A sword maker I buy from regularly recommends using baby oil to protect the blade, because of it's low sulfur content.
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Countdown to D-Day Click For chinko Quote:
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July 25th, 2006, 23:49 | #8 | |
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Yes - you should use a protectant -- I use CLP because its always available |
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July 26th, 2006, 10:13 | #9 |
Baby oil has other stuff in it.
Some of the cheapest commonly available oils are greases that work fine are; silicone (we probably all have some of that), WD40, cosmoline, vaseline, motor oil, engine grease. For the greases, you just rub it in lightly. Greases and thicker oils are fantastic for high-carbon blades that have a phosphate or parkerizing type of finish. It penetrates the finish and protects. CLP, and various oils for real guns, are good too if you have that around. For sharpening, after trying diamond, ceramics, and so on I found a product similar to this http://premiumknives.com/ShopSite/Co...C_AC_8300.html It works so well it replaced all other methods I use. The product can be found under other brand names. It's simply a small piece of tool steel that you drag along the blade edge to hone, or push against the edge to sharpen by removing material or to remove nicks. No, I dont sell them, but man.... the thing works. |
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July 26th, 2006, 10:30 | #10 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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I just use silicon oil, because I have the stuff. And I use Dubbin or mink oil (whatever I have at hand) for my leather handle and sheath.
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July 26th, 2006, 10:59 | #11 |
Silicone oil on steel is fine. On a KaBar, engine oil does work. There are some oils that work better on other types of steels, but that is another story.
Most knives designed or meant for military use, like this one, do well with easy to find stuff. Every army has some form of engine oil and grease. If you have no oil or grease; use a rag and fine sand. Rub the blade until the dirt or stains are removed, and keep it dry. Yes, it will remove the finish and maybe cause small scratches, but it works if you have no other choices. |
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